Surbuf or Meg's MF Pads?

Anonu

New member
I tried a search but didn't come up with much on a comparison.



How do these compare? I'd like to order something other than foam to try, and have a feeling that both aren't necessarily required. Used with a DA and M105, should I go for one over the other? How do they compare in cut and finishing ability? I usually finish with a light polish anyway (PO85RD), so the cutting is a bit more important for me, but don't want to get overly aggressive for no reason. I also don't sand, so I'm looking for scratch/swirl correction only.



Thanks.
 
You might want to try the Optimum microfiber compounding and polishing pads. They are made with a totally different foam and microfiber than the meguairs mf disks.
 
I'd recommend the Meguiar's DA Microfiber System.

Lots of my detailing friends use this system with huge success.



Check it out here.



Two discs, two liquids. Very easy to use, excellent cutting ability.



If compared head to head against the Surbuf, the DA Microfiber Cutting Discs are easier to use for a beginner. Meaning, the results you'll achieve will likely be more satisfactory.



Cutting away defects using a Surbuf pad generally needs to be followed up using a finishing pad of somw sort, as they do not typically leave a pristine finish (the microfiber discs, however, can).



If you decide to go the Surbuf route, you'll need to choose either a foam finishing pad, or a microfiber disc.
 
KB, do yo use the DA coumpound/polish aswell, or stick to M105? I also don't have the Meg's backing plates, is that a big deal?
 
Anonu said:
KB, do yo use the DA coumpound/polish aswell, or stick to M105? I also don't have the Meg's backing plates, is that a big deal?



I do use the DA compound; it can be a bit easier to use on a wide variety of paint types. It often finishes out so well, that you may question if what you are seeing is true!



The system as a whole can create finishes that used to require diligent polishing by an expert to accomplish. All of its components were tested for years to ensure a consistent polishing result on a wide variety of paint types, for beginners and experts alike.



Backing plate choice can make a difference, as their diameter and flexibility plays a part in overall performance. In addition, various hook and loop materials used to make backing plates can grab onto the disc more or less, so it's always wise to pull the disc from the plate carefully.



The recommended backing plate for the 5" discs measures 4-13/16", and weighs approximately 3.74 ounces, and would be considered right between rigid and flexible along its edge.



I use all sorts of plates with the discs; measure yours, and if it is close to the same size, get some discs and the liquids, and get to polishing!
 
I'm kinda in the same boat. I'm using the 105 w/ an orange LC pad on a PC and I'm needing something that's more aggressive for a few spots. I really like what the 105 can take out but it dusts. I've started using the KBM but I still have some dusting. I think I'm still using too much compound. I've read that the D300 doesn't dust as bad but I don't know if it cuts as good. Hopefully KB will come back in and give us some more info.
 
Getting both is a relatively big expense for the quantities I'd have to buy and the number of cars that I do. My inclination right now is to get 105 with the MF pad to get maximum cut with a DA. I haven't seen anyone suggest how well D300 cuts in relation to M105, so I'm afraid I'll get D300 and regret it.
 
Anonu said:
KB, do you use the DA compound/polish as well, or stick to M105?



I use both. I have used a lot of D300 over the past year, and don't think you're giving up much compared to M105. Against the original version or M101, perhaps. But for most paint types, you'll be very happy with D300. I'll keep my eyes open, and if the site hooks an order, I'll accompany it with a 4 oz. sample of M105.



ww2717 said:
Kevin:

What is your opinion of the Optimum compounding and polishing microfiber pads?



I have only used three Optimum pads, and truly have a hard time using them. This had nothing to do with their capabilities... it's simply because I spent a lot of time with the Meguiar's discs, and helping for years with development testing.



Edit for clarification: I meant to relay the fact that I have a bias towards the Meguiar's discs... not necessarily to do with performance, but more to do with loyalty to Jason Rose and the R&D team at Meguiar's, and their system.



LilJayV10 said:
I'm kinda in the same boat. I'm using the 105 w/ an orange LC pad on a PC and I'm needing something that's more aggressive for a few spots. I really like what the 105 can take out but it dusts. I've started using the KBM but I still have some dusting. I think I'm still using too much compound. I've read that the D300 doesn't dust as bad but I don't know if it cuts as good. Hopefully KB will come back in and give us some more info.



M105 certainly dusts a bit more, but you can minimize it to a large degree by spritzing with water in place of applying additional compound. Once the compound locks onto the disc (and you're not seeing its effects on the paint surface), simply mist a bit of water onto the paint and continue polishing.



While its true that you will often see a bit of scouring by doing this, the haziness will be easy to eliminate with a follow up application of M105 or a finishing polish.



Diligent cleaning of the pad will eliminate dusting, obviously because you are determining where the excess or spent particles end up (in a towel, a vacuum, or blown away from the vehicle using compressed air).
 
Some very good info here. I've used both Surbuf and Meguiars MF cutting pads with success. Just like everything else, it depends on the situation/condition of the paint on which combo will work best.
 
I've ordered the polishing pads and D300 now. I have a few oz. of M105 in a bottle, so if I'm really stuck, i'll be able to use that at least.



Hope this experiment works! I've had heart (and wallet) ache from someof the things I've tried recently.
 
Kevin and I discussed this just the other day.



I never got the same greast results with SurBuf pads that I get so easily with my Meguiar's MF Cutting pads. Now I haven't worked all that hard at mastering the SurBufs, but it's not like I usually have trouble with this stuff either (not like learning to do OK with a rotary was any challenge). Eh, I simply don't want to struggle to master *anything*; I just want to get the job done quickly and easily. I want products and processes to be "Accumulator-proof" (which is very different from "idiot-proof" ;) ),



I ended up deciding that in the time it'd take to figure out the SurBufs, I could actually *do* all the correction I'll ever need to do if I use something else. Note that I usually work on really hard clear too. Spending a few hours (and more than a few microns of clearcoat) learning the SurBufs would be pointless for me.



So that's what I was saying to Kevin. And yeah, we discussed how I was covering all the bases and not overlooking anything when I tried the SurBufs. They just weren't working right for me.



Kevin did *NOT* admonish me to "work harder to learn the SurBufs". He didn't suggest any additional considerations I might have overlooked. Rather, he agreed that they're not the right tool for everyone's job and that they can take a good bit of figuring out and that it might not be worth it in a lot of cases.



We both wondered about the "average DIY detailer" in this regard...how many corrections will it take to master the SurBufs? How many corrections should that person be doing period?



So, if the SurBufs work for you, great. But if they don't, there are plenty of other ways to do aggressive correction and maybe one of those other approaches might be a better idea.



I myself will be sticking to MF cutting pads, PFW, and Meguiar's maroon foam for my aggressive work. And yeah..maybe some aggressive wool pads every now and then on the rotaries if I don't want to wetsand for some reason.
 
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