Spring Detail... many questions

inkedup

inkedup

New member
Ive had my TSX for about a year and a half now. When I first bought it I did a quick claying and then applied 2 coats of EX-P and 2 coats of NB. Since I have re-applied a coat of NB about every 3-5 months but I havent really stripped any of the product, just a spot polishing here and there.

The car is garage kept and only driven on sunny days (doesnt even see rain) so the paint is still in exceptional condition besides some random very light barely noticable marring.

This spring Id liked to start fresh and I have a brand new bottle of FK1 1119 (wax & detail pre-cleaner) that I would like to use. Do you guys think it would still be neccesary to clay after using 1119?

I plan on washing with 1119, then polish with PWS, followed by 1 coat of EX-P and 2 coats of NB.

Also I have a bottle FK1 300 hand poly glaze, where could I work that into my detail, after the EX-P?

Is it safe just to add a coat of NB every 3-5 months after my spring detail for about a year or so? I would only be waxing the car after a good wash but I wouldnt be stripping any of the old product.

Think thats it... sorry for the long post :D
 
To tell wether or not the vehicle needs to be clayed I would put a sandwich baggie over my hand and place my fingers on the paint. If your fingers feel nothing but smooth paint claying is not necessary. If you do feel contaminants on the paint, clay that section, then re-employ the baggie method to see if there is a change in the feel of the paint. Go over each every area with the baggie to make sure that a section needs to be clayed.

I would use the glaze mentioned after using PWS and before EX-P.

Depending how harsh the shampoo that you are using is I would think that an addition of a coat of NB would be well warranted.
 
So do you guys reccomend I use the FK1 300 glaze before the EX-P or would I be better off not using at all?

If its going to affect the durability of the sealant Id rather not use it.
 
I am not personally familiar with this product or glazes in general but I would GUESS that it would be alright.

You could do a test strip on the hood to see if there is an effect and report back to us your findings?
 
I looked at FK1's site and it really didn't say too much whether or not it could be used under a sealant. If you are feeling adventurous you could give it a try and let us know how it holds up
 
to my knowledge a glaze under a sealant may not be a good thing because of the oils and fillers in some or all glazes, the sealant won't bond as well imo.
 
inkedup said:
So do you guys reccomend I use the FK1 300 glaze before the EX-P or would I be better off not using at all?

If its going to affect the durability of the sealant Id rather not use it.
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Generally glazes wash off and they can't be "sealed in" with a sealant. Some have corrective properties to them but most are just make-up for a car that hides imperfections rather than corrects them. Adding a sealant on top of them will work but a glaze will compromise how well that sealant works and I wouldn't recommend it.

(This is generally speaking. I have not used the FK1 300 Glaze so I do not know it's capabilities.)
 
OK, thanks for the info everybody.

I got the FK1 300 glaze as a freebie with a large order I placed a few months ago, just trying to find a use for the stuff.

Is there any glazes out there that can be used on top of a sealant and wax?
 
inkedup said:
OK, thanks for the info everybody.

I got the FK1 300 glaze as a freebie with a large order I placed a few months ago, just trying to find a use for the stuff.

Is there any glazes out there that can be used on top of a sealant and wax?
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There are products out there that are called glazes but really aren't so in those cases it's possible but with most glazes they have too much paint cleaning ability which would most likely remove the sealant or wax.
 
Well I guess that raises two questions for me:
1. "There are products out there that are called glazes but really aren't"- what are they then?

2. "most glazes they have too much paint cleaning ability which would most likely remove the sealant or wax."- What good are they if they remove whatever protectant is on the car?

I am really confused now, I have a bottle of Meg's #7 and they recommend applying #26 afterward and now I'm wondering if that is a good thing.

Erik
 
ekkoville said:
Well I guess that raises two questions for me:
1. "There are products out there that are called glazes but really aren't"- what are they then?
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Some companies use the word "glaze" in the name of their sealant. Some will use the word to describe a paint cleaner which does not have hiding characteristics.

ekkoville said:
2. "most glazes they have too much paint cleaning ability which would most likely remove the sealant or wax."- What good are they if they remove whatever protectant is on the car?
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Again I am speaking generally here. There are exceptions like I mentioned above. Every glaze I have ever used was meant to be a one-step "quick fix" product. They aren't intended to be put over sealants or waxes.

ekkoville said:
I am really confused now, I have a bottle of Meg's #7 and they recommend applying #26 afterward and now I'm wondering if that is a good thing.
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Sorry to confuse you. That combination works well for car shows and if you plan on keeping your car out of the elements but that is not a very durable combo IMO. I am not discrediting Meguiar's in any way. I am just saying that even in their own line there are much better products to use on daily drivers for durability.
 
I've used 300 FK1 pink hand glaze and 3M IHG and one other glaze....I have had no bonding issues with topping that with a sealant....its one of the many steps that I take in my details.
 
Thanks Troy.
Beemmerboy, what would the bonding issues look like or what would I recognize as a bonding failure if I put the wrong combo together?
 
ekkoville said:
Thanks Troy.
Beemmerboy, what would the bonding issues look like or what would I recognize as a bonding failure if I put the wrong combo together?
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That's a great question and has been discussed here...I notice that the product starts to streak somewhat, looks like there is still something on the surface....sort of a faint looking streak...MOST glazes have a high oil content so laying something on that at times can create a bonding issues...I have made it a practice of taking off the residue of the glazes that I work with, using ice cold water in a spray bottle...this helps to harden the oils and allows for a better surface to lay the LSP
 
Beemerboy said:
I have made it a practice of taking off the residue of the glazes that I work with, using ice cold water in a spray bottle...this helps to harden the oils and allows for a better surface to lay the LSP
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Do you use this technique when removing sealants and waxes as well?

Think Im going to give it a try :D
 
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