Suggestions for Ferrous-Iron Decontamonation Removers

I haven’t had the need to decontaminate in years. In my case I don’t know how ongoing of a cleaning task it really is.
 
Lonnie said:
Thanks to my fellow Autopians for this discussion and suggestions on iron removers.
Not so sure on the chemistry lessons and information, as my chemical understanding is very elementary.
Like I asked , I just want something that works well on iron removal, as I see this a lot on newer vehicles that I sometimes detail for friends or family, and obviously it is most noticeable on light-colored vehicles.
Someone asked where does it come from? I told them either in shipping by rail car from the wheels and tracks OR from the iron disc brake sloughing/abraiding off onto the paint. When asked why it is so prevalent on rear trunk lids, back ends, and rear hatch doors I would think that air flows over and around vehicles cause this and iron particles ends up there.
I also assume that if someone is an aggressive braking driver OR does a lot of stop-n-go driving that iron particles, and hence rust specks, would be more prevalent on such driven vehicles and require more frequent iron decontamination.
Any thoughts?? I am assuming that iron decontamination is an ongoing vehicle exterior cleaning process; IE, it is not a once-and-done thing.
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Go to Valugard.net and in the Engineer`s section, TSB`s. Ford ##99-12-10, print it out to share with your clients as it has the information, etc to explain what is the issue. They are more receptive to information that is published by an automotive manufacturer than just words
 
The new Meg’s Detailer line sounds promising. From what I gather it smells potent but is super effective. They apparently didn’t try to mask the smell to keep it very effective. Plus with the 25% off sales it can be had fairly cheap for a gallon if you use that much. I think I’m gonna try it out.
 
Dr Oldz said:
The new Meg’s Detailer line sounds promising. From what I gather it smells potent but is super effective. They apparently didn’t try to mask the smell to keep it very effective. Plus with the 25% off sales it can be had fairly cheap for a gallon if you use that much. I think I’m gonna try it out.
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If anyone is interested in information, availability, and purchase price for this new Meg`s Detailer Line product offering, this the link to it from AutoGeek:
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-d1801-iron-decon.html
(No, I did not see it yet on Autopia Car Care)

Still a "little" concerned about its dual-application for both wheels and paint, BUT considering that wheels (rims) are clear-coated just like vehicle sheet metal paint, those fears are probably unfounded; IE, what works well for wheels is too strong for paint OR what is safe for metal panels paint is too weak for wheels.
I would hope some Autopian will test and review this product soon, as buying a gallon at $80.00 is a "little expensive" for my hobbyist detailing budget to "try out". then again, the Meg`s Detailing Line Car-Care chemical products I do have in my detailing arsenal (Non-Acid Wheel Cleaner, Hyper Wash, D101 All-Purpose Cleaner) work very well for their intended detailing task and are very cost-effective in my opinion.
 
Lonnie said:
Still a "little" concerned about its dual-application for both wheels and paint, BUT considering that wheels (rims) are clear-coated just like vehicle sheet metal paint, those fears are probably unfounded; IE, what works well for wheels is too strong for paint OR what is safe for metal panels paint is too weak for wheels...
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I thought most oe wheels were powdercoated these days. The ones that were on my Mazda MPV were and if *that* POS had powdercoated wheels...

I`m probably just overly cautious...won`t say "paranoid" ;) ...but I like the confidence inspired by documented testing when it comes to stuff that could ruin a vehicle.

Heh heh...so says that guy who complains that ValuGard`s "A" and "B" aren`t potent enough :o I`d rather [gripe] and moan than trash my cars though.

And I dunno how much "hard braking" factors in, though I guess every situation/vehicle is different... Some of mine have been driven *AWFULLY* hard and they didn`t need ferrous decontamination from "iron off the rotors" or from pad dust, or...whatever people expect.

And a lot of vehicles are delivered "in the bag" rather than just the old Transit Wrap, so I wouldn`t *expect* it to be as big a deal these days (but I just know that as soon as I post that... well, you know).

Like Bill D, I hardly ever have to decontaminate at all. What I have had to do was easily accomplished by claying (and no, it didn`t "come back"). But if you need to then you need to and experiences/needs will vary.
 
If I do need the equivalent of claying, I’m just going to ABC the whole vehicle. That is easier for me than claying which I find often to be tedious.
 
