SSR1 vs. ProPolish

Phideaux

Phideaux

New member
I recently ordered some PB products, SSR1 and ProPolish. After looking at a few more threads on these products, it seems like either would acheive about the same results. Am I correct in this assumption? Would I be better off to send one back and order something else, or hold onto both? My initial thought was to use the SSR1 for taking out minor swirls, etc, going over it with the PP, then some S100 I picked up at the local Harley shop, but now I'm thinking maybe I could save some time and effort by eliminating one of those first two steps.

I will be using it mostly for my black and dark bluish/greenish/jade vehicles with pretty well maintained paint, but will most likely start doing different colors as the weather warms up and I get the word out that I'm for hire.

Thanks,
Steve
 
holland_patrick said:
Pro polish can be Verry aggressive witht he right tool/pad combo.. taking out sanding marks and levaling paint (or clearcoat).
Click to expand...
So it sounds like they both will do the same thing if it is used in a certain way. Is this correct? Would I get different results if I used the PP with say a cutting pad, then with a polishing pad than if I used the SSR1 then the PP w/polishing pad?
 
joe.p said:
Patrick are we leveling the paint or are we actually leveling the clearcoat:confused: ?
Click to expand...
I use the terms interchangabely. Clear coat is paint without pigment so you are removing paint. Base coat/clear coat or single stage you still "level paint" to correct it.
 
ssr 1 is a finishing polish you'll get VERY little correcting out of it.

Propolish will take out sanding marks.
car0028.jpg

car0031.jpg


car0032.jpg
 
holland_patrick said:
clearcoat... sorry ..
Click to expand...
no need to apoligize. I figure if im gonna be serious all this i have a lot learn


Budman Thanks ,i see i have way more to learn..
 
lonewolf0420 said:
Wow so Propolish is more aggresive than SSR1? Am I understanding that correctly? I thought it was the opposite
Click to expand...

So did I. I was under the impression that Propolish was non abrasive and mostly a chemical cleaner.
 
I would assume that a rotary with a wool pad (at least what looks like one in Patrick's pics) would aide in removing the sanding marks.

IIRC Steve did say recently that Pro Polish does have mild abrasives in it. I could be wrong about that though. I do know that SSR1, when worked slowly, can remove buffer haze and the like. Just from what I have read though, Pro Polish will do a lot more "cleaning" of the paint (i.e. stains, etc.).
 
Well my take is that they have different looks and purposes..

SSR1 will buff out to a deep, glossy shine and remove minor swirls and haze from previous products...I'd use it with either a polishing pad or a finishing pad depending on the results you are looking for.

Professional Polish will give a clean and bright look and depending on the paint job, can leave it a little glossy. ..I would use this with an assortment of pads to do different jobs. Wool or a foam cutting pad to remove scratches or even sanding marks as posted above, polishing pads to deep clean paint and remove old products and contaminates ( this is the kind of product we used before clay was around ), or a finishing pad on a well maintained vehicle to prep before a LSP. Professional Polish is also awesome on glass, hard plastics like headlights and motorcycle shields, and works really well on metals too.
 
Poorboy said:
Well my take is that they have different looks and purposes..

SSR1 will buff out to a deep, glossy shine and remove minor swirls and haze from previous products...I'd use it with either a polishing pad or a finishing pad depending on the results you are looking for.

Professional Polish will give a clean and bright look and depending on the paint job, can leave it a little glossy. ..I would use this with an assortment of pads to do different jobs. Wool or a foam cutting pad to remove scratches or even sanding marks as posted above, polishing pads to deep clean paint and remove old products and contaminates ( this is the kind of product we used before clay was around ), or a finishing pad on a well maintained vehicle to prep before a LSP. Professional Polish is also awesome on glass, hard plastics like headlights and motorcycle shields, and works really well on metals too.
Click to expand...


Well still a little confused. What one is more aggressive? Is Propolish abrasive or chemical or both? They sound like similar products to me. Both seem to be light polishes that can be used to remove defects or used as a prep before a LSP.
 
Anthony A said:
Well still a little confused. What one is more aggressive? Is Propolish abrasive or chemical or both? They sound like similar products to me. Both seem to be light polishes that can be used to remove defects or used as a prep before a LSP.
Click to expand...

Look at the pad choices..SSR1 should not be used with cutting pads or wool, only polishing and finishing pads...thus it has only minor correcting ability.
Whereas Professional Polish can be used with all types of pads, can be used not only to clean paint but repair it, and has been used to remove hazing and swirls after 1500 wet sanding, which SSR1 would not be able to do.
 
Poorboy said:
Professional Polish will give a clean and bright look and depending on the paint job, can leave it a little glossy. ..I would use this with an assortment of pads to do different jobs. Wool or a foam cutting pad to remove scratches or even sanding marks as posted above, polishing pads to deep clean paint and remove old products and contaminates ( this is the kind of product we used before clay was around ), or a finishing pad on a well maintained vehicle to prep before a LSP.
Click to expand...
So it sounds like the ProPolish is a versatile, all-around product. I guess like a lot of other products, it will take a little experimtation to see what it can do. Looks like it's time to call on some friends with beater-mobiles and see if they want their hoods buffed out.

Professional Polish is also awesome on glass, hard plastics like headlights and motorcycle shields, and works really well on metals too.
Click to expand...
I'm assuming you would use it by hand for these applications?
 
Phideaux said:
So it sounds like the ProPolish is a versatile, all-around product. I guess like a lot of other products, it will take a little experimtation to see what it can do. Looks like it's time to call on some friends with beater-mobiles and see if they want their hoods buffed out.
Click to expand...

Yes it is very versitile and as pure a polish as there is.

[Quote:]
Professional Polish is also awesome on glass, hard plastics like headlights and motorcycle shields, and works really well on metals too.[/quote]

I'm assuming you would use it by hand for these applications?
Click to expand...

it really depends on what you are correcting...for windshields and side glass I would do it by hand, for clearing a headlight I'd use some 3" pads and a machine, on metals I prefer buffing balls(cotton or synthetic) for badly oxidized , and soft cloths for maintenence of good metal surfaces and chrome plating. I also use it on tiles in the shower and kitchen, on counter tops, appliances, etc...
 
Phideaux said:
So it sounds like the ProPolish is a versatile, all-around product. I guess like a lot of other products, applications?
Click to expand...

I would never say this about ProPolish. It's practically blaspheme! ProPolish is THE MOST versitile product. You can do whatever you want with it. Just don't drink it..... Seriously. If I didn't have so many old products laying around I'd buy a couple gallons of PP and be done with cutting/polish products. Just some ultra fine polishes like SSR1 and then some LSPs.
 
OMG Koop you have returned :) How have you been my friend...it's been a long time :( Hope all is well with you...and also that you pop in more often :howdy
 
when im lookin at buying a polish and/or compound, i look to see what the product is predicted to remove as far as grit...as in 2000 grit scratches, 1500, etc...how do the ssr's compare too with this. each site i've seen that has these doesnt list what ssr1 will remove and ssr and ect. and also if PP will romove the same grits as some compounds, whats the sense of having the others if 1 product can do all that with diff pads?? time issues?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top