Steve et al: Please Advise?

cyberized

cyberized

New member
I have several questions that I would appreciate some help with, please.
I just painted my El Camino myself, a Poor Man's Paintjob, used Marine paint and foam rollers and 1" brushes. It is like NEW to me and now I have to FINISH it with my NEW Meq's G110 and PB Products - supposed to all arrive on the 2nd.
1st, let me say, there is something that confuses me about what I now read about the process of detailing out a car. This will date me - BUT - in years' gone by we always would first use a Cleaner/Compound, if necessary, then a Polish, and then lastly, a good Wax. I prepping to get back into doing right by my NEW Elky - I SEE everyone appears to now Wax and then Polish. OR is this just when you use a Polish w Sealant?
I know I don't want to use a Sealant on this new paint for what - 60 days.
I painted with Interlux's Brightside 1 Part Poyurethane paint and it has Teflon in it and they of course recommend their Cleaner/Was which has Teflon too, and then their Polish Sealant w Teflon too.

The PB Products I bought thus far for my finishing this paint job are:
1] SSR 2.5 2] Pro Polish 3] Polish w Carnuba Blue [Elky is Blue] 4] Natty's Blue Wax

I have some small runs and orange peel to wet sand out with 1500 & 2000 W^Dry.......and then plan to use Orange pads and SSR 2.5, then I was going to use the Polish with Carnuba; but saw it lacked leveling ablility, so I made another order for the Pro Polish, thinking that might be needed before the one with Carnuba???
Yesterday I was so glad to find out here in PB thread that you do NOT moisten the pad when using SSR 2.5 - I would have for sure prior to reading this. Are there instructions like this on the bottles? Hope so. Do you also use dry pads in applying those polishes?
I will be getting 4 Orange pads, 2 White, 2 Gray, and 1 Blue in my G110 Kit.......I know it won't take long to load up those cutting pads with Blue paint off of my car.......I did not buy any of the various product to put in water and soak the pads as they get loaded up.......have read where some guys just use Dawn detergent and then rinse them well...don't have Dawn, but do have dish detergent. What about Tri-Sodium Phosphate in a 5 Gal bucket????

Please help me get started off on the RIGHT foot..............and

PS - I used to use one of those California Dusters to take the dust off of my Elky, saved alot of wash jobs.....BUT always felt that they must actually be BAd for your paint job???? What is a BETTER way to do this and not harm your paint job?

PSS - Sorry, this is a "double post"; I just posted this on the PB Forum BUT then noticed that this PB "thread" appears to be alot more active.

TKS Michael :help:
_________________
"I STINK therefore I AM!"
 
Ok i'm not sure about the paint your using but you can see what your doing... and if your harming it you can stop...

Polish= anything either chemical-physically abrasive (compounds and the like also fit in to this) Please not that some sealents(zanio) also call them selves polishes which leads to the mix up.

DAWN=is a type of dish soap if your going to use this to clean your pads any will do..
wash and rinse and then spin dry(yes the pad will be slightly damp but what and you do)

the PC will be slow.. take your time .. it will help.. don't rush..

I'm sure others will chime in..
 
Hi there and welcome to DC!!

It sounds as if you have taken on quite a project. Kudos to you. I do not think that I have the bollocks to do what you have described.

After breaking down the runs and drips with sand paper it is usually most appropriate to use the least agressive product to get the job done. I do not know how hard or soft the paint will be due to your paint application. IF it were me taking on this job I think that I would start off with the SSR 2.5 to clear up marring and scratches. Then follow up with ProPolish to clean the surface. The PwC should most likely come next and last would be a layer or two Natty paste. If you had a rotary you mite be able to start with ProPolish. You mentioned that you were going to use a PC so the process would be as I suggested.

Many manufacturers today inter-mix word such as polishes and sealants. Even when a manufacturer calls something a polish it may be just a sealant. In your case the products you listed: 1] SSR 2.5 2] Pro Polish 3] Polish w Carnuba Blue [Elky is Blue] 4] Natty's Blue Wax is the proper order of use in my book.

