Spritz pad with water while polishing instead of adding more polish?

dfoxengr

New member
I probably do this every once in awhile but to conserve polish can I spray a little every time the pad runs dry? Maybe add polish, run dry, spray water, run dry, add more polish, repeat?



Could you spray water twice? How would you know when it's not bringing any more polish to the surface?



Thanks.
 
I think you're basically talking about spit shining. You mist a section with a QD (I've used Showtime), mist an applicator with the QD and then apply wax and massage it in, let it haze, mist the section again with the QD and remove. You can use water in place of QD and some people recommend keeping the QD or water chilled. This is sort of a pain in the butt but it does produce a fine shine. I still spit shine my shoes - about the only habit left over from the Army.
 
(Polishing) Using Water



Adding water increases the abrasive abilities but at the same time reduces lubrication by displacing some of the lubricating oils. Very similar result are obtained when your wet-sanding; the more surface water the less the abrasive the finishing paper becomes.



Separation of oil and water is caused by a tension in the surface between dissimilar liquids. As water (or a water - oil emulsion) for all intents and purposes is incompressible, so that the pad and the abrasive don’t have actual surface contact, due to the pad hydroplaning.



When this condition is encountered a layer of water builds up between the surface and the abrasive, thereby negatively impacting the abrasive abilities of the polishing process, unless this water is displaced from the surface and the pad via centrifugal force, because the pad cannot in effect "squeegee" the water from the surface.



Adding distilled water or 1:1 solution of distilled water / Meguiar’s® M34 Final Inspection keeps the working area wet by misting the surface. Be cautious as spraying excess water can cause the foam pads to aquaplane



Once the polish starts to vaporize (flash) its abrasive ability will drop of to zero, but instead of adding more polish, which will form a semi-solid between the pad and the paint surface, this hardened residue will scour the paint surface.



Using a mist of distilled water while compounding helps; not just for pad / surface cooling, but it can increase the abrasive ability by keeping the pad surface clean and re-liquefying the polish enabling the pad to work the way it was designed to. allowing you to use the polish efficiently before more is needed, it also creates less dust, avoids fibre twisting (wool or microfibre) and positions them more closely together, which increasing their levelling ability.



Although this helps to clean the pads cutting surface it doesn’t take the place of a freshly cleaned pad, it’s very important to periodically replace the working pad for a clean and primed pad.



Water is similarly used when sharpening knives on a stone, this helps to keep the blade cool and at the same provides a lubricant, which improves the abrasive ability of the stone and it also helps by removing abraded debris from the blade edge. I also add mineral oil to the stone to lessen surface resistance and to improve lubrication.



Most quick detailer or pad conditioners are usually formulated with silicones, oils, waxes, polymers or gloss enhancers, which will negatively affect the polish abrasive abilities (an exception is Meguiar’s® Last Touch Detail Spray diluted 1:1 distilled water) (See also Foam Pad Priming)

Polishing pads can "load-up" with residues, especially when polishes or compounds become saturated, thus reducing their effectiveness; you should always be able to see the pores of the pad. It’s always advisable to clean and/or replace pads as necessary




a) Rotary - using a spritz of water will increase the abrasive ability of a pad / polish combination and; the centrifugal inertia created by the machine would help to return the abrasive to the paint surface. If the pad is not kept clean (especially when using a water spritz), the abrasives and oxidized paint residue tend to accumulate onto the pads membrane structure, and stay there; this does not work with all compounds.



b) Random orbital - it’s not generally recommend implementing this with a random orbital unless this water is displaced from the surface and the pad via centrifugal force. The main reason for this is typically, a lack of centrifugal motion, because there is less high speed rotation of the pad, so the residues tend to stay where they are compared to using the same setup with a rotary(Based upon methodologies suggested by Kevin Brown)
 
dfoxengr said:
I probably do this every once in awhile but to conserve polish can I spray a little every time the pad runs dry? Maybe add polish, run dry, spray water, run dry, add more polish, repeat?



Could you spray water twice? How would you know when it's not bringing any more polish to the surface?



Thanks.



What TOGWT posted, but I'd be a bit careful that you don't a) increase the cut more than you intend to do, b) use it instead of cleaning/reloading the pad, c) get clumping on the pad.



