I just bought a IR surface temp thermometer to help me be careful when using the rotary. Anybody know what the danger zone is of temperature? What should I make sure I don't exceed? I've been using foam pads and now am moving over to wool pads. Is the heat build-up greater/faster with wool? But foam or wool, I assume that the not-to-exceed temperature limitations would be about the same?
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Surface Temperatures
- Thread starter Mo1nk
- Start date
I dont know about the exact temps, I just touch the panel with my hand, if I cant leave it on the paint, its too hot and I work faster.
I havent used wool yet, but I have some on order, from what I have learned from talking to people is that wool actually runs cooler than foam, so theoretically, they are safer....
Again Ive never used wool but this is what Ive gathered so far. Im sure Rydawg, Coupe, Superbee, ConglomerationAL, TDekany, and a number of others will jump in here soon and straighten this out.
Oh by the way, Welcome to Autopia!
Jim
I havent used wool yet, but I have some on order, from what I have learned from talking to people is that wool actually runs cooler than foam, so theoretically, they are safer....
Again Ive never used wool but this is what Ive gathered so far. Im sure Rydawg, Coupe, Superbee, ConglomerationAL, TDekany, and a number of others will jump in here soon and straighten this out.
Oh by the way, Welcome to Autopia!
Jim
Stay below 100-110 degree F. Paint obviously won't melt at that low temp but the warmer it gets the softer and easier to abrade it becomes.
Wool runs cooler because air can move between the fibers better then through the foam but wool cuts more. A properly "seasoned" foam pad won't heat up much past ambient temps.
Wool runs cooler because air can move between the fibers better then through the foam but wool cuts more. A properly "seasoned" foam pad won't heat up much past ambient temps.
the other pc
New member
Could you please explain this statement?MichaelM said:... A properly "seasoned" foam pad won't heat up much past ambient temps.
PC.
the other pc said:Could you please explain this statement?
"A properly 'seasoned' foam pad won't need to heat up much past ambient temps to cut."
...is more what I meant to say.
Just trying to compare the "running" temps of both types of pads, trying to point out that while it is easier to build heat with a foam pad that there doesn't need to be much of an increase in surface temp for a foam pad to still be effective.
imported_Reflectionz
New member
Coupe said:If you use wool for correction heat wont ever be a concern.
why not? because it will do the correction quick?
imported_Reflectionz
New member
MichaelM said:Stay below 100-110 degree F. Paint obviously won't melt at that low temp but the warmer it gets the softer and easier to abrade it becomes.
Wool runs cooler because air can move between the fibers better then through the foam but wool cuts more. A properly "seasoned" foam pad won't heat up much past ambient temps.
that scares the **** out of me sometimes! when you feel the paint and its soft compare to the rest! besides it cutting down a lot faster and having a higher risk at burning the paint, can it do anything else bad?
Coupe said:If you use wool for correction heat wont ever be a concern.
I'm sorry, but I'm new to the rotary, and my experience until now is limited to foam. What would I be using wool for besides correction? Do you mean I cannot achieve a "flawless" finish with wool? i.e. swirl. mar, haze and hologram-free.
imported_rydawg1
New member
As for temps, I have measured it and I will not use the rotary in the hot sun or use it on a day when it is 100. If so I will take my time when using foam. Wool does run alot cooler with the right polishes, but can still heat up in high humid temps. Also never apply to much pressure and move faster and this will allow the heat to dissapate and not get absorbed into the paint.
If you are unsure then place your back of the hand directly on the paint right after the pass and if you feel it hot then take a break.
Some say to spray the pad with QD, but this sometimes will make it hotter with some polishes. Water acts as a reactor with some chemicals in the polishes sometimes so you need to test your polish if you do this.
The 95 plus days are where I start to get worried even when I am in my garage.
If you are unsure then place your back of the hand directly on the paint right after the pass and if you feel it hot then take a break.
Some say to spray the pad with QD, but this sometimes will make it hotter with some polishes. Water acts as a reactor with some chemicals in the polishes sometimes so you need to test your polish if you do this.
The 95 plus days are where I start to get worried even when I am in my garage.
Reflectionz said:why not? because it will do the correction quick?
More air can circulate through the material unlike foam.
Mo1nk said:I'm sorry, but I'm new to the rotary, and my experience until now is limited to foam. What would I be using wool for besides correction? Do you mean I cannot achieve a "flawless" finish with wool? i.e. swirl. mar, haze and hologram-free.
At this point *i* only use it for correction and finish with foam.
With the Edge/Presta wool line up im willing to bet you can get a perfect finish.