Suggestions for cleaning these wheels.
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Preachers Sheets
New member
http://www.3m.com/US/auto_marine_aero/aad/
That is 3M's web page...
About the product listing, it's kind of time consuming, if you can tell us what you are thinking of using 3M products for, I am sure we can tell you exactly which products of the 3M lineup will suit your needs and give you details of each from there.
3M makes alot of stuff.
That is 3M's web page...
About the product listing, it's kind of time consuming, if you can tell us what you are thinking of using 3M products for, I am sure we can tell you exactly which products of the 3M lineup will suit your needs and give you details of each from there.
3M makes alot of stuff.
I plan on getting a PC very soon. My Wife has a black car with some swirl's. I am hopping to take care of it with SMR.
I am getting the feeling after reading here that the SMR may not be enough. I need to know the next more aggressive step(s).
I am willing to accept so swirls to avoid getting to aggressive.
I am getting the feeling after reading here that the SMR may not be enough. I need to know the next more aggressive step(s).
I am willing to accept so swirls to avoid getting to aggressive.
Preachers Sheets
New member
Well, the "weak" 3M product your talking about is:
3M Swirl Mark Remover
Manf part #: 39009
With this product you'll be there for quite a while, it is used for very minor swirl marks.
Your best bet would to use:
3M PerfectIt-II
Manf part #: 39002
I had light to medium swirl marks on my car, two passes of this product with my PPorter Cable buffer machine and the yellow pad and 99.99% of my swirl marks were gone, it was really impressive how well it worked.
Ask away, I know this message was brief.
3M Swirl Mark Remover
Manf part #: 39009
With this product you'll be there for quite a while, it is used for very minor swirl marks.
Your best bet would to use:
3M PerfectIt-II
Manf part #: 39002
I had light to medium swirl marks on my car, two passes of this product with my PPorter Cable buffer machine and the yellow pad and 99.99% of my swirl marks were gone, it was really impressive how well it worked.
Ask away, I know this message was brief.
The fact that 3M has so many products is the problem.
I see the finesse IT line the Perfect IT line.
I have searched for "Swirl Marks" and keep finding some take about Finesse and some talk about PerfectIT.
I guess I need to state my goals.
I use Klasse with a Collinite topper.
I am not a perfectionist. Thought I was until I met you guys :bow
My white VW is fine.
I want to significantly reduce the swirls on my Wife's black Subaru.
Here is what I would like to do to the black car.
1. Wash with ABC
2. Clay (if needed)
3. PC with what ever 3M product I need to reduce Swirls. May be a number of steps here I understand.
4. Klasse
5. Start using Souveran for topper
I see the finesse IT line the Perfect IT line.
I have searched for "Swirl Marks" and keep finding some take about Finesse and some talk about PerfectIT.
I guess I need to state my goals.
I use Klasse with a Collinite topper.
I am not a perfectionist. Thought I was until I met you guys :bow
My white VW is fine.
I want to significantly reduce the swirls on my Wife's black Subaru.
Here is what I would like to do to the black car.
1. Wash with ABC
2. Clay (if needed)
3. PC with what ever 3M product I need to reduce Swirls. May be a number of steps here I understand.
4. Klasse
5. Start using Souveran for topper
Preachers Sheets
New member
Just to save yourself the headache, go with the two products I informed you off.
Use the stronger one to get rid of the main swirls and the weaker one to get rid of the smaller swirls.
Those two products ..... after clay will get your paint 100% perfect in regards to swirls. I know what your saying with the other 3M products, I have them ............ I don't use them. Those two will be all you need. Espically if you have a Porter Cable machine. Like I said before, after these two products your paint will look perfect and the Klasse AIO and Glaze will really give you the shine your looking for.
Ignore all the other 3M products.
P.S. The rubbing compound "Finese It-II" is for the really bad swirls, I would only recommend this if your paints pretty bad... yours doesn't sound close.
Use the stronger one to get rid of the main swirls and the weaker one to get rid of the smaller swirls.
Those two products ..... after clay will get your paint 100% perfect in regards to swirls. I know what your saying with the other 3M products, I have them ............ I don't use them. Those two will be all you need. Espically if you have a Porter Cable machine. Like I said before, after these two products your paint will look perfect and the Klasse AIO and Glaze will really give you the shine your looking for.
Ignore all the other 3M products.
P.S. The rubbing compound "Finese It-II" is for the really bad swirls, I would only recommend this if your paints pretty bad... yours doesn't sound close.
