Soon to be wife bought Nissan Rogue (Charcoal)

R

rauljimenez

New member
Hello guys !!!! my soon to be wife just bought a Nissan Rogue 2008 couple of weeks ago. The thing started out quickly with a fight in the dealer where she bought the SUV ...



I was to the point of yelling to her because she wanted the car washed by a pressure washer @ the dealer before getting it out brand new... I almost had a heart attack right there but I pulled my "we are not getting married if they wash that SUV, I'll wash it for you honey as soon as we get home thing" and miraculously she agreed ........



thanks god the worst part was over :woot2: . I arrive at home , get 2 wash mitts ( lamb mitts ) and started cleaning the paint very slowly , hell I think it took me 1 hour or more to clean that paint cause I was worried I would marr the paint ... she offered to help me out but I stopped her on her tracks again thanks god!! :sign .



After the cleaning I inspected the paint for contaminants using the plastic bag system... and oh my god... contaminants are felt!!!! but I was all tired and ended up in bed instead of getting my MOTHER'S CLAY BAR!!!.



Next day started my autopia knowledge hunting !!! stayed reading in here for 8-10 hours non-stop on how to approach and the best method to do it, but of course now I need your help in deciding where to go!!!! I'm gonna do a complete wash with all the bonus included ( mind you i want my soon to be wife to be proud of her SUV and of me ofc)



Here is the process I am going to do :



1) Wash Car slowly using 2 mitss with the 2 wash system . Dry with Microfiber towels slowly and not in circular motions but in straight motions.



2)After the car is washed and dried . I'm gonna use MOTHER'S CLAY BAR and clay the entire car until is silk smooth or glass smooth , whichever is preferred :think2



3) Here comes the part where autopia comes to my rescue:



Do you guys think I should approach and get some Klasse AIO in there followed by KSG?? and if I do that approach after I have the sealant glaze cured , what else could I top it off??



Basically I'm looking more for PROTECTION and DURABILITY than the wet and glossy look since I live in the tropics ( Puerto Rico , Caribbean ) and the car is not garaged , daily driver etc.





I could also opt to go with the Duragloss line , Doing a 101 followed by a 105 and then Aquawax , would that work too?? Would I need to add a AIO like KAIO before using say 105??



All help would be appreciated, thanks again for all the invaluable knowledge autopia has given me and I hope to continue learning.
 
You could go either route and I am sure it would look great. I can tell you that the Klasse AIO and SG combo will last longer than the DG AW route. If you are looking at longevity also look at the Jeff Werkstats and Zaino line up as the both look good and provide a good amount of protection.
 
I would blot dry, there's less chance of marring. After i blot dry i always use a quick detailer for any water spots and to help give it some added gloss.



Be careful when you are claying. Use lots of lube and inspect the clay often. Before you kneed the clay wipe off the excess lube and pick out any large pieces of debris.



LSP's are a matter of preference. If you have the klasse you might as well use it. Layer it and it should offer good protection.
 
Guys if I go the Klasse way , can I top the KSG with anything else?? or just layer by layer the KSG it to give it more all around protection?
 
step 1 - take it to the dealer (or local gas station, whichever is preferred), have them wash it

step 2 - go to pep boys, purchase turtle wax (this stuff is amazing!!!), cake it on, there is no such thing as too much!

step 3 - make sure you don't buff off the wax and you'll have years of protection!



really messy tireshine and window streaks are optional
 
As far as the washing, I think that a foam gun would be a nice way of washing, if you are concerned about scratching the paint. As far as drying you could always use the Shop-Vac on Blow or a leaf blower. You would never even have to touch the paint to dry and it does not take that long to do (it is just noisy).



Click the link for a video on the foam gun: How to Detailing Video - Foam Gun



Do you guys think I should approach and get some Klasse AIO in there followed by KSG?? and if I do that approach after I have the sealant glaze cured , what else could I top it off??



I am with WilliamHBonney on this one, the K-AIO and SG will last the longest. You could always top with a wax like Collinite IW for extra protection or S100 for "the look"
 
WilliamHBonney said:
You could go either route and I am sure it would look great. I can tell you that the Klasse AIO and SG combo will last longer than the DG AW route. If you are looking at longevity also look at the Jeff Werkstats and Zaino line up as the both look good and provide a good amount of protection.
Click to expand...



does the jeff werkstatts prime and aj have the same longevity of the klasse duo?
 
3wide said:
does the jeff werkstatts prime and aj have the same longevity of the klasse duo?
Click to expand...

Yes they do. You might get an extra month out of the SG but the advantage is that JWs AJ Trigger is much easier to use and looks much much better.



If I were you and you want to switch I would get JWs Prime Strong and JWs AJTrigger.
 
what about KAIO, KSG then Collinite 845? I assume you can slap any wax on over a synthetic like KSG and, damn, your car should be bullet-proof after that lot! I'm planning to use KAIO then either KSG or Collinite for my gf's old Nissan then forget about it until next summer.



As for the shopvac on blow to dry a car... not recommended IMO if you actually use the shop vac for its intended purpose. You'll be blowing all sorts of dusty crud onto the car.
 
That sounds like a great combo pipspeak, KAIO , KSG and then Collinite 845.



Can I apply KAIO and KSG by hand, and leave them overnight?? then after 24 hours of KSG cure i will apply the collinite 845 for the lsp.
 
heh, you're asking the wrong person... that *will* be my bullet-proof plan once I actually get started on the project. I'm still gearing up.



KAIO certainly possible by hand. KSG and Collinite I've not yet used but I hear Collinite is easier to apply than KSG.
 
Klasse AIO + Sealant = good choice

Collinite 845 = good durabilty

Duragloss Aquawax for week washing quick detailing :)

Danase Wet Glaze -> awesome easy on/off acrylic glaze for the Nissan Charcoal paint



Puerto Rico! :)





pd. Hasta el dia de hoy no he conocido a nadie en PR que ofresca servicios de detailing "PROFESIONAL" de alta calidad, con el conocimiento suficiente para saber que producto aplicar, cuando y como. so.. el trabajo lo tenemos que hacer nosotros aunque nos canse :)
 
I think you have a decent plan and do have options. AIO and KSG are really good, but I found KSG to be a bit tricky to apply - durability is excellent with 2 layers.

KAIO would be good in your case because you don't need polish, but the chemical cleaner in AIO would be very good...



At some point I too would like to experiment with JW Prime and AJT.



I just did my spring detail 2 weeks ago and went with the following:

1) ONR wash

2) Megs clay (ONR QD spray)

3) OP (New Formula) yellow pad

4) DG 105 blue pad (skipped the bonding agent this time)

5) DG AW topper (next day)
 
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