starting my detail, have question about pad reuse
- Thread starter dbinnc
- Start date
jaybs02
New member
Try to use 1 pad per product or at least clean the pad before changing especially when going to a less aggressive product, there will probably still be product that soaked into the pad.
To be quite honest when you are down to using SSR1 you should be at the point of a polishing pad. I am presuming that the orange is a lite cut pad and might be too aggressive at this stage of the game.
JMHO
"J"
To be quite honest when you are down to using SSR1 you should be at the point of a polishing pad. I am presuming that the orange is a lite cut pad and might be too aggressive at this stage of the game.
JMHO
"J"
I agee with Jaybs02 on both counts. 1) The orange light cut pad isn't the optimal pad choice for SSR1 (***not speaking from specific SSR1 use but rather based on my understanding of the product's intent***) 2) When going from a more aggressive product to one that's less aggressive, it is imperative (IOO, JayBS and mine 
) to change pads. And specifically in your case the polishing pad for the
SSR1.
Your intent of trying the least aggressive approach was correct. FWIW I don't find it too problematic going up to a more aggressive polish on the same pad. It could be argued that one shouldn't mix products on the same pad, but in this case I dont see a problem.
) to change pads. And specifically in your case the polishing pad for the SSR1.
Your intent of trying the least aggressive approach was correct. FWIW I don't find it too problematic going up to a more aggressive polish on the same pad. It could be argued that one shouldn't mix products on the same pad, but in this case I dont see a problem.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
If SSR 2.5 with an orange does not get the correction results, you can just do another pass with the orange pad. The results are slower (less aggressive) but less likely you will be inducing extra marring to remove what the yellow pad may add.
I assume you are using a DA. Be sure your technique is good so you are getting optimal results (cleaning the pad after a few panels, slow passes on each section, correct amount of polish - too much is as bad as too little, letting it breakdown properly).
If you post some pics, everyone may able to give better advice.
I assume you are using a DA. Be sure your technique is good so you are getting optimal results (cleaning the pad after a few panels, slow passes on each section, correct amount of polish - too much is as bad as too little, letting it breakdown properly).
If you post some pics, everyone may able to give better advice.
jaybs02
New member
Yellow is a cutting pad... you want to move down not up.
Get your hands on a polishing pad (white for a number of manufacturers)
Derek, when talking about pads try to refer to the type not the color because different manufacturers use different colors for the same type of pad.
Check the link in my sig to see what I mean.
Get your hands on a polishing pad (white for a number of manufacturers)
Derek, when talking about pads try to refer to the type not the color because different manufacturers use different colors for the same type of pad.
Check the link in my sig to see what I mean.
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
That would appear to be a significant improvement but may need a few more passes. I believe I'm still seeing some (much less) cross hatch marring just below the lights reflection. Good job.
blk45
It's all in the prep!
Some good points mentioned. SSR1 will work best with the white LC pad. As far as mixing products on the same pad, as mentioned, it's not advised, but if you are going up in aggressiveness (to 2.5), it shouldn't be an issue. You can't step back down though unless you throughly clean the pad. If you don't, the 2.5 will limit the potential of the 1 to finish out nicely. Do you have a white LC pad? You shouldn't really be using the SSR1 on the orange pad anyways for optimal results.
To complete your correction, I don't think you need a more aggressive pad. I personally don't care for the yellow LC pad because of the marring it leaves. If you can't achieve the correction that you want with the orange pad, get a PFW pad. It leaves a much nicer finish than a yellow. How many passes did you make and how much pressure did you use? What size pad and what machine were you using? What speed was the machine set on? I would try another pass with some moderate pressure and see if it works.
Once you achieve the correction that you want, then follow it with SSR1 on a white LC pad to really bring out the gloss.
Some great improvement so far!
To complete your correction, I don't think you need a more aggressive pad. I personally don't care for the yellow LC pad because of the marring it leaves. If you can't achieve the correction that you want with the orange pad, get a PFW pad. It leaves a much nicer finish than a yellow. How many passes did you make and how much pressure did you use? What size pad and what machine were you using? What speed was the machine set on? I would try another pass with some moderate pressure and see if it works.
Once you achieve the correction that you want, then follow it with SSR1 on a white LC pad to really bring out the gloss.
Some great improvement so far!
jaybs02
New member
Sometime multiple passes are required to achieve your results, you don't always have to increase the aggressiveness of your combo.
jaybs02
New member
I am a fan of polishing pads.
I have used SSR2.5 with a polishing pad with great results. Then stepped down to SSR1 with a polishing pad to finish it off. SSR1 with a lite cut pad may induce more marring than you are removing.
I have used SSR2.5 with a polishing pad with great results. Then stepped down to SSR1 with a polishing pad to finish it off. SSR1 with a lite cut pad may induce more marring than you are removing.
blk45
It's all in the prep!
You can use SSR1 on an orange pad, but it's not optimal. Yes, the orange pad with 2.5 will work well. You definitely need to apply some pressure to the machine. Approx. 10-15 lbs of pressure. Make sure your hand speed is fairly slow, 1-2" per second. I think you will get the results you are after with these adjustments. Also, make sure that you are doing 2' x 2' areas. When you get larger than that, your results will suffer.
ya i started using more pressure and I did get better results. thanks for all the help.
one thing, i didn't get to finish doing the whole car with ssr2.5 let alone all the protection. should be ok to drive it right? just won't have any protection.
Also, I tend to get dried up powder on the car. any way to prevent that, if not what is the best thing to remove it with? I tried an MF towel, but doesn't totally get rid of it. I went to my cali car duster for the rest.
Derek
one thing, i didn't get to finish doing the whole car with ssr2.5 let alone all the protection. should be ok to drive it right? just won't have any protection.
Also, I tend to get dried up powder on the car. any way to prevent that, if not what is the best thing to remove it with? I tried an MF towel, but doesn't totally get rid of it. I went to my cali car duster for the rest.
Derek
Finally got it all done...
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/detailers-showcase/26751-final-results-first-detail.html
http://www.detailcity.org/forums/detailers-showcase/26751-final-results-first-detail.html