Preachers Sheets
New member
my aol im is : davulis
my e-mail is : joedavulis@hotmail.com
those products are very easy to find at a store since the part numbers are right on the front of them.
my e-mail is : joedavulis@hotmail.com
those products are very easy to find at a store since the part numbers are right on the front of them.
Chuckmotor
New member
The FI-II is safe to use. It works, and especially if it's a black car where swirls thrive, I'd use the FI-II. It's not gonna burn the clear coat or anything, unless you really abuse it.
vettefan67
New member
SMR should work fine...why use a product that is stronger than what you need? Try 1-2 apps of SMR #39009 and it will remove all of the swirls for sure, do hand applications of FI-II on the stubborn deep swirls and re-do the area with SMR to remove hazing if needed.
imported_Intermezzo
New member
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by joed1228 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Well, the "weak" 3M product your talking about is:
3M Swirl Mark Remover
Manf part #: 39009
With this product you'll be there for quite a while, it is used for very minor swirl marks.
Your best bet would to use:
3M PerfectIt-II
Manf part #: 39002
I had light to medium swirl marks on my car, two passes of this product with my PPorter Cable buffer machine and the yellow pad and 99.99% of my swirl marks were gone, it was really impressive how well it worked.
Ask away, I know this message was brief. [/b]</blockquote>
Those are two excellent products. However, there is also the Finesse-It II PN 39003 which is in between those two in terms of abrasiveness.
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by joed1228 [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Well, the "weak" 3M product your talking about is:
3M Swirl Mark Remover
Manf part #: 39009
With this product you'll be there for quite a while, it is used for very minor swirl marks.
Your best bet would to use:
3M PerfectIt-II
Manf part #: 39002
I had light to medium swirl marks on my car, two passes of this product with my PPorter Cable buffer machine and the yellow pad and 99.99% of my swirl marks were gone, it was really impressive how well it worked.
Ask away, I know this message was brief. [/b]</blockquote>
Those are two excellent products. However, there is also the Finesse-It II PN 39003 which is in between those two in terms of abrasiveness.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>SMR should work fine...why use a product that is stronger than what you need?[/b]</blockquote>
I don't want to use more than I need that is the reason for the question.
3m is worse than a fisherman with a vest full of patches.
As a non-professional I am sure I only need one maybe two products.
Going from SMR to something that will leave a haze sounds aggressive to me. I don't mean no disrespect. I would rather error on the side of still have a few swirl marks than go throught the clear.
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>SMR should work fine...why use a product that is stronger than what you need?[/b]</blockquote>
I don't want to use more than I need that is the reason for the question.
3m is worse than a fisherman with a vest full of patches.
As a non-professional I am sure I only need one maybe two products.
Going from SMR to something that will leave a haze sounds aggressive to me. I don't mean no disrespect. I would rather error on the side of still have a few swirl marks than go throught the clear.
vettefan67
New member
I'm saying try SMR first and if and only if it does not work for you, move up to FI-II. This way you use the least agressive product needed. I too left behind a couple of heavier swirls rather than keep removing clear with abrasives - I actually don't even see those few much at all now that I've Klassed over the car!
Please keep in mind I hold a minority view on this matter and most others would recommend FI-II, which I haven't even used because I had good results with SMR - except for one thing. I got pretty bad hazing from this when using it by hand, but since you're going to be using a PC you should be fine.
Please keep in mind I hold a minority view on this matter and most others would recommend FI-II, which I haven't even used because I had good results with SMR - except for one thing. I got pretty bad hazing from this when using it by hand, but since you're going to be using a PC you should be fine.
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by 4mo [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Can someone please help by listing the 3M products based on aggressiveness starting with SMR and going more aggressive? Also a good on-line source for the products.[/b]</blockquote>
To get rid of swirls and light scratchs you want to start with the mildest abrasive. Only if the mildest doesn't work will you need to go a step more abrasive.
Lighting can make a HUGE difference in what you can see. Try to work under flourescent or halogen lights. That way if your lighting is constant you will be able to make a more scientific comparison of different products.
When you get to a level of product that removes the scratchs then use that product followed by the next mildest and the next mildest. For example if you had to start at the bottom of the list of products in this post, you would then work your way up to the top, before waxing or sealing the finish.
I like 3M Products for tasks like this because they have a graduated scale of abrasive products which will allow you to choose the right product for the job. The first item the SMR is not classified as a rubbing compound because it is so fine and it has the added benefit of leaving a very smooth glazed looking surface.
