Surface looks bad after detail

A

ADauphin

New member
Not sure how to title this one but the car is a dark green 99 Jetta and I think the surface either needs a rotary or different compounds. I washed with NXT, clayed, PC'd AIO and the glazed with Klasse HG. The car has been neglected in the detail dept but should I try a more abrasive polish with the PC or leace this up to a pro? Here are a few macro shots of the hood, there are other scratches like this that would not come out also...the only thing else I had was 3M perfect it swirl remover (grey stuff). There are alot of pits in the pic but the car looks great at 5' and the surface is not baby skin smooth but somewhat smooth...not like after a fresh wax like it should.



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Just my thoughts.... VW's have hard clear coats that I haven't had good luck removing a lot of defects with the PC. It wouldn't hurt to try something more aggresive however, before going to a rotary
 
I suppose it's safe to assume the Klasse AIO is mainly for cleaning and very minor defects. Perhaps the Menzerna FP or maybe IP? Been hearing good things about them. Also one question on using the PC: If I polish w/ FP or FI3, or similiar, should I keep going until the polish disappears or remove with a MF or waffle towel, or both. I removed the AIO w/ a MF but just curious on the best operation of the PC.
 
Granted if you step 10' away it looks like a new car but the surface tells a different story. I'll get a pic in the daylight tomorrow but this is the factory paint and it looks sandblasted :(
 
gmcman said:
I suppose it's safe to assume the Klasse AIO is mainly for cleaning and very minor defects. Perhaps the Menzerna FP or maybe IP? Been hearing good things about them. Also one question on using the PC: If I polish w/ FP or FI3, or similiar, should I keep going until the polish disappears or remove with a MF or waffle towel, or both. I removed the AIO w/ a MF but just curious on the best operation of the PC.
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polish till its just about dry, it should wipe right off with a few sturdy strokes.
 
oh an you should polish with an abrassive as opposed to aio(non abbrasive product). looks to me like they can come out
 
gbackus said:
Looks like a bad repaint.
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I second that. From the looks of it, only a rotary will take out the pitting (along with lots of your clearcoat). Can you catch your nail on the pits? If you can, then they're deep and probably not worth removing.



AIO can't hack this. Meg's #80 Speed Glaze or #83 + polishing pad comes to mind.
 
The only way I can describe it is when you detail your finish correctly you can run your finger across the surface and feel nearly zero friction. In this case it is smooth but not that zero feel..... kinda weird. Can't feel any of the pits, I figure it is below the CC in the paint but the scratches (the big ones) can be felt slightly.
 
gmcman you do realize you polished the car with a NONABBRASIVE product? its a cleaner and bonding agent for sg thats about it. aio doesnt level paint in my experience, all you did was protect the vw from further contamination by no means did you level the swirls or scratches. if someone levels with aio id love to hear about it.
 
Yeah, that needs some abrasive polishing, and I'd start with something stronger than the #80 too ;)



I dunno if I'd use the Klasse twins on that one, I only use those products on finishes I can get a *lot* better than I expect that one to turn out. I'd use a heavy carnauba like Collinite or Blitz.
 
VaSuperShine said:
gmcman you do realize you polished the car with a NONABBRASIVE product?
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I do now :hide: :D I didn't know it was non-abrasive, I figured it had suh'in in it. But....it does look a whole lot better, should have taken before pics. I noticed only the very slightest marks came out, the rest are still there. From what I have gathered #80 or maybe #83 is the place to start, if I go w/ #83 should I follow w/ #80 and apply the twins or is there something better after the #80 I should go for. Granted I have spent hours in the archives and it seems there are sooooo many different products that work better with other produts. Some of the acronyms are not in the "decoder ring" section so it is hard to follow sometimes. We're gettin there though. Here's a pic of the surface after I was finished (if you call it finished). Whatever you suggest I will try next weekend to fix er up, sux that it was alot of time to get it cleaned up.



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You can polish it with a PC, I would recommend 4" pads though, makes the job go easier.



I have had luck with SSR2.5 with a final of SSR1. Next time I will try some IP/FPII combo that I picked up. On the smaller pads, the orange pads go a long way and follow up with white finishing 6.5" pad.
 
Well, i'm going to place an order tomorrow for some polish and I have a black vehicle that is not as bad but minor swirls and scratches. I guess some IP or 80 and 83 w/ some natty's blue unless I should take a different route....thanks for the tips so far.
 
I have some IP & FP coming, was going to get the 80 & 83 but they were out. Now that I have what I need will the IP remove the KSG and AIO or should I use something before it? I figure if I need the IP then my order of protocol will be IP, FP, AIO, and should I skip the SG and go to #26 or Natty's blue or still use the twins then #26?
 
gmcman said:
I have some IP & FP coming, was going to get the 80 & 83 but they were out. Now that I have what I need will the IP remove the KSG and AIO or should I use something before it? I figure if I need the IP then my order of protocol will be IP, FP, AIO, and should I skip the SG and go to #26 or Natty's blue or still use the twins then #26?
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If the IP gums up when cutting through the KSG, try some rubbing alcohol to compromise the KSG. But I'd try just cutting through it.



Not sure why you'd skip the KSG unless the added protection isn't worth the effort to you. I'd get a number of layers of KSG on there before I topped it, but that's just me (heh heh, for that matter I don't bother topping it at all).



BUT...I don't use the Klasse approach unless I can get a finish virtually perfect, it just shows off the flaws too much. If you can't get it *really* nice I'd use a glaze and then a wax instead. So I'd see how it looks after you finish with the polishing and decide then.
 
I know some time has elapsed since my last post and I need to start a new thread but I finished the Envoy last weekend and after 8 hours she looks great :woot: , much better than I expected. There are some very faint marks here and there but I think something more abrasive than the IP may be needed but there not really worrying me right now. I'll post some pics this weekend when I can get home in the daylight. Order was clay,IP,FPII, AIO, 2 coats of KSG, then a layer of Natty's Blue. The only product that gave me any concern was the Natty's blue, I let it sit for about 30 min and it was dry and flaky but was a bear to completely remove. When I threw some light at it there were smears all over and didn't seem to completely come off with the MF, I needed some QD to get it right. My question is should I have let it sit longer or is this normal, all in all it looks dripping wet and well worth the effort, BTW VA SS i'm located in Manassas.
 
Glad to hear it turned out so well!



While I haven't used the NB, it seems like 99.9% of issues like you described come from using too much wax. Just as you need to apply the KSG very thin, I find that applying carnaubas that way works well too. If you could describe it as "flaky" then I bet you just put too much on.
 
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