Spray Sealants

C

colinc

New member
I'm detailing a 98 Maxum with some pretty bad oxidation. It is white with some maroon on it. I was wondering if it is ok to use automotive compounds (FI2 or Meguiars #2) on a boat's finish?
 
Colin ... This could be a bear of a job. The cheaper gelcoats are tough to restore once they're gone. A quality gelcoat will come back and typically will not chalk (oxidize) anywhere near as badly as the cheap gelcoats do. The cheap gelcoats are soft while the quality gelcoats are hard and have a tendency to develop fine stress cracks due to that hardness. I'd walk away from this job if you determine this to be cheap gelcoat as you'll be unhappy with the results as will your customer.



A pro would probably start with wet or dry paper but, like automotive finishes, this isn't for someone who hasn't a good deal of prior experience.



3M makes a product that would likely serve the gelcoat newbie well. They call it their "Marine Preferred Oxidation Removal/Reconditioning System". I haven't used it but it is a mass market thing and is undoubtedly reasonably safe.



Gelcoat requires more effort than an oxidized paint does and I think you'd probably look like Charles Atlas before you made noticeable headway with automotive-type abrasives.
 
I haev detailed many boats, and we're here is right on. If it is cauky, sometimes it is very difficult to bring back any shine at all......



I dislike 3M's marine line and their marnine cleaner wax is very difficult to work with. I use Zaino on my boat as the gel coat is in like new condition. My dads boat was slightly oxidized and we used some finesse it SMR on it with a machine. It worked great. We finished up with NU FINISH (his favorite on boats as it cleans everything...) and it looks good and lasts almost the whole season...........
 
As detailking correctly points out, the trick is to prevent the finish from going where the Maxum's apparently is now. The UV exposure on boats is brutal but four seasons is still a bit youngish for anything but a cheap gelcoat to go belly-up. An expensive, two-part polyurethane (Awlgrip, Imron or similar) paint job, professionally-applied in a controlled environment may be the only realistic option here.
 
My family owned a 21' 1990 Maxum for many years. It was solid maroon and faded every year. I would recommend using something like Nu Finish, or similar abraisive. We used Soft Scrub (forget which one and it worked!!!!) As others have said, the key is preventing it from happening, the gel coat should bounce right back. Ours always did!!! How I miss that boat...it would really come in handy now...girls...coolers...err... I should stop now. :D
 
Yep - I'm a boat guy too. Fiberglass is porous - even gelcoat - and problems can actually crop up from the inside. Nowhere is it more true than an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. This boat is only 4 years old? I bet he stored it outside, without a cover. What a shame.



Sometimes the only cure is to sand and paint with an epoxy paint, which will hold up a lot better. Make sure whatever you use has PLENTY of UV protection. since it hasn't been mentioned yet I will also let you konw that Meguiar's has a marine-specific product line.
 
I just used ONR and it worked great. I tried to use spray sealant afterwards for added protection. The temp is about 30 degrees here in Chicago but the sealant doesn't seem to want to dry. Is there a minimum temperature to use the spray sealants?
 
Try using a very plush MF. Spread it around with one side of the towel, and wipe dry with the other. The temp. really shouldn't matter much.
 
firebird said:
I just used ONR and it worked great. I tried to use spray sealant afterwards for added protection. The temp is about 30 degrees here in Chicago but the sealant doesn't seem to want to dry. Is there a minimum temperature to use the spray sealants?
Click to expand...

The cold temperature is probably slowing the rate the solvent is evaporating at, which can effect the ability of the polymers to bond to other polymers. It is my understanding that polymer's work a lot like little worms that 'curl' to forum a coating that would be similar to chain-mail or a chain link fence. If the polymers curl onto themselves (and not to other polymers) you could get a greasy looking mess of solid product that is difficult to remove.

While the minimum temperature of each product is going to depend on the individual characteristics of that particular product, I would try to avoid using anything when it is cold (not cool) to the touch.

Try wiping the car down with a lightly damp towel (damp with distilled water) and wipe the car down.​
 
Blackfire spray sealant weather permitting ( doesn't like the cold) But the protection seems very good if it's just warm enough to wipe down did it here around 35 degrees it also works wonders on my gloss black appliances especially my fridge samsung smooth gloss black has reflections like a car now lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top