From mild to abrasive here's a list of 3M's products.
<em class='bbc'>clic pics[/i]
<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by 4mo [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>Can someone please help by listing the 3M products based on aggressiveness starting with SMR and going more aggressive? Also a good on-line source for the products.[/b]</blockquote>
To get rid of swirls and light scratchs you want to start with the mildest abrasive. Only if the mildest doesn't work will you need to go a step more abrasive.
Lighting can make a HUGE difference in what you can see. Try to work under flourescent or halogen lights. That way if your lighting is constant you will be able to make a more scientific comparison of different products.
When you get to a level of product that removes the scratchs then use that product followed by the next mildest and the next mildest. For example if you had to start at the bottom of the list of products in this post, you would then work your way up to the top, before waxing or sealing the finish.
I like 3M Products for tasks like this because they have a graduated scale of abrasive products which will allow you to choose the right product for the job. The first item the SMR is not classified as a rubbing compound because it is so fine and it has the added benefit of leaving a very smooth glazed looking surface.
From mild to abrasive here's a list of 3M's products.
<em class='bbc'>clic pics[/i]
Preachers Sheets
New member
I am saying go with the 39009 stuff because we all know how weak smr is.
Sure you can be safe over sorry but what the heck, one pass of 39009 wont remove all the swirls anyways, it'll just lessen the product he needs to use of the weaker stuff and cut his work time down.
Use the stronger stuff for one pass then if your so worried you can finish it up with the weaker stuff.
Why do it the long way, if he has swirls you can estimate how much of the stronger product he needs and just half of what he will need and use the weaker stuff to finish up................
Sure you can be safe over sorry but what the heck, one pass of 39009 wont remove all the swirls anyways, it'll just lessen the product he needs to use of the weaker stuff and cut his work time down.
Use the stronger stuff for one pass then if your so worried you can finish it up with the weaker stuff.
Why do it the long way, if he has swirls you can estimate how much of the stronger product he needs and just half of what he will need and use the weaker stuff to finish up................
A good rule of thumb is to always use the least aggressive product possible. Only if it doesn't work do you need to go more aggressive. With that said, it makes sense to start off with 3M SMR. If you don't have it, then get it. You will definitely use this product down the road for light swirls that develop.
If the SMR doesn't really work well, then try the Finesse It 2. It really doesn't make too much sense to start off with a more aggressive product and then work down. Another thing that should be noted is that one is not going to use 3M SMR on the entire car and THEN DECIDE OR REALIZE "I guess this stuff is a bit too mild. Perhaps I should try something more aggressive." Instead, we try 3M SMR on small areas such as a tiny area of the hood and see if this works. So you're really not losing much time at all by starting with the safer product. Laters
If the SMR doesn't really work well, then try the Finesse It 2. It really doesn't make too much sense to start off with a more aggressive product and then work down. Another thing that should be noted is that one is not going to use 3M SMR on the entire car and THEN DECIDE OR REALIZE "I guess this stuff is a bit too mild. Perhaps I should try something more aggressive." Instead, we try 3M SMR on small areas such as a tiny area of the hood and see if this works. So you're really not losing much time at all by starting with the safer product. Laters
Chuckmotor
New member
I'm just asking, but has anybody here stepped up to the Perfect-it II rubbing compound? Is that safe for clear coats, and is it ok to use if FI-II isn't doing the trick?
imported_kakeuter
New member
I was hoping to get some insite on how you pros would clean, protect and maintain these matte black wheels.
What's the best product and method to use when detailing such wheels. I just want to make sure I'm properly maintaining them and not making them duller.
Thanks, as always, for your feedback.
Here is a picture of the actually vehicle, sorry, don't have a close-up of the wheels, yet.
What's the best product and method to use when detailing such wheels. I just want to make sure I'm properly maintaining them and not making them duller.
Thanks, as always, for your feedback.
Here is a picture of the actually vehicle, sorry, don't have a close-up of the wheels, yet.
mikeyg402
New member
The only product that i know of that would actually keep the matte finish from fading is from SwissVax. They max a Matte finish wax. The stuff aint cheap at all. I had a friend buy some so I could detail his Matte black Corvette. But as for solvents/chemicals to clean it. Be careful go slow. Lots of stuff will make them fade. Try to find something on PAC that doesnt have any strong abrasive/chemicals in it. Something that is citrus/pH balanced will probably do the trick.