I've been noticing some problems with the paint of my 2002 Focus SVT (red). The back-side panels of the car on both sides there are some odd circle like swirls throughout the panel on both sides. These seemed to apear after I tried some AIO on the car. Every since they seem to be an eye-sore when looking at the car at certain angles and light. The products I have for swirls are ScratchX and SSR2.0 that i just purchased. Also to add to this I dont' own a PC. I tried applying these products by hand, but seems like they hardly did **** to the swirls. Any suggestions?
Swirls from hell!!
- Thread starter porterror
- Start date
imported_flatstick
New member
I would suggest you borrow a friends pc if you can. using my pc with a polishing pad, Megiuars #80, AIO and Zaino I ended up with an awesome looking smooth finish on my 1992 Chevy pickup, the shine was outstanding and no swirls. one tip I have is to not let the AIO dry before wiping it off with a MF, seems like when it is totally dry it is a little bit of bugger to remove. hope you can use this advice good luck !
Accumulator
Well-known member
porterror- If you're gonna work by hand you might have to try a few different products to find something that is both effective and user-friendly. I'd try either the 1Z twins (Paint Polish and Metallic Polish) or the 3M PI-III twins (RC, 05933 and MG, 05937).
The Meg's #80 is a good choice if you want to do what you can with one polishing step.
When using Klasse, *I* use the 3M stuff.
The Meg's #80 is a good choice if you want to do what you can with one polishing step.
When using Klasse, *I* use the 3M stuff.
Accumulator, while Meguiar's calls its #80 a glaze, it seems that it is more abrasive than just that. The way I understood his post, flatstick applied AIO over the #80 and got good results. Won't the AIO negate the results produced by the #80? Not that I'm contesting his claim. I'm still in the learning process myself. What is more logical, AIO over 80 or 80 over AIO?
Assuming I use 80, then AIO, would I have any bonding issues if I apply a sealant (e.g. UPP) as an LSP? Any bonding issues as well if it's AIO, then 80, then UPP? Though I have been told not to use 80 over AIO (a rule which I do follow), I was wondering why.
Assuming I use 80, then AIO, would I have any bonding issues if I apply a sealant (e.g. UPP) as an LSP? Any bonding issues as well if it's AIO, then 80, then UPP? Though I have been told not to use 80 over AIO (a rule which I do follow), I was wondering why.
IMHO, AIO will remove everything it is put over, including itself. So, any fillers/oils left by previous products should be removed by the AIO and if previous products were masking/filling/hiding any blemishes in the paint, AIO will reveal them in all their "glory", and most likely enhance their appearance. For AIO and whatever follows to be at its best, the paint needs to be polished/repolished to the point of being virtually flawless. Flawless is the Autopian's "Holy Grail", so you will have to learn to live with SOME imprefections.
Having said all that, you cannot beat the K-twins for beautiful paint, outstand shine and superb protection. Given its 20 (?) year track record, why mess with anything else?
Hmmmm, maybe I need to change my signature.....
Having said all that, you cannot beat the K-twins for beautiful paint, outstand shine and superb protection. Given its 20 (?) year track record, why mess with anything else?
Hmmmm, maybe I need to change my signature.....
sQuashed
Lack of oxygen up here
groucho said:
No Bonding issues whatsoever if you do 80,AIO,LSP
:xyxthumbs AIO will clean up all the oil's left behind by #80 and the paint will be ready for any LSP you decide to throw at it.
a.k.a. Patrick
New member
80 isnt really much of a glaze, its real benefit is the degrading abrasives. Even though he doesnt have a PC, benefits can be had.
Actually 80 wasnt even mentioned by the original poster, that was Accums rec'o. And I agree with it. If you had problems after using AIO, theres your culprit, a dirty pad of some sort. ScratchX is more meant for smaller area repairs as it dries rather quickly, thats why you had some difficulty removing, SSR2 is nice, if you have a PC. When you own a PC, you open windows wide to new product usage. With the products you have, I'd give ssr2 another try, if the product hazes on you before youve had ample time to work it, just mist with water.....
Actually 80 wasnt even mentioned by the original poster, that was Accums rec'o. And I agree with it. If you had problems after using AIO, theres your culprit, a dirty pad of some sort. ScratchX is more meant for smaller area repairs as it dries rather quickly, thats why you had some difficulty removing, SSR2 is nice, if you have a PC. When you own a PC, you open windows wide to new product usage. With the products you have, I'd give ssr2 another try, if the product hazes on you before youve had ample time to work it, just mist with water.....
this is only on a small panel. There are about 2 complete swirls on the panel itself. The way i tried SSR2 was exactly like my liquid wax. Applied via applicator, waited a minute or two until slight haze then removed with microfiber towel. Is this not the right application process? Maybe thats my trouble
porterror said:
That's definitely the trouble. :scared
SSR2 (or any polish) is an abrasive polish, which requires you to work it in by rubbing it until it flashes, or goes oily, then wipe it off while wet. The same as ScratchX.
A polish micro-abrades the surface to remove defects so it requires lots on elbow grease.
so you saying, really rub the stuff into the swirls with pressure and lots of rubbing with microfiber. Then immediatly after this process, wipe it off with MF towel? or are you saying wait for dry then spray with water and wipe off?
As mentioned on scratchx at least, it even mentions same process as applying wax (WOWO), i believe.
As mentioned on scratchx at least, it even mentions same process as applying wax (WOWO), i believe.
Accumulator
Well-known member
porterror- Not having used SSR2 I'm gonna let someone like Alfisti recommend how to use it 
But generally you don't use polishes the way you use waxes. You work a polish until it's done its thing and then you wipe it right off before it's dry. Sometimes you end up working a polish until it disappears, but no, you don't end up with a dry layer of polish that you wipe off, that could induce new marring.
I thought you needed something stronger than the SSR2 and I figured the #80 was a decent recommendation. It *is* an abrasive polish (despite its name), but it leaves some stuff behind too. So if you want to use AIO in conjunction with #80, use the #80 *first*, then the AIO. But note that AIO might "uncover" some marring that the #80 didn't get out. If it's a problem, just use the #80 some more. #80 is easy to use correctly because it turns clear (or somewhat pink) when it's broken down. You work it until that happens, wipe it off, inspect your work, and repeat as needed.
But generally you don't use polishes the way you use waxes. You work a polish until it's done its thing and then you wipe it right off before it's dry. Sometimes you end up working a polish until it disappears, but no, you don't end up with a dry layer of polish that you wipe off, that could induce new marring.I thought you needed something stronger than the SSR2 and I figured the #80 was a decent recommendation. It *is* an abrasive polish (despite its name), but it leaves some stuff behind too. So if you want to use AIO in conjunction with #80, use the #80 *first*, then the AIO. But note that AIO might "uncover" some marring that the #80 didn't get out. If it's a problem, just use the #80 some more. #80 is easy to use correctly because it turns clear (or somewhat pink) when it's broken down. You work it until that happens, wipe it off, inspect your work, and repeat as needed.