Lonnie said:
If anyone is interested in information, availability, and purchase price for this new Meg`s Detailer Line product offering, this the link to it from AutoGeek:
https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-d1801-iron-decon.html
(No, I did not see it yet on Autopia Car Care)

Still a "little" concerned about its dual-application for both wheels and paint, BUT considering that wheels (rims) are clear-coated just like vehicle sheet metal paint, those fears are probably unfounded; IE, what works well for wheels is too strong for paint OR what is safe for metal panels paint is too weak for wheels.
I would hope some Autopian will test and review this product soon, as buying a gallon at $80.00 is a "little expensive" for my hobbyist detailing budget to "try out". then again, the Meg`s Detailing Line Car-Care chemical products I do have in my detailing arsenal (Non-Acid Wheel Cleaner, Hyper Wash, D101 All-Purpose Cleaner) work very well for their intended detailing task and are very cost-effective in my opinion.
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I’m waiting on some user reviews of the new Megs Iron decon product. I don’t really care for the thicker type of decon product on my paint. With the thicker solution you need to move it around to make sure you cover the paint. With CarPro Iron-X you just need a good spray pattern to cover a large area and you don’t need to manually wipe the smelly stuff around. I can understand it being thick to stay on the wheels longer, but it contains no surfactants to remove grime or tar so I would not be interested it it as a wheel cleaner. I don’t see this as a product that changes the way I detail my vehicles. The product more fills a hole in the Megs product line for those that like to use only one brand.
 
Bill D said:
If I do need the equivalent of claying, I’m just going to ABC the whole vehicle. That is easier for me than claying which I find often to be tedious.
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And risky, marring-wise.

Although yeah...last time I decontaminated anything (A8 and Tahoe after many years) I did just clay `em. Took forever doing it an inch or so at a time. I am a bit nervous about using AB (don`t care for "C", used it up on wheels/wells so I just wash with something else that`s either neutral or slightly alkaline) on the A8 what with all its compromised aluminum trim, which is cloudy enough already. No real excuse/reason for not ABing the Tahoe, but it started as a "well, guess I`ll try claying the rockers" and kinda took off from there :o
 
rlmccarty2000 said:
..I can understand it being thick to stay on the wheels longer, but it contains no surfactants to remove grime or tar so I would not be interested it it as a wheel cleaner.
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I somehow think of "ferrous decontamination products" as being for, well...that and only that (weird specialty applications aside). I wouldn`t use them for cleaning off other contaminants like brake dust/tar. Guess the idea comes from people using acidic Wheel Cleaners for all sorts of cleaning.
 
Well, its not claiming to be a serious wheel cleaner is it? Probably about as much cleaning ability as Iron-X has. The Megs DUB and the Ultimate Wheel cleaner must have additional cleaners in it which could be worrisome on the paint. Are you worried about the potency of the sintered iron dissolving chemicals?

I have used the DUB wheel cleaner on paint several times and did not notice any bad chemical streaking, etching or film residue left over from it.
 
Check the FK website for current car care products. The 1119/883 system is no longer produced. As I said earlier, too high of VOC, too polluting to ground water, to agressive for today`s paint systems.
 
A little off topic, but for anyone else who has to deal with the lovely well water here in FL, I`ve found that the Sonax Fallout Cleaner does wonders for the layer of "stuff" built up on the shower tile that nothing from Home Depot had ever been able to touch. Just make sure to do it on a cool day when you can have all the windows open to air the place out and have a fan running. This is why the water at the house never touches the cars. :o

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Has anyone tried the IGL EcoClean Iron (Remover)?

Wondering how that one fares against iron particles. Supposedly, this one is effective and without the malodor typically associated with these.




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And to think some of us have come this far from Before the Japanese Claybars were introduced to the US in the 1980`s, then, to really easy to use and rinse rubberized towels, and now, to a huge world of Ferrous Iron Decontamination Removers !!! :) :) :)

And now, this is an extra step that takes more time, to do, and there is still the claybar/claytowel process afterwards, no ??

I have absolutely no problem using the Claybar/Claytowel process; yes it is a little tedious, but if you think of it as sanding down the entire vehicle quickly with the nice lubes they make, or even soapy water, this process in my experiences still gets everything off the paintwork leaving it baby`s bottom smooth..

And I didnt damage any trim, etc., didnt have to inhale toxic fumes, etc...

Perhaps that is the difference in doing this craft to support yourself, your family, ( have to be really accurate, fast, don`t waste time, movements..) vs doing this for pleasure??

