?? Spider Webbing - minimalized ??

57chevy

57chevy

57Chevy
What is the best way to minimize Spider Webbing or minute eching when removing Products?

It seems that no matter what product I try there is always what appears to be fine scratches or etching. Generally, these are most visible when observing the finish from various angles but they are still there.

I have tried MF Towels, Terry Cloth and Polishing Cloths. Is there a wiping process that completely eliminates these all together? Is there a secret to buffing and polishing?

I'm mostly referring to removing waxes. How is that concours finish produced?

I suspect it is layer upon layer upon layer upon layer of WAX?

:mad:
 
These might be stupid questions but ...
1. Do you use softner when washing your towels? It will cause streaking
2. Do you remove all traces of the previous product before moving on to the next?
3. Do you keep wax/sealant removal towels completely separate from the others?
These are some things I had to look at for myself a few years back
Also make sure to use a good quality MF ... The ones from Walmart left the type of marks you are talking about in my paint.
Hope this helps!
 
KimW, thanks for the reply. To answer your questions all good by the way.

1) No softner in the washing process. Some of these MF's were brand new when I sued them. So they hadn't been washed yet.

2) Yes. I buff off all existing product before switching.

3) Clean MF for each product. I don't mix them except in the washer. Hang to dry.

The only other comment is the quality of the MF. I purchased these at Target and they are made by "Baja Sol" I think that was the name. They seem to have an extensive line of detailing tools and such. Maybe this is the problem.

But my polishing cloths are 100% flannel and very soft.

I was thinking it might be product reside causing the minute etching as I wipe the surface free of the dried compounds. Maybe?
 
Meguiars recomends using Final Inspection as you remove some of their polishes. I have done this if I have used too much and it is difficult to remove. Depending on what polishes you use, this might help.
Sometimes I have actually washed the car completely after applying polish with a rotary ... that is one way to get everything out of the cracks.
I have been buying my MF towels from PAC. I use their 16x16 and I just tried the Mullet Wax polishing towel. These are awesome towels. Like I said earlier I had prblems with the MF towels from walmart ... even after washing them ... So many things to pay attention to ... Good Luck
 
Here is a method that has worked for me time and time again...

Using diapers - fold one in half, then fold back the wings (see diagram below). Mist with a little water, or if you choose, Final Inspection only on one side. DO NOT SATURATE DIAPER. Apply wax/glaze to the diaper on one side and blend lightly into the towel. Apply using a flat palm in a 2'x2' section working side to side on the tops, and up and down on the sides. Fold the wings back the other direction (over the wax/glaze side), flip the diaper, and immediately buff the wax/glaze off working front to back. Repeat this method in overlapping sections working all the way around the vehicle. It will take a couple of times to get the "feel" for this, but if used properly you will be amazed.

folds.jpg


P.S.I accept that many of you out there will swear by the new MF towels, but for me, I think diapers still do a much better job.
 
one other suggestion...


If you are using compounds, polishes with abrasives, or machine buffing... rinse and dry the vehicle in between stages.

:)
 
Dr. "D", Thanks, but this raises a question about waxes like NXT that recommend you let cure for 15 minutes or more. Will this method still work?
 
57 ..i think you answered some of your own questions....Target mf will leave those marks...

second using a cleaner to remove wax will REMOVE the good wax too....if you must a damp mf will also help. Also check the threads on mf...there are quite a few good to read and they will explain which mf works best for each situation...
Doc...there are some people who still get very good results with diapers, but with the great selection of mf's available now, they just are better and easier to use....that being said there is a place and time still for diapers, and the use of cotton, especially when working by hand:D
 
Thanks Poorboy,
I need to learn to clarify my posts a little better.
I always remove wax/sealants with a dry MF ...
However I will use a cleaner many times to help remove polishes that are difficult to remove.
I believe it is always best to follow the manufactures directions when removing product ... especially waxes and sealants. I am sure that most of them have done considerable testing before writing the instructions on the bottle.
I will try to be clearer with my responses in the future!
 
