Strange Request: Pics of FK Decon Kit Needed

[Eisen Hulk]

Hey, guys.



This is a very strange request, so please bare with me. I detailed a new Scuderia this weekend for a customer who really knows how to take care of his cars. I walked into his garage, and quickly noticed Menzerna polishes, Souveran, Zaino, P21S, Rejex, and numerous FK products, including my favorite QD; FK425. Needless to say, I was very impressed.



Now, onto my dilemma. He had some extra (And previously unused) FK1 products that are part of their decontamination kit. He told me that they had been sitting on his shelves for a long time, and he probably wouldn't even use them, so he gave me the duplicate products (Two bottles total). The first is FK1119, which I know is the first step in the three-step decon kit. The second bottle he gave me is, I believe, step number two, but I'm not sure because the label is faded on the back, and I can't tell what the product code is. I was wondering if anyone could/would describe the contents of the bottles used for step two and three so I can figure out what I have. Pictures would be even better! Once I can figure out what's in the mystery bottle, then I can complete the kit by ordering the final product.



Thanks in advance.



EH

 

[Eisen Hulk]

Please disregard.



Found what I was looking for.

 

[mblgjr]

Glad you found it.



For those wondering...



You should have a brown bottle that is a general wash solution.



Then a bottle of yellow cleanser that is applied directly...followed by a green product that is a neutralizing wash.



It's a great system that works VERY well. I like to use it first; then clay because it pulls a LOT of contaminants out of the paint without any risk of marring from the clay.

 

[Eisen Hulk]

Thanks, man. Looks like I have steps one and two. I need the PH wash (step three). For those who have used this, what about step four that is discussed on the FK1 web site? Is this step really necessary?

Glad you found it.



For those wondering...



You should have a brown bottle that is a general wash solution.



Then a bottle of yellow cleanser that is applied directly...followed by a green product that is a neutralizing wash.



It's a great system that works VERY well. I like to use it first; then clay because it pulls a LOT of contaminants out of the paint without any risk of marring from the clay.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

I don't know that you really need to use their wash to neutralize the acid step, any wash should be neutral to alkaline and should do the job. This is the first I've heard of a "step 4", unless that is the sealant.

 

[Eisen Hulk]

Thanks for the info, S.A.



You're right...Step four is the sealant. I'd be using my own LSP/sealant, so that wouldn't be needed.

I don't know that you really need to use their wash to neutralize the acid step, any wash should be neutral to alkaline and should do the job. This is the first I've heard of a "step 4", unless that is the sealant.

 

[imported_themightytimmah]

Step 3 is unnecessary - any good wash soap will work instead of theirs.

 

[Eisen Hulk]

That is pretty much what I thought.



Looks like I'm good to go then. I got a really nice deal....Got to work on a new Scuderia, and I got a free FK Decon Kit.



:woot2:

Step 3 is unnecessary - any good wash soap will work instead of theirs.

 

[Bert]

That is pretty much what I thought.



Looks like I'm good to go then. I got a really nice deal....Got to work on a new Scuderia, and I got a free FK Decon Kit.



:woot2:

If you would, let me know how that FK Decon kit treats cars you work on.

 

[Eisen Hulk]

Will do, Bert.



Sorry about not getting up with you on Saturday. When I got there, I asked the owner about someone coming down to help...He didn't seem too keen on that idea, so I didn't press it.

If you would, let me know how that FK Decon kit treats cars you work on.

 

[Bert]

Will do, Bert.



Sorry about not getting up with you on Saturday. When I got there, I asked the owner about someone coming down to help...He didn't seem too keen on that idea, so I didn't press it.

No problem. I couldn't get out of my prior obligation so I wouldn't have been able to help you regardless.

 

[Accumulator]

If you would, let me know how that FK Decon kit treats cars you work on.

Yeah, I'd like some feedback too, especially the acidic step, I've yet to try that.



The alkaline/first step (FK1119) works OK IME, and I did well claying while it was dwelling. Even removed some lane-line paint that'd been on there for a long time. But it did *zero* for oxidation (not that I'd really expected it to) and didn't remove tar the way a solvent will (did OK though). Like AutoInt's "A", it's a good super-shampoo but it's no miracle-worker.



Others had complained about the smell ("just throw away the mitt!") but I didn't think it was all that bad. Not as nice smelling as AutoInt's "A" though.

 

[Setec Astronomy]

Others had complained about the smell ("just throw away the mitt!") but I didn't think it was all that bad.

I didn't throw away my wash media, I just had to leave it AND the Rubbermaid bucket in the garage for a week to air out before I could bring them back into the basement :grinno: For those that are interested, it's a petroleum distillate/kerosene kind of odor.

 

[Bert]

The alkaline/first step (FK1119) works OK IME, and I did well claying while it was dwelling. Even removed some lane-line paint that'd been on there for a long time.

You do claying during the first step and not the second step?

 

[Accumulator]

You do claying during the first step and not the second step?

I do it both ways, depending on what sort of contamination is at issue.



Last two times I was only using the first (alkaline) step, and I clayed while that was dwelling with good results.



If the main issue is *ferrous contamination* I'll clay while the acidic step is dwelling instead to help the acid work more effectively on the rust-blooms.



I might end up claying during *both* steps if something's really contaminted, never had to do that yet though.

 

[Bert]

I do it both ways, depending on what sort of contamination is at issue.



Last two times I was only using the first (alkaline) step, and I clayed while that was dwelling with good results.



If the main issue is *ferrous contamination* I'll clay while the acidic step is dwelling instead to help the acid work more effectively on the rust-blooms.



I might end up claying during *both* steps if something's really contaminted, never had to do that yet though.

Because the instructions tell you to allow the product to dwell on the paint but not to allow the product to dry on the paint, I assume you are letting it dwell only one panel at a time? I just can't see being able to clay fast enough that you could apply it to the entire car and it not dry on you.

 

[Accumulator]

Because the instructions tell you to allow the product to dwell on the paint but not to allow the product to dry on the paint, I assume you are letting it dwell only one panel at a time? I just can't see being able to clay fast enough that you could apply it to the entire car and it not dry on you.

I sorta work panel-by panel but it's more like "big section by big section", maybe dividing the vehicle into thirds. I didn't have much trouble keeping the whole minivan wet while I clayed it, though. Depends how much claying is being done.



And remember that I'm working in a pretty controlled environment, so products don't dry out the way they might in sun/heat/wind. (Gotta watch proximity to the radiant heaters though.)



The last time I used FK1119 it *did* dry in a few areas because I was really claying away, but no harm done. I just rewetted it and carried on. All normal *YMMV* disclaimers notwithstanding, I approach the "don't let it dry!" instructions as a CYA serving suggestion, at least to some degree, especially with the alkaline product. I'm a bit more careful with the acidic stuff.