Lonnie, hope you find what you are looking for !
Dan F
 
I always find it amazing that so many people apparently clay/decon. towel without inducing marring. I have to be *so* slow, careful, and meticulous that I just don`t imagine other people doing it (that way). Whenever I rushed the process (as in, didn`t spend hours at it), I got some light marring somewhere, so I have to work inch-by-inch with extreme care. Also, back before I latched onto my current LSP regimen, I had rust-blooms "come back" when I merely clayed them away; that didn`t get the [stuff] out of the pores of the paint (or something like that).

So I figure that the Decontamination Chemicals take those concerns off the table and, if the right/safe stuff is used, damage to the vehicle/user is awfully unlikely except in cases that oughta be obvious.

So,...gee Stokdgs, am I arguing with you?!? Heh heh, as if I could posit a decent argument relative to what *you* are doing :o Guess I`m thinking more about those who aren`t 100% dialed-in already.

Oh, and...I bet Ketch could answer this one...I bet the Decontamination Chemicals were around long before Detailing Clay. I don`t really know, just guessing..
 
This is my personal opinion, but I think iron removers are not really removing anything. They just react with particles and are more "show" than actually effective.

Makes for neat pictures, much like foam cannons, but that`s about it.
 
Anthony O. said:
This is my personal opinion, but I think iron removers are not really removing anything. They just react with particles and are more "show" than actually effective.

Makes for neat pictures, much like foam cannons, but that`s about it.
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I agree. I`ve bought these items because they sound like EXACTLY what one would need. But like "spot removers", they just don`t deliver. My first experience with them was Sonax Full Effect, and while I enjoyed the show, I think distilled water or maybe just giving the wheels an angry look would have worked as well.
 
Stokdgs said:
And to think some of us have come this far from Before the Japanese Claybars were introduced to the US in the 1980`s, then, to really easy to use and rinse rubberized towels, and now, to a huge world of Ferrous Iron Decontamination Removers !!! :) :) :)

And now, this is an extra step that takes more time, to do, and there is still the claybar/claytowel process afterwards, no ??

I have absolutely no problem using the Claybar/Claytowel process; yes it is a little tedious, but if you think of it as sanding down the entire vehicle quickly with the nice lubes they make, or even soapy water, this process in my experiences still gets everything off the paintwork leaving it baby`s bottom smooth..

And I didnt damage any trim, etc., didnt have to inhale toxic fumes, etc...

Perhaps that is the difference in doing this craft to support yourself, your family, ( have to be really accurate, fast, don`t waste time, movements..) vs doing this for pleasure??

Lonnie, hope you find what you are looking for !
Dan F
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WOW, Stokdgs, I guess I never really thought of claying as a "decontamination" process, but a PREP CLEANING process. I still mechanically rub the surface with a mild clay bar and lube and have not "progressed" to the towels/mitts. I have reservations on them as being thorough with abrading a surface compared to extracting or pulling "contaminates" like rust specs, tar, bug guts, tree sap via the adhesive action of a mild clay bar. YES, I do scratch/swirl the surface with a clay bar on dirty paints/clear coats finishes, but that is why I ALWAYS follow with a compound and/or polish to remove my induced swirls along with those that are almost always present from improper wash techniques or just plain vehicle-use driven wear-and-tear.


I guess if I did NOT have to clay after using a chemical decontaminate, I might consider using it, which is why I started this thread discussion in the first place. But now yours and others leaves some questions about using and iron decontaminate and that using a clay bar may be just a effective. Then again, I THINK that an iron decontaminate is more of a maintenance cleaner for appearance reasons and not a prep cleaner, if that makes any sense, IE; you just want to remove the iron specs without having to do any claying or polishing to save on time and effort.
 
Eh, if the Ferrous Contamination Removers don`t work, then how do they permanently remove rust-blooms? Clay it away and it comes back; use "B" and it doesn`t. Seems cut-and-dried, just like using Rust Removers on other pieces of ferrous stuff; you can see it working if you spend the time. (Actually, Ketch suggested I use "B" to prep surface-rusted metal, yeah, it works, but very slowly, so I switched to something more aggressive.) The old FK product was apparently one *potent* acid that would eat up all sorts of stuff whether the user wanted it to or not! Those products eat rust (and some other forms of oxidation too).

BUT..., I`m talking about an acidic product and I`ve never used the color-changing ones, let alone the "non-acidic" versions, which I didn`t even understand until somebody here explained it. And I often wonder why people are using Ferrous Contamination Removers all the time...but OK, different people have different issues to deal with.

Anothony O- Happy New Year! Sheesh, first time I see you posting here in `19 and I`m coming across like I`m arguing with you :o
 
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