I sure hope you post pictures of the final results you certainly have piqued my interest in your project.
 
TKS - It has been quite a project for this Senior Citizen that's for sure - don't have a garage or carport, started all of the hours of PREP work on FEB 12th, borrowed my neighbors' carports when I had to roll on paint - 4-5 coats. Finished the painting part around the 25th of March. It has been worth all of the aches and pains and will be much better when I get the detailing done. YES - I will share some pics when I get done buffing it out.

TKS Michael
 
cwcad has given you the correct advice. This will be a long project with a PC vs a rotary ... I'm also not sure how hard the paint will be after being applied with a roller and how well it will sand. I'd like to see pictures of the car after sanding before you try to polish it out. You also might want to use the Pro Polish before the SSR2.5 .. remember you will need to run the PC at a speed of at least 5-6 to bring back the smoothness and shine and remove the sanding marks. You should also use a block when sanding to make it more uniform. Please post pictures for us after each step so we can advise you on how to proceed. Also remember that it may take many passes with a PC to get your desired results..

good luck :)
 
TKS 2 ALL ! Steve, I am GLAD that YOU responded, I was wondering about Pro Polish vs. the SSR 2.5 I purchased....I thought it would be the other way around, the 2.5 first. Evidentally the Pro Polish is more aggressive than the 2.5 eh? GLAD I decided to go back and order some of the PP after my original order. I plan to take more photos as I go on this part of the adventure and will share...........My Avatar is post paint photo. I will be block sanding with 1500-2000 wet.
Want to SEE kind of a history of this project thus far, go to: Rolled On Forums and under "Projects" SEE 1984 El Camino.

PS - - - I am supposed to get my new G110 delivered here on Tuesday and I see recommend using Speed settings of 5-6; do I spread it around, start out at 1 or 2 and then go up?

IF interested in more info about Painting cars with Rollers, GOOGLE: $50 dollar Paintjob; follow links there to a retired HUGE Moparts Thread.

TKS Michael:thanks
 
cyberized said:
TKS 2 ALL ! Steve, I am GLAD that YOU responded, I was wondering about Pro Polish vs. the SSR 2.5 I purchased....I thought it would be the other way around, the 2.5 first. Evidentally the Pro Polish is more aggressive than the 2.5 eh? GLAD I decided to go back and order some of the PP after my original order. I plan to take more photos as I go on this part of the adventure and will share...........My Avatar is post paint photo. I will be block sanding with 1500-2000 wet.
Want to SEE kind of a history of this project thus far, go to: Rolled On Forums and under "Projects" SEE 1984 El Camino.

PS - - - I am supposed to get my new G110 delivered here on Tuesday and I see recommend using Speed settings of 5-6; do I spread it around, start out at 1 or 2 and then go up?

IF interested in more info about Painting cars with Rollers, GOOGLE: $50 dollar Paintjob; follow links there to a retired HUGE Moparts Thread.

TKS Michael:thanks
Click to expand...

No, ProPolish is not more agressive than SSR2.5. I am sure that Steve was considering that he was not sure how hard your paint would be and one needs to start with the least agressive first so as to not do damage. One can always step up in agressiveness.

I tend to spread my product out at three with a PC and move up to five and six to break down polishes.

Thanks for the link!!
 
TKS cwcad......."Roger dat!" About my Marine Paint it sets up TOUGH as nails......and I probably should have mentioned, I had never heard of Poorboy's Products until "studying" to roller my paint job on the "moparts thread" a fella there in Australia, named "Ausie Driver" painted his ride with Brightside too and then buffed out the rough areas using SSR 2.5 and then Natty's Wax....he gave such raving reviews of their products [was going to buy SSR3 and 1 too] that I ended up "splurging"on PB product w/o ever even trying it. His car came out breautiful - Mirror like finis - hope mine will be the same.

I now have more money in the Finish and Upkeep etc.[G110 + PB and other products] than the actual Paint Job

TKS Michael
 
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