A "clean" QD you can use for this is Meguiar's Final Inspection (M34). Zero issues with silicons/etc., works fine.



E-jag said:
I think you're basically talking about spit shining...



Different topic, he's doing it with abrasives.



You ever try the spitshining-with-QD while applying with a buffer? I do it from time to time and while it compromises durability a *little* bit, it sure does give a nice finish, and the most spherical beads I've ever achieved. I call this "Pseudo-spitshining" as it's not *quite* the same thing; purists might argue that with "true" spit-shining there's generally zero haze as you work the stuff until it's basically gone, only needing a very light final buff.



How do you do it when spit-shining shoes? Noting that I'm a civilian, who learned from an old shoeshine guy, I do the "work it until it's gone" for the final passes (maybe the last four-six), only letting it haze for the first coats (maybe the first four-twelve, or more for new shoes, depending what I'm doing). I've heard veterans say to do it both ways, wonder if it's a branch-of-service diff or something :think:
 
Accum, yes, on the rare occasion when I "spit shine" portions of the car I use a buffer. It does produce a great shine but I'm just too old and lazy to do it much. When spit shining shoes, I put some water in the lid of the shoe polish can, then wet part of a soft cloth, dip it in the polish and start rubbing. I frequently re-wet the cloth and add more polish. You're right, it never hazes; I just keep rubbing with the wet cloth and polish until the leather is as shiny as it's gonna get. When you quit, the shoe is dry. Oddly, I don't mind doing that, kind of enjoy it. Only the Shadow knows.
 
E-Jag said:
Accum, yes, on the rare occasion when I "spit shine" portions of the car I use a buffer. It does produce a great shine but I'm just too old and lazy to do it much..



Heh heh, sounds like you and I have more in common than just an appreciation of old Jaguars :D



.. When spit shining shoes...



Ah we're on the same page there too, except that I use a spray bottle for the water.



Gotta admit though, I don't really *enjoy* it..sometimes find it a bit of a challenge to keep at it long enough to get the ultimate in results. I remember sitting in the chair while the guy did mine (it was a Friday ritual for me right up until the shop closed) and thinking "sheesh, this sure takes time...and man is he working hard!". I tell ya, he *earned* his $ every time and *that* experience was truly a pleasure for me. To this day I won't say I can get 'em as nice as Willie did.
 
TOGWT said:
(Polishing) Using Water



Adding water increases the abrasive abilities but at the same time reduces lubrication by displacing some of the lubricating oils. Very similar result are obtained when your wet-sanding; the more surface water the less the abrasive the finishing paper becomes.



Separation of oil and water is caused by a tension in the surface between dissimilar liquids. As water (or a water - oil emulsion) for all intents and purposes is incompressible, so that the pad and the abrasive don’t have actual surface contact, due to the pad hydroplaning.







Jon, I believe you are actually incorrect about this. Wetsanding is actually more abrasive than dry sanding, as the water keeps the sandpaper cleaner which makes it more abrasive. Dry sanding actually clogs the paper and creates a finer grade.
 
Do what I do - avoid situations where you might have to wear dress shoes. Lot easier to not mind spit shining then.
 
E-Jag said:
Do what I do - avoid situations where you might have to wear dress shoes. Lot easier to not mind spit shining then.



Heh heh, I'd have to avoid leaving the house! I probably wear dress shoes (or at least nice casual shoes from Allen Edunds that get treated the same way) at least 90% of the time. My "don't spitshine 'em" shoes are pretty much relegated to "this is gonna be messy!"-type outings with the dogs. Yeah...many might say I'm a bit on on the over-dressed side :o
 
By the way, Accumulator, that wasn't meant as a slight - you've no idea how much I miss Ward, like every time I see some guy with his pants belted below his butt.
 
JohnKleven said:
Jon, I believe you are actually incorrect about this. Wetsanding is actually more abrasive than dry sanding, as the water keeps the sandpaper cleaner which makes it more abrasive. Dry sanding actually clogs the paper and creates a finer grade.



You may have a valid point- my thoughts were that water lifts the paper from the surface lessening the abrasive contact (food for thought)...
 
Back
Top