Surprising SIP Discovery!!

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OCKlasse

New member
So those of you who may remember my screen name remember that my dad's Ferrari was TRASHED from the dealership after just ONE wash. Well, he didn't learn his lesson. He took his CL55 to Fletcher Jones, and low and behold they reintroduced him to swirl city.



I am currently without a buffer as I have sold off my PC and am awaiting my Flex. When he came home, I decided to try a little spot with SIP by hand. To my complete astonishment, the paint was brought to 95% perfection after just two passes! Mind you that this car has Ceramiclear!



Please excuse my poor iPhone photos, but you can somewhat make out the distinct difference between the two.



Before (I don't think they use water to wash their cars :nervous2:)



photo5.jpg




After (I know it's hard to make out, but you can tell in that the reflection of the light is clear and not hazed as in the first pic)



photo6.jpg
 
Thats pretty impressive, I would never think SIP by hand would come out like that. How long did it take you?
 
Did you wipe the area with prep-sol? (Not alcohol but actual body shop prep solvent). I think you might be suprised that most of those defects will return with one wipe down (maybe not, because I have never attempted this test on the MB paint, but I have on others and always had marring re-appear).
 
TH0001 said:
Did you wipe the area with prep-sol? (Not alcohol but actual body shop prep solvent). I think you might be suprised that most of those defects will return with one wipe down (maybe not, because I have never attempted this test on the MB paint, but I have on others and always had marring re-appear).
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Ya beat me to it. I have also heard of this ......
 
Kinda off-topic...



THOOO1 When you say not to use alcohol as a prep, why is that? I thought IPA was a great way to inspect your finish and prep it for sealants? What makes prep-sol better?



OCKlasse...has your dad learned yet? 2 cars in a row should be enough to convince him never to have the dealership sand his car down again.
 
I'm rather skeptical about this. It takes a couple minutes to properly work SIP with a PC, but you rubbed it by hand for a minute and removed all the defects in two passes? I think you need to take a second look after a wipe down as mentioned.
 
Grimm said:
I'm rather skeptical about this. It takes a couple minutes to properly work SIP with a PC, but you rubbed it by hand for a minute and removed all the defects in two passes? I think you need to take a second look after a wipe down as mentioned.
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Actually working in a small area & work the polish in properly, you can get good results removing defects by hand. In smaller areas, with pressure and speed you can create some heat and break down the polish quicker than you can with a PC....finishing by hand without marring/hazing, though is a bit more difficult.
 
blkyukon said:
Actually working in a small area & work the polish in properly, you can get good results removing defects by hand. In smaller areas, with pressure and speed you can create some heat and break down the polish quicker than you can with a PC....finishing by hand without marring/hazing, though is a bit more difficult.
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What does tempature have to do with the equation?
 
grease said:
Kinda off-topic...



THOOO1 When you say not to use alcohol as a prep, why is that? I thought IPA was a great way to inspect your finish and prep it for sealants? What makes prep-sol better?



OCKlasse...has your dad learned yet? 2 cars in a row should be enough to convince him never to have the dealership sand his car down again.
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Rydawg and I (amognst others) have noted that SIP, and more so 106ff, tend to require something more aggresive to remove the carriers from the paint (and reveal any defect masking). If you are going to use prep-sol, make sure you use it according to DuPonts directions.
 
I've been using SIP by hand on hard to reach places like door handle areas. It somewhat diminishes the swirling/light scratches and you have to work at it for a few minutes.
 
TH0001 said:
What does tempature have to do with the equation?
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Heat is actually an important component of polishing. Heat obviously aides polishing by softening the paint slightly, allowing the abrasives to do their job. In addition some abrasives require heat to properly break down; although with SIP that may not be the case.
 
brwill2005 said:
Heat is actually an important component of polishing. Heat obviously aides polishing by softening the paint slightly, allowing the abrasives to do their job. In addition some abrasives require heat to properly break down; although with SIP that may not be the case.
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Which abrasives do you know that require an increase in tempature to aid the breaking down process?



As far as warming the paint to allow defect removal, most experts in the field I have spoken too would agree that there is a correlation, though the difference in the hardness of paint between 80 degrees and 150 degrees would be very small and not noticable.



Heat is an UNWANTED by product of friction. In the old days, it was believed you could "reflow" lacquer by warming it enough, but it is sad to see some people perpetuate that myth today. Most products work better when warm, but this is a result of the carrier and not the abrasive.
 
Grimm said:
I'm rather skeptical about this. It takes a couple minutes to properly work SIP with a PC, but you rubbed it by hand for a minute and removed all the defects in two passes? I think you need to take a second look after a wipe down as mentioned.
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Trust me. I was just as skeptical as you were. I would not think that it would do what it did, but I swear it did.



I am going to attempt to do the whole car this week by hand. If I do, I will definitely take pics!
 
OCKlasse said:
Trust me. I was just as skeptical as you were. I would not think that it would do what it did, but I swear it did.



I am going to attempt to do the whole car this week by hand. If I do, I will definitely take pics!
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Do an alcohol or prep sol wipedown after, SIP fills more than you think when used by hand.
 
TH0001 said:
Which abrasives do you know that require an increase in tempature to aid the breaking down process?



As far as warming the paint to allow defect removal, most experts in the field I have spoken too would agree that there is a correlation, though the difference in the hardness of paint between 80 degrees and 150 degrees would be very small and not noticable.



Heat is an UNWANTED by product of friction. In the old days, it was believed you could "reflow" lacquer by warming it enough, but it is sad to see some people perpetuate that myth today. Most products work better when warm, but this is a result of the carrier and not the abrasive.
Click to expand...

Well, I believe some of the Hi-Temp line of levelers has heat reducing abrasives. In addition, I was under the impression that Menzerna PG has clustered abrasives that fracture with the aid of heat. I talked with a tech rep a Hi-Temp who told me the abrasives in their water based levelers need heat to help them work (Heavy and X-Treme Cut). This is why they need to be worked at higher speeds. If they are worked at too slow a speed they will actually leave more marring than at high speeds. Their solvent based levelers use the solvent to soften the paint. When we are referring to heat, we are talking about moderate heat, but not enough to cause harm. I think this is another one of those topics where people will disagree.
 
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