Ssr3

poormanisme

RESIDENT PROCRASTINATOR
I just used some SSR3 for the first time today. All i can say is holy sh*t, this stuff is like liquid sandpaper. It made very short work a few light scratches but it left some light marring of its own, it is some strong stuff. I applied SSR3 by hand followed by Menzerna IP by PC and then PwC by PC and the finish was flawless on a dark red car. I wish i took some pics:wall I also tried some Menzerna FP and that stuff is friggin worthless. it was the hardest stuff i have ever tried to remove from my car. It is one product that i will need to find an alternate use for it b/c its never going on my car again. :mad:
 
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i need some of that stuff for this truck i did today then . man there scratches all over this thing
 
The PB SSR line up is killer I have the SSR2 and use that on about all the cars that I do. Followed up with the P-w-C then glaze and EX the cars look show room when I'm done!!
 
Wait until you try the SSR2.5 what a great product to use after SSR3 or instead of it for many case:D
 
YOU JUST REMINDED ME ... I have a couple questions about SSR 3
Does SSR 3 have diminishing abrasives? It doesn't matter much as I have mixed feelings about them anyway.
Can it be used with a rotary and a PC?
Is it the best SSR product to remove marks from wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit paper?
Didn't mean to hijack this thread ... sorry
 
kimwallace said:
YOU JUST REMINDED ME ... I have a couple questions about SSR 3
Does SSR 3 have diminishing abrasives? It doesn't matter much as I have mixed feelings about them anyway.
Can it be used with a rotary and a PC?
Is it the best SSR product to remove marks from wet sanding with 1500 or 2000 grit paper?
Didn't mean to hijack this thread ... sorry

Yes all the SSR's have diminishing abrasives and all can be used by hand, pc, or rotary...best and quickest results will come from rotary, pc and then hand work.

Just happened to be doing some testing this weekend...I went with some 2000 paper, then SSR2.5 ...it took out 90% of the sanding marks with a pc at 5.5-6, then moved to SSR2 and got about 5% more also at 5-6, then used SSR1 and couldn't see anything but clear reflection at about 3-4 on the pc...

I'll have to get some 1500 to do some further testing...
might be working on a Black f250 tomorrow with haze and holigrams from last person who did buffing :nono tomorrow depending on the weather
 
poormanisme - FP puts a nice shine on a good finish - in my opinion anyway. To remove it, a spritz of 50/50 water and alcohol takes it right off. Since it leaves no fillers, there's no down side with the spritz.

But I used SSR1 for the first time last night and today. :wow If you're not pleased with FP, I say go for the SSR1. That stuff really rocks.
:band

Steve - no fillers left behind with SSR1? It's pretty wet looking. Come on. Spill the beans, What you leaving on there?
;)
 
Unlike most people , I like the original foam pads that come with the pc:dunno I believe this lets me see what the product can do, and not the agressiveness of a pad.
Some new pads and a backing plate are on my birthday wish list:D
 
Poorboy said:


I'll have to get some 1500 to do some further testing...
might be working on a Black f250 tomorrow with haze and holigrams from last person who did buffing :nono tomorrow depending on the weather

Steve, could you take some pics, I would like to see how SSRs work together, btw what does diminishing abrasives mean?

thanks
 
I bought my PC at Lowes and It came with a white foam pad ... Is this what you are referring to?
In my opinion, I do not see much difference between pads ... cutting to polishing or polishing to finishing ... at least the Meg's pads.
 
circus1 said:
Steve, could you take some pics, I would like to see how SSRs work together, btw what does diminishing abrasives mean?

thanks

I probably need awd330 to come over and take pictures...
my computer and i are mentally challenged in those departments:lmfao

Diminishing abrasives mean that they break down as you work, untill they are no longer abrasive at all...these help the users not damage the clearcoats as well as not remove too much paint from a single stage paint .
The abrasives we grew up on did not have diminishing properties and worked as long as you did, which led to many people going right through their finishes, especially with cars from the 40's-70's that had a lot of fins, squared off corners and points compare to todays rounded corners and sleek body styles.
 
Poorboy said:
I probably need awd330 to come over and take pictures...
my computer and i are mentally challenged in those departments:lmfao
Have camera... will travel. :car

Steve - You really need to update to a newer version of "Windoze". :rolleyes: ;)
 
Poorboy said:

my computer and i are mentally challenged in those departments:lmfao


Aha! Now I see why the pics I mailed you never made it to your web site! Now I understand!! You may be as challanged puter-wise as this old guy!. :lmfao
 
I disagree about the pads. You need to use a pad that matches your product. Hell if you want to use a finishing pad with DACP then be my guest, however the job might only require #9. In my opinion it is both the product and the pad that does the work and both are important to achieve a result. I use Lake Country pads, but the Edge are good too. I haven't tried Meg's buffer pads. The buffer is the machine doing the work, so it is important that you outfit it with the best quality pads.
 
Poorboy said:
Wait until you try the SSR2.5 what a great product to use after SSR3 or instead of it for many case:D

Put me down for a bottle when it's ready Steve.
 
Yep. Dug up another old one.:nono
Hey, it has relevance, I think.

So here I am, looking at this brown Buick Skyhawk ('84?). It belongs to an older lady who runs out with a ccd daily and moves it to a shady spot 2 or 3 times a day. From a distance the car looks to be in really good shape, just dull/oxidized. When you get close, you see the dullness is due to the cracked paint:eek .
She says she's waxed it herself for years before, but it's getting too hard now, so she wanted to get someone else to do it. Enter me (girlfriend's mom knows the lady).

So I try another brand of stuff similar to SSR2.5. Didn't work. Left white patterns where the pc went. (Maybe the paint was too dry? Maybe the cracks were catching the product? dunno.) Anyway, I was getting worried. It's bad enough to have a dull car with oxidation on the hood/roof/trunk, but it would be worse to have buffer patterns too!:bigscream

So I figger, What's the worst that can happen? The paint's trashed. Let's experiment. (disclaimer: many "worst that could happen" things can happen! Do not try this at home-especially not on somebody's pride and joy!)
So I get my ssr3-it's been sitting unused for months since I've read about how powerful it is. I get my med cut and heavy cut pads :wait . Yeah I was going all out. Again, this is a car that has cracked paint and was very white-ish with oxidation.

Let me tell you, my confidence in Steve's products just keeps getting higher and higher. Even with ssr3 and a heavy cutting pad (I would not likely even think about this combo on a paint job in decently good shape) I was able to get the oxidation off and smooth the surface without causing more marring (at least none that was noticable on the cracked paint. Non-cracked paint may be another story, but I'm not likely to find that out anytime soon). It broke down easily, wiped off easily and when I finished with the ssr3/heavy cutting pad, I probably could have turned it in as done, there was such a noticable difference. (I didn't. I went over again with ssr2, a glaze (hoping that might 'fill' some of the cracks, and sealed it)

So in closing, I'm happy with ssr3's ability to get rid of heavy oxidation and leave a pretty nice surface behind. I'm even happier with the safety features included at no extra charge so that even the novice/weekend warrior can feel like a "waxing god" without much fear of destroying the car so much that they have to find a real "waxing god" to fix their Oops.:bigups

What's that you say? You with your hands up?
:showpics
Well yes. That would be helpful, but I really didn't think there would be a marked difference, so all I took were afters, which are not developed, and I don't have a scanner hooked up to my computer...
:showorgo
Well then, I guess I'm done here.:-p
 
SSR3 is not so agressive people should be afraid of it. I have only used a rotary 3 times, and just used SSR3 with it at 1700rpm. No problems here. (Because of the high solids content it did gum up a bit but not too bad)
 
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