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regal

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I have this white 09 Yaris. It had the door&fender reprayed do to a deer hit. The body shop had zero downdraft and there is a lot of over spray. I am going to try the the chem guys elastic clay, if that doesn't work I'll try laquer thinner + aggressive clay.



I am about to place an order for some polish compounds. I was silly and bought the new PC kit that came with #4 & #1 with 6/5" pads, which reading thru more threads leaves me little options.



I understand you have to try different polishes/pads/clays until you find a combo that works with your paint. My problem is compounded by the fact that I have 2 paints (OEM & Body shop.)



I plan on ordering:



LCC Pads - 3 orange 5.5, 2 white 5.5, 1 finish 5.5

Agrresive clay (not sure on brand)



For polish I am thinking Meg 105/205, then I could jewel with the Pinnacle #1. I have the Klasse AIO+SG for LS. I may find I don't even need the 105, so I am going to order the sample sizes. Are the sample sizes enough to do a complete job on a little Yaris.



I also have a dewalt rotory with the new purple foam/wool pad, but I want to avoid that thing as it always leaves swirls (this was before I had a PC to take them out.)



Any better Ideas, I need to place the order in the next few days so the stuff gets herebefore when I have some scheduled time off work.



Thanks for reading this long thread and feel free to make a different suggestion on the polishes I should have at my disposal for this job. I don't want to be caught with my pants down needing to order a different polish and it gets here after I go back to work. Winter is approaching and I want to get this done and sealed up before the salt trucks.
 
regal said:
I have this white 09 Yaris. It had the door&fender reprayed do to a deer hit. The body shop had zero downdraft and there is a lot of over spray....



The complete detail I did on my pal's '60 Jag was precipitated by an overspray situation, so this is fresh in my mind.



No way to get the shop to fix the overspray?




I am going to try the the chem guys elastic clay, if that doesn't work I'll try laquer thinner + aggressive clay.



Be very careful with lacquer thinner in this case as it'll dissolve the repaint. I didn't use it on the (repainted) Jag.



I am about to place an order for some polish compounds. I was silly and bought the new PC kit that came with #4 & #1 with 6/5" pads, which reading thru more threads leaves me little options.



I'd want to use 4" pads.

I understand you have to try different polishes/pads/clays until you find a combo that works with your paint. My problem is compounded by the fact that I have 2 paints (OEM & Body shop.)



I plan on ordering:



LCC Pads - 3 orange 5.5, 2 white 5.5, 1 finish 5.5

Agrresive clay (not sure on brand)



For polish I am thinking Meg 105/205, then I could jewel with the Pinnacle #1.



Again, I'd use 4" pads instead of the 5.5" ones.



You might find that a very gentle wetsanding is the best way to deal with the overspray. Gentle as in, 4K grit. I didn't have to do that as the M105/orange worked well for what my clay (Sonus gray, used aggressively) left behind.






I have the Klasse AIO+SG for LS.



I wouldn't seal the repainted areas yet.



I may find I don't even need the 105, so I am going to order the sample sizes. Are the sample sizes enough to do a complete job on a little Yaris.



I bet you will need the M105, but yeah, those samples oughta be more than enough. Don't get carried away with the ideas behind the KBM and end up using excessive amounts of product.




I also have a dewalt rotory with the new purple foam/wool pad, but I want to avoid that thing as it always leaves swirls (this was before I had a PC to take them out.)



That might be the way to go for the initial work. See if it's necessary.


I don't want to be caught with my pants down needing to order a different polish and it gets here after I go back to work. Winter is approaching and I want to get this done and sealed up before the salt trucks.



You should be set with what you're considering, but (yeah, once again :o ) I'd go with 4" pads. And you have plenty of time (say, for the paint to cure) before winter.
 
Accumulator said:




No way to get the shop to fix the overspray?



Not sure if Id want a shop messing with my paint any more than necessary. Its just asking for holograms/worse problems.



Accumulator said:
I'd want to use 4" pads.





Again, I'd use 4" pads instead of the 5.5" ones.








but (yeah, once again :o ) I'd go with 4" pads.





Hey, you just need to put 4" pads in your sig. Its starting to get ridiculous :p
 
craigdt said:
Not sure if Id want a shop messing with my paint any more than necessary. Its just asking for holograms/worse problems.



Yeah, that's always a possiblity. Can't say I blame you there...



Hey, you just need to put 4" pads in your sig. Its starting to get ridiculous :p



Heh heh, sounds like I'm getting my opinion across :D
 
craigdt said:
Not sure if Id want a shop messing with my paint any more than necessary. Its just asking for holograms/worse problems.



Yea the cars not going back to that shop, best to do it yourself if you want it done right. I just want to make sure I have enough different products on hand to experiement to find the right combo. I'lll pick up the 4" pads for the over sprayed areas and hopefully get by with 5.5's for the rest of the car.



Thanks for the advice, as you can tell I am very leary of the rotoray I am a painter and my detailing experience is limited even though I've worked with detailers for 20 years. Sounds like the 4" pads +PC can avoid the rotary. What size backing plate do we use for 4" pads on the PC?
 
the saying " better do it yourself if you want it done right" only applies if you have the skills and tools neccesary to do it right. And it sounds like this might be out of your league a little bit. If the body work was done through an insurence claim by all means I would demand they fix it and keep fixing it until it's done exactly the way you want it. This is their screw up make them fix it. I wouldn't touch someone else mistake like this unless I was getting paid some serious cash. That's the entire point behind the insurence claim. if your not 100% satisfied the insurence won't pay them. Take the car into your adjuster and show them the overspray and such. The insurence adjuster will then get in touch with the body shop and make it all work out. You'd be amazed at how quickly a job will get done right if they know they won't get paid otherwise....
 
I'm a 20 yr paint engineer/chemist, more than qualified I could wetsand the whole car spray more clear and buff it with my dewalt if I had the time, just want to get up to date on what "tools" are available, things have changed a lot in 5 years in the detailing side of things in which I haven't been involved with for a while. The KBM is new to me.



Plus the body shop is a 4 hr drive. The overspray is very slight and I'm sure they would laugh at me if I complained.
 
Thats not really fair to you if they would laugh. If you car came in with overspray that would be one thing.. Im with Jake on this one too
 
regal-Based on your last post, it sounds like you can handle this just fine...well, assuming it's not the kind of overspray that's really bonded with the oe paint. Even then it's almost certainly just a matter of very light wetsanding and the requisite buffing to bring back the sanded finish.



My 4" pads are older and I'm not up-to-date on today's offerings. If you haven't already checked out Cyclo Toolmakers , they have a decent selection of 4" pads.
 
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