Surbuf Pad paired with M105 and PC is a defect killer!

gmblack3a said:
KBM via Surbuf pad:



This process can be messy.



7" surbuf pad.

6" BP

PC or XPPC

Straight IPA



1. Do not prime the surbuf pad.

2. Apply 4 "larger then pea sized" dots of M105 to the pad.

3. Work the polish into an 12x12" area without turning on your PC.

4. Spritz the surface with water.

5. As in step 3, again work the polish around without turning on your PC, you are looking for a milky consistency.

6. Turn on PC and work the polish till it appears to dry.

7. Spritz more water onto the suface and continue to polish. What this does is bring the polish out of the pad and back to the surface.

8. I have found that you will need IPA sprayed onto your MF to remove the M105 from the surface.

9. Inspect and repeat if needed.



Notes:

If you find that one time is not enough to remove defects, you can always repeat #7 and keep on polishing.



After 2-3 sections, you will need to clean the pad by brushing off the pad and blowing out the excess polish with compressed air. After the pad becomes overly saturated w/ polish clean with warn water and some APC. Spin to dry. The pad does not have to be totally dry to use it again.



I have removed severe defects and 2000 grit wetsanding marks with this method.



Depedning on the hardness of the clear, you "might" be able to go right to M205 with a gray finishing pad via the KBM. Sometimes a middle step with M105/orange pad via KBM is required.



IMO this method will level paint as good as a rotary.
Click to expand...



Bryan,

I have been looking into this method for a while and have played with it. My ? is to you, will it level paint as fast as a rotory. I understand it will finish nicer then a rotory. If I could level a paint with a rotory faster then come back via KB method? IMO very few cars only requiere 2 steps. I'm not looking to be a smartass here either. I'm just trying to get an experianced answer. Thinking what may work for my style? If you understand.
 
bufferbarry said:
Bryan,

I have been looking into this method for a while and have played with it. My ? is to you, will it level paint as fast as a rotory. I understand it will finish nicer then a rotory. If I could level a paint with a rotory faster then come back via KB method? IMO very few cars only requiere 2 steps. I'm not looking to be a smartass here either. I'm just trying to get an experianced answer. Thinking what may work for my style? If you understand.
Click to expand...



Barry, Give the surbuf a try on a few cars.



For me it will cut as fast as a rotary, but it did take me a while of figuring out the process. It is different, so it will take some time to figure out.



I also see no reason why you could not cut/compound with a rotary and then follow with the orange flat LC pad/M105/PC aka KBM. Then just a quick step to finish with a black flat LC/M205/PC via the kbm.
 
gmblack3a said:
Barry, Give the surbuf a try on a few cars.



For me it will cut as fast as a rotary, but it did take me a while of figuring out the process. It is different, so it will take some time to figure out.



I also see no reason why you could not cut/compound with a rotary and then follow with the orange flat LC pad/M105/PC aka KBM. Then just a quick step to finish with a black flat LC/M205/PC via the kbm.
Click to expand...



Bryan,



SHHHHH. Don't tell know one, lol but this Rotory guy has been playing around alot with a pc and 105 and 205 lol. I just need to decide which pc upgrade I'm gonna do. I really leaning towards the the new megs one. The V2. Im also looking to purchase them surbuf pads. I'll keep you updated. I'll call you before I buy everything.

Barry



How bout them Steelers! :nana:
 
bufferbarry said:
Bryan,



SHHHHH. Don't tell know one, lol but this Rotory guy has been playing around alot with a pc and 105 and 205 lol. I just need to decide which pc upgrade I'm gonna do. I really leaning towards the the new megs one. The V2. Im also looking to purchase them surbuf pads. I'll keep you updated. I'll call you before I buy everything.

Barry



How bout them Steelers! :nana:
Click to expand...



Barry, I'm getting a V2 for sure. From what I read having less vibes is a big plus. Call me anytime.



The Steelers still have a small chance of doing what no other team can this year, winning a 7th superbowl. :D
 
gmblack3a said:
I also see no reason why you could not cut/compound with a rotary and then follow with the orange flat LC pad/M105/PC aka KBM.
Click to expand...



This is exactly what I did on my recent wet sanding adventure. Cutting/compounding with the rotary, then the PC with 105. Worked very well.



I've yet to try the surbuf pads.
 
So if a PC + Surbuf is a good combo I assume a Flex 3401 + Surbuf would be even better? Since the Flex is forced orbital and obviously is much more powerful.



Barry did you get yours yet and have a chance to play with them?



Has anybody used these with a Flex 3401?



I'm still looking for the right compounding pad for my Flex.



TIA
 
ABQDetailer said:
So if a PC + Surbuf is a good combo I assume a Flex 3401 + Surbuf would be even better? Since the Flex is forced orbital and obviously is much more powerful.



Barry did you get yours yet and have a chance to play with them?



Has anybody used these with a Flex 3401?



I'm still looking for the right compounding pad for my Flex.



TIA
Click to expand...





The company had no clue what the flex 3401 was. After I sent them the info, the answer was yes.
 
tdekany said:
I don't want to hijack the thread since it is about the pc.



So pm me if interested.
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PM sent.



Sorry I did not mean to hijack the thread.



Thanks Mr. Brown for sharing your experience with these pads and your M105 technique.



Oh yeah is the manufacturer site the best place to order these pads?



I look forward to trying them! :buffing:
 
ABQDetailer said:
So if a PC + Surbuf is a good combo I assume a Flex 3401 + Surbuf would be even better? Since the Flex is forced orbital and obviously is much more powerful.
Click to expand...



Just thinking out loud here...



I could see where the Flex's additional power might not be all that helpful, or even desirable, in this case. As I understand it, the big advantage of the SurBuf is that *USED PROPERLY* it lets the polishing liquid/M105 do the work with minimal interference from the application medium (i.e., the pad).



Note that it's important to *not* apply too much pressure lest the "fingers" of the SurBuf deflect too much. This strikes me as the opposite of the foam/wool pad situation, where the added power of the Flex is useful to counteract the significant friction/resistance of the pad's contact with the paint.



Eagerly awaiting Kevin Brown's opinion....
 
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