57chevy said:
Dr. "D", Thanks, but this raises a question about waxes like NXT that recommend you let cure for 15 minutes or more. Will this method still work?
Click to expand...

Chevy57, are you asking about a "wax" or a "sealant?"

I have never heard of a true "wax" that needed to be left on to cure. A true wax will, if left to sit on a vehicle, be hard to remove (try using some Johnson's Paste Wax as an example). It's my understanding that waxes sit upon the surface of the paint and help form a protective barrier from the elements. Sealants, on the other hand, some of which are recommended to be left on for a given amount of time so they may "bond" to or with the paint. If they actually "bond" to a painted surface I will let you be the judge. I do have an old bottle of "Poly-gly-coat" sitting in my collection of auto beauty products surmassed over the years ;)

I tend to steer away from any product that recommends it be left on the vehicle to dry and then be wiped away. Many leave behind a powdery residue which find can contribute to light towel scratching.
 
dr_detail
Many here at DC use various sealants such as NXT, UPP, EX and many others that I cannot remember.
They provide a carity and shine that many true waxes (carnubas) cannot achieve. They also are longer lasting. Many of the newer sealants do not leave that powdery residue like many older products.
The secret to using many of these is in the thin application.
Many of us after using a sealant for durability then apply a carnuba on top for a wetter, deeper or whatever you are looking for look.
That said I believe most of the shine and depth is achieved in the prep stages such as polishing, etc.
It is amazing what can be achieved using many of the modern products and even sometimes mixing them with some older ones. This can all be done without intruducing scratches into the paint if done properly.
Sorry 57 to get off topic ... Please Forgive Me!
 
Good points KW...today's waxes and polymers are not the same as your "Polyglicoat" ....
ease of use has changed with evolved solvents and water-based emulsions.
Dusting as people used to know are very few and far between in todays products.
That being said, almost everywax..s100/p21s aside, have always said to let dry to a haze, the beauty of todays waxes are that they are much more forgiving for those who want to apply it to an entire vehicle and still be able to wipe it off with little or no effort. Some waxes can even be left on for indefinite periods of time and will take on a slightly better sheen and glow for the wait, without the worry of inducing scratches during removal or dusting.:D
 
Believe me when I say: I am not knocking any of the new products or formulas sold today, nor those sold by members of this board; I was more trying to educate, and share what works for me. Whatever product one chooses to use, the real "art" in our craft falls into, as kimwallace so eloquently wrote "the prep stages such as polishing..."

I referred to the poly-gly-coat as just an example of the numerous claims found throughout the years upon the millions of products marketed in this billion $$ a year industry. How many bottles of "Nu-Finsh" do you think were sold in the 70's, or "Color-Wax" in the 90's? I ask, also how many reading this have ever picked up a Sioux polisher and rubbed out a '58 Black Buick Century Limited prior to the invention of "foam pads" and left it with a swirl-free finish*?

There is more to Detailing I think, than just "wax-on wax-off." Wisdom only comes from experience. The tricks of the trade haven't changed much over the years, but the quality and ease of use has... when the techniques of the past are combined with the technology of today however, everyones vehicle shines better.

Having said all that, I have seen many products come and go and can tell you that I have seen many products custom colored and labeled. I even had it done. But amazingly enough the products and techniques used on that Buick, still work with even more ease using todays technologies.

I try to share my experience with others in a "totally unbiased and impartial" area of this forum and, I hope others will as well.


*I have
 
All good stuff. This is what I and others getting started like to see and read. I always re-read the label for the instructions before applying and some I can quote. I will certainly take this information to heart and try some of the suggestions here. It may be the MF's are a lower quality or perhaps I applied to much wax and buffing the residue away is causing the minor etching. I'm striving for that perfect mirror shine and with you guys on my side and your insight I will achieve it and I too can help others along the path to Detailing. I have a detail job line up this Friday be looking for the pictures.

Thank You Master(s)

Young Grass-hopper
 
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