Sonax Polymer vs Carnuba Waxes(single stg paint)

Striker said:
So you’re saying wait the full 24 hours before attempting to use the pads?

One thing I noticed once I finish with my cyan+Menz 3500 is the finish looks flawless. Until I give the label an ISO wipe down and the tiny little imperfections come to surface!

I guess 3500 definitely has some fillers in it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Striker,
Just check the pads, squeeze them and feel how wet they are.. they seem to dry from the outside in, so the middle will be wettest..
The thicker Hydro-Tech`s take longer to dry because, they are thicker than all the pads being sold today to work with all the Random Orbitals, which create so much heat, they break down thicker pads faster than thinner pads which seem to dissipate heat faster..

You want dry pads to do the work, but you of course can choose to do what you want..

Experiment with the wipe down, go a different direction from the "defects" to see if you are not introducing anything during the wipe down.. That`s what I would do..
Just to be sure of what I am going to do next, to eliminate those tiny things, or not, etc..
Dan F
 
I’ll try another pass with Menz 3500 and cyan pad and this time I’ll wipe with iso in a different direction just to see.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Stokdgs said:
...I personally don`t know how anyone can damage paint with a product (Menzerna 3500) that has a Cut of 3 and a Gloss of 10, unless they are totally inexperienced with the process..
Dan F
Click to expand...

Note that the guy who [messed] up my Jag has been using Menzerna since forever, literally was running a rotary on priceless cars (e.g., Rolls Silver Ghost) long before I was even born. He just didn`t listen to me...decades of experience = he knows it all :rolleyes:

When I tell somebody specifically, in detail, how to do his job, I`m not wrong. I`d been babying the area in question since the late `80s and knew what I was talking about.

Striker- Sorry to rant all over your thread :o
 
All good buddy! This is what this is all about.

I’m gonna go and try to fix my mistakes later today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Striker- Thanks.

Are you having any issues with the oils and the ss paint? The oils in Po106FF drove me nuts (the ones in the SRC-polish they made for BF weren`t much better) and that was on b/c! A ss like my Jag`s would really soak up those oils, and I`d expect even more trouble. Those oils were worse than the ones in M205!
 
I just don’t get what I’m doing wrong here- I can’t work with this single stage paint to get all the defects out of it if my life depends on it.

Here is a final pass with Menz 3500 and a Cyan pad. No pressure. Brand new clean pad. Speeds 1-2. Super slow hand speed. And I took my sweet time.

Clarity and gloss are top notch. But you can still see the marring.

IMG_0281.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This is the door done with 3500 and cyan blue. Came out much better than the hood. Still some marring. Might step up to 2500


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
a0f07711d80f1c655e2d771258f1137f.jpg


Enough product ? That’s five dots on my pad.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Accumulator said:
Note that the guy who [messed] up my Jag has been using Menzerna since forever, literally was running a rotary on priceless cars (e.g., Rolls Silver Ghost) long before I was even born. He just didn`t listen to me...decades of experience = he knows it all :rolleyes:

When I tell somebody specifically, in detail, how to do his job, I`m not wrong. I`d been babying the area in question since the late `80s and knew what I was talking about.

Striker- Sorry to rant all over your thread :o
Click to expand...

Mi Hermano, El Accumulator` !
And even with all that "experience" did he not - ever -measure total thickness to see what was happening?? Guess not.. :(
So sorry, Hemano..
Dan F
 
Striker -
The clarity and gloss are incredible !

I am pretty sure I don`t use that much product at once..
I also never do an entire door in 1 pass.. Its just too much area to cover and keep the moisture content right.. Especially those - long - doors..

Can you remember before you started that door - were those circular marks in it already ? If so, then they are deeper defects and not something you are introducing..
I always look over the entire spot I am about to do - Before - I start it, so I can see - progress - or not see progress..
Its layers of defects always.. Sometimes, some are just not worth removing because they are so deep..
I have some deep ones on the used Acura TL Type-S I have and I know they are not worth going after, on 12-year-old paintwork..
I just live with them knowing I am keeping as much Clear Coat on the car..
Dan F
 
I did the door in 3 sections sir ;) I would never do the door as a whole.

Yes, the marks in the first pic was already there but it’s been taken care of now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Striker said:
I did the door in 3 sections sir ;) I would never do the door as a whole.

Yes, the marks in the first pic was already there but it’s been taken care of now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Striker - Perfect !!!!!!!!!
That is exactly how I would do that door - 2-3 Sections, overlapping each, constantly checking to insure the clarity, gloss, etc., - Matches - across the entire panel when done..
Congrats !!! You Did It !!!
I am so Proud of you !!
The Supreme Rolling Black Mirror is coming out, folks; prepare to be Blinded !!! :) :) :)
Dan F
 
Thanks Dan! Here’s the last pass with the door.

Since you said I might have been using too much product- four drops for this seem OK?
11a140e08b26805485fcb8e3de29b441.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Striker -
I use these little white cotton towels and I wipe the pad down with pressure after each pass on that spot is completed..
You are removing dead paint, etc., used product, etc., moisture, etc., and that helps the pads keep cleaner, last longer, before they are just too saturated and need to be changed out..
And as you go across a panel, the accumulative product that stays in the pad, even after the wipe off, means you should be using less product..
It will always be different though, on every panel of every vehicle because of the zillion variables associated with that panel..
Find the best - Balance - for that panel, that day, and you are fine..
I just use a white, cotton, soft, cloth and something like M105 to get scratches out of those Door Cups behind the handle.. It takes a few minutes sometimes, but they always come out very glossy and scratch-free.. Not ever going to put even a 1" pad in that spot, because of the sharp edge around it.
There is - Always - Less paint on sharp edges.. No need to remove paint from a sharp edge, it is not going to be very scratched if any.. Just a light going over and it is fine..
You will know when its good.
I believe I found those little, soft cotton towels at Target years ago.. They have been perfect.. There are little white towels like them on Ebay..

Outstanding work !! Wow !
Dan F
 
Looks much better under less direct light hahahaha

Now do I touch it up before or after the carnuba. Cuz now it’s bare. And I have no touch up!

IMG_0288.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Striker -
Amazing Clarity and Gloss !!!
I would want to do all the touch ups while the chipped places are clean of anything that will prevent the paint from adhering the best it can..
That Jet Black you did so beautifully reminds me of all the Jet Black Bimmers I did that came out like that...

Had a very good friend I did that work to his Jet Black 2003 BMW M5.. He said when he drove it the 75 miles home, when he came up on people with that rolling black mirror, they would immediately move over for him.. And if you know anything about Washington State, no one wants to move over, especially all those Priuses.. :)

They all thought this must be an FBI car or something and they better get out of the way.. :)
You Did It !!!
Dan F
 
Ohhh that generation M5 was and is the best. Before they went all super high tech and insane :(


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
This paint is moodier than all my ex’s.

Door came out good. Started on the quarter this morning and this is what I get after a pass with 2500 and 3500.

Facepalm.

IMG_0296.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
*update.
I think I’m being a bit too gentle.

I got pissed off and did another pass with tangerine and 2500 at speed two and bam.

e6f58f9896d3ed84cdc610857ebbb02e.jpg


Those are just some holograms from the pad- some fogging which 3500 will clear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Dan question for ya.

I keep finding marring caused by my pad. Perfect circular scratches after I do a pass with 2500. Dirty pad- too much speed- going too slow?

212c2a923438b3bd4b4ae595cc28de91.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top