Stone chip repair----anyone care to try this?

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DETAILKING

New member
I saw this on another board. It's the the way I would do it, but found it interesting, and wonder if anyone would be willing to try this method.

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Get a factory paint touchup kit, fill each chip by loading a Q-tip with the paint and dab on the chip, don't worry about overfill, and then wipe down with a 100% cotten terry loaded with rubbing alcohol, and then follow immediately with a quick machine polish or hand polish. Finally lock it down with a layer of wax
 
It would probably work, but it wouldn't last.



I think the solvents in the polish/wax would interfer with the set up of the touch up paint.



I would stick with David B's method of touch-ups. Might take much longer but do it right or don't do it at all........
 
yeah, sounds like a very temporary sollution at best.



I have had no duribility problems with letting touchup paint dry, and leveling it afterwards. If it isn't broke, don't fix it ;)
 
What about using the Q tip method and then using the towel / IPA wipedown to level it out. That sounds a lot faster than my method, but i am not sure of the results. LET DRY....then wax.
 
I usually try to fill the chip up as much as I can. Sometimes even bubble it up a little. I'll then come back the next day after it dries and sand the bubble down with a circle of sandpaper on the back of a pencil. When it is almost level with the paint I'll get a sanding block and sand the whole area to blend in with paint and then polish it out. I usually wait awhile before I wax a paint touch-up.
 
What about using the Q tip method and then using the towel / IPA wipedown to level it out. That sounds a lot faster than my method, but i am not sure of the results. LET DRY....then wax.
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I tried the IPA wipe, and I really can't get it to level out very well.



If I wiped the area right after I put paint in, it would remove too much paint no matter how lightly I did it. If I waited till the paint was slightly tacky, the IPA didn't do anything?
 
. If I waited till the paint was slightly tacky, the IPA didn't do anything?
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Thats really the strengh of that product, Langfa or whatever its called..I should know cause I use it...Anyway, Im sure its much more effective than Isopropyl. You HAVE to let the touch up dry to the touch, or else youll just wipe it right away...Let it set up for about an hour or two. And make sure you load the chip up enough so that the paint is just over the edges. With a crisp card, and non fuzzy cotton, like a finely stretched cotton t shirt, wrap the card in it, and then with a nice sized drop of the product, just rub gently over it. What youll wind up with is a spot that hardly needs any more work..no leveling. no knocking down..I literlly had a hell of a time finding the spot to check for the quality of the repair when I was done....Pretty effective Id say, and no long waiting required. once you wipe it down, just wait a wk, and then wax...Or a day if you can wait longer :bounce
 
StyleTEG said:
If it isn't broke, don't fix it
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yes but see it IS broke, and we are trying to fix it! Its just whether this method is the best or not! :p :o



I say stick to DavidB's method though.....
 
isn't it a rule that a newly painted surface should never be waxed/sealed for at least 2 months since the paint has to cure fully in order for it to harden?
 
isn't it a rule that a newly painted surface should never be waxed/sealed for at least 2 months since the paint has to cure fully in order for it to harden?
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Yea, for a major panel, sure...I think you can bend the 'rule' a bit for a 1/16" chip.
 
StyleTEG said:




The method DavidB wrote up has always worked extremely well for me, I don't see how its broken?
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I was joking with him....... the paint is broken, in that it has a chip in it. DavidB's method is the best method to fix this though, I agree 100%. :p :up
 
paul e said:




Yea, for a major panel, sure...I think you can bend the 'rule' a bit for a 1/16" chip.
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God, I hope so! I have so many it's driving me bonkers (and keeping me from getting to the "main event"). :(



I'm more and more tempted to try Mother's version of Langka....
 
theveed said:
isn't it a rule that a newly painted surface should never be waxed/sealed for at least 2 months since the paint has to cure fully in order for it to harden?
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Automotive paint is usually a urethane based paint. Touch up paint is usually hi solvent laquer that dries very quickly.
 
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