SSR1 Questions??????????

M

mookie

New member
I am wondering if I will get the same results using multiple apps of SSR1 as I would with one app of SSR2?

reason I ask is bc I will be using my lil hands to do this and will only be using SSR2 on the hood so don't want to buy a bottle for such a small area if more SSR1 will give similar results.

Also can SSR1 be used the same way as the pure polish such as on glass and other areas of the car?

thanks
 
Ive never used the products before (I'll probably buy them soon), but I have a general understanding of polishing which should enable me to answer your question. I would say Yes, more SSR1 would yield similar results to SSR2. In fact, if you were to use the SSR2, you would be best off following up with SSR1 anyway, so that you get the smoothest possible finish. Polishing a car is just like sanding a rough peice of wood: you start with rough sandpaper and you slowly work you way down to smooth sandpaper. You could have used the smooth sandpaper from the start and still ended up with the same results, it would just take much longer. So if you use SSR1, you are going to have to really rub the sh*t out of the paint for a while, but it will all be the same in the end. Hope this helps.
 
Yes and no. Theoretically you could but it would take MANY applications and mucho time. You will not be disappointed with your purchase of SSR2 and I bet you'll be using it a lot more than you think!
 
Soprano- you don't have to follow up SSR2 with SSR1. They both contain diminishing abrasives and will yield a wax/sealant ready finish. The difference is where they start. SSR2 starts with larger more aggressive abrasive particles giving it more INITIAL bite. Like having sand paper where the grit breaks down as you sand from 100 to 150 to 220 to 300 (damn I should invent that!!).
 
If I had to choose between them..SSR2 is more versitile and as rhillstr said it will yield a wax/sealant ready finish...if you have deeper swirls and scratches ..that's why we came out with 2.5:)
 
rhillstr said:
Soprano- you don't have to follow up SSR2 with SSR1. They both contain diminishing abrasives and will yield a wax/sealant ready finish. The difference is where they start. SSR2 starts with larger more aggressive abrasive particles giving it more INITIAL bite. Like having sand paper where the grit breaks down as you sand from 100 to 150 to 220 to 300 (damn I should invent that!!).
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Thanks for the info, I didn't know the SSR's used them. I was just speaking from general knowledge and most polishes are not deminishing. But I keep hearing good things about the SSR's so I guess I'll have to try them first hand.
 
I wanna order some ssr2, but I am worried about how it works, is there any risk in scratching my truck if I apply it wrong. I will be applying by hand, and I guess you just use it the same way as any polish or wax right?
 
thanks for all your responses.

as for question 2 I posted

Also can SSR1 or SSR2 be used the same way as the pure polish such as on glass and other areas of the car?
 
The only concern would be whether or not the abrasives in the polish could scratch the other surfaces. I'm not familiar enough with the products to answer that one, but Steve is on right now so give him a few minutes and I'm sure he'll respond...
 
You will get a helluva lot more gloss and wetness from SSR1 than you will from 2.5. Personally, I would not end with a medium polish before waxing/sealing, I would step down to a final polish before that. Remember, detailing is 80% prep work......
 
:yeah
The wax or sealant we put on top is only protecting the work we did before.
SSR 1 on a polishing or finishing pad at max speed on the PC will give you a wet shine that is worthy of the best sealant or wax.
If you want your last coat to perform and look better ... take more time on the prep work!
It is worth your time
 
ok, well i wouldnt wax/seal after SSR2.5 obviously, but can you wax/seal after SSR2? I mean i know you CAN, but for optimal results should you step down to SSR1, or does SSR2 bascially turn into SSR1 as the abrasives breakdown?
 
:nono

SSR2 or 2.5 is nothing like SSR1. Both 2 and 2.5 will leave a tad bit of haze, and that is where a mild polish comes into play. No shortcuts on this one!
 
I had a similar question about the proper follow up to DACP (similar to SSR2.5). You can't go to sealant from SSR2 or 2.5 or DACP without first following up with SSR1.

I use SSR1 for everything. Gonna do my laundry with it today.
 
2drtahoez71 said:
ok, well i wouldnt wax/seal after SSR2.5 obviously, but can you wax/seal after SSR2? I mean i know you CAN, but for optimal results should you step down to SSR1, or does SSR2 bascially turn into SSR1 as the abrasives breakdown?
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I totally agree that detailing is all in the prepwork!

However, here is some food for thought...
If you work SSR2 long enough it will not leave a haze and will leave a finish ready surface. Again folks, the abrasives break down and if you work it long enough the end product is IDENTICAL to SSR1. You must remember to work a small area so as the product breaks down and gets smaller, all the work area gets buffed with it. I rarely use SSR1. I intially work an area to see if the scratches will be removed with it, then if they are not I proceed to step up to SSR2 and finish my paint correction there. I have not used 2.5 yet so I cannot comment if it works down to a finish ready shine as well. Now then if the finish is not perfect I will hit it wil Pro Polish, which is what it's intended for. You can use SSR1, but from SSR2 to PP you save a step and IMHO get an equivalent (if not better) finish using PP. You can reference my Ferrari pics if you would like the see the end result. Nick, I have seen your work and you do a fantastic job. Keep it up!


Also, I use a polishing pad (white LC) with SSR2. Many use a cutting pad and THAT may be why you end with a finish that is a bit hazy. Steve always said, "let the product do the work" so I tried his suggestion of a polishing pad instead of cutting and I've never gone back! I use cutting if and only if I need more aggressive correction.
 
freedre said:
I had a similar question about the proper follow up to DACP (similar to SSR2.5). You can't go to sealant from SSR2 or 2.5 or DACP without first following up with SSR1.

I use SSR1 for everything. Gonna do my laundry with it today.
Click to expand...

Detailing is not a procedure where you follow your regimen blindly. You have to have an algorithm where you do a step, ask yourself where do I go from here and do it. Thus if your car needs SSR2, polish with it then step back and look at the product. The surface should glossy and perfect as if it has been waxed already when you finish polishing. If it's looks complete, seal/wax it. If not continue polishing using whatever you deem necessary.

Over time you get a sense of where to go after each step. Until then use trial and error. See what SSR1 does after SSR2 with your pads, buffer, and technique!
 
Right,
Sometimes on some colors SSR 2 will leave a ready to wax finish.
Same with DACP.
However when I want a car to look its absolute best, I will take that extra step and use SSR 1.
Each person must decide for themselves what look you want to achieve
 
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