Sonax Polymer vs Carnuba Waxes(single stg paint)

S

Striker

Active member
Have a Mustang that is black and still wearing its original single stage factory paint.

I have P21S,Souveran and my newly acquired Sonax Polymer Net Shield so I’m not sure if I should use a combo of both or stick to one.

Car doesn’t see any weather unless it’s sun. And driven on Sundays.

Would I be okay to use the net shield as a base meanwhile topping it off with the carnubas after every wash (which I don’t mind doing; the car is a baby)

**Only thing that may be counter productive by applying the carnuba is that I don’t have any carnuba based quick waxes/detailers in my arsenal. I only have the Megs synthetic polymers like UQD.**


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I spoke too soon; I didn’t realize the Megs Gold Class Quick Wax is Carnuba based


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If the car never really sees weather and you are happy with P21S & Souveran then why change? If it were me this situation sounds like exactly the perfect situation for a beauty wax as realistically a single application last last 6 months or even a year or more.

But if you are like many of us and just want to try new stuff then "go for it".

In doing it though you will lose most of the desired benefits of Sonax PNS if you top it with a wax. I don`t know off hand how long Sonax PNS will last on single stage paint.
 
Why would the Net Shield last less on SS paint?

Also would I be loosing any of the beauty wax content by using a spray like megs quick wax?


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Striker said:
Why would the Net Shield last less on SS paint?

Also would I be loosing any of the beauty wax content by using a spray like megs quick wax?
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I don`t have any experience with it but I have read where others have had less durability of sealants as well as coatings on single stage paint. The reason being given was that single stage paint more porous than more modern clear coat for some reason.


IMO and experience I think the overall look at reaction is mostly coming from the last applied product. So stacking and layering products is more about durability or our desire to use products and touch our vehicle. I think if you are applying a spray wax over a paste wax there is a good chance the overall look will change slightly the more you use the spray wax. This is also why I try and use synergistic products.
 
TroyScherer said:
IMO and experience I think the overall look at reaction is mostly coming from the last applied product. So stacking and layering products is more about durability or our desire to use products and touch our vehicle. I think if you are applying a spray wax over a paste wax there is a good chance the overall look will change slightly the more you use the spray wax. This is also why I try and use synergistic products.
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I would tend to agree that using the cheaper spray wax (Meg’s GC) will alter the look of the Beauty wax, possibly in a less beautiful way, but you never know. I might try it but keep in mind that the best look might be the paste wax themselves. Maybe a QD is a better option as it doesn’t change the look so much as give a clean shine for a day or two.
 
Would megs quick detailed alter the look or will I still have the p21 showing?

Side note- just in the middle of polishing the paint. Damn I didn’t think it would be this stubborn!

I hit the paint with my rotary and a red hydro foam pad + menzerna 3500.....did little to nothing.

Finally after a few attempts I went to the blue (cyan) pad with menz 2500 and finished off with the 3500 for a mirror finish!


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Striker said:
Would megs quick detailed alter the look or will I still have the p21 showing?
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I assume you mean the Ultimate Quik Detailer... in your original post I was thinking you meant Ultimate Quick Wax. I think UQD would be fine to clean/shine the beauty wax up without altering the look much. If the look is altered, these QDs degrade after a day or two so if you are noticing your warm Nuba glow turning into a more sterile shine, wait a few days or do a car wash and I think you’ll be back to Nuba glow.
 
I’d prefer to use my Quick Detailer. I love using it during my drying. Always served me real well.

But I’ve seen the Megs Gold Class Quik Wax is carnuba based so it made me think.




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Go with the QD with no worries, your Mustang will look great regardless. If you want to try out the GC QW and if you don’t like it, I think waxing right back over it with P21 would remove/replace it. It’s not a durable spray wax (I get max 1-2 weeks out of it, and I have seen enough coats of it degrade a base layer of Collinite, so I have no doubt that it alters the base coat).
 
When out just by the souveran spray wax to top and griots boss QD and you’ll be golden. If I had a sun only garage queen that be my combo with the souveran you already have.


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I would do one or the other.

It will look great with the PNS or any of the waxes. The PNS will probably last longer and have better water repelling/self cleaning abilities. This is probably moot based on your original post as it sounds like a sunny day car.

No point in layering if the car is rarely driven IMO. Keep it simple.

I`d just do one of the carnubas and call it done. You shouldn`t need to top up every wash.
 
Most of Meguiars products look nice on darker colors and they work on SS paint (unlike most "new" stuff), the Gold Class spray will do great. Last Touch from the Detailer line also looks excellent on darker paints and is almost as cheap as water. Souveran is still the top of the mark for what you are looking for, I don`t thin you will be able to beat it. M26 is nice too on SS.
 
Sprays - whether detailers or waxes are my absolute go to. I feel as if I didn’t do a proper drying job if I didn’t use one. Plus it helps speed things up!


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IME the oils in carnaubas can benefit *some* single stage paints, but not all of `em.

I`ve basically always redone Souveran at every wash.

Just FWIW, when my Jag isn`t in mothballs I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish topped with Souveran. Zero issues using the SRP on ss even though it effectively blocks the Souveran from "feeding the paint" (yeah, my ss is the kind where that`s not BS, but I dunno about Striker`s Mustang).
 
Accumulator said:
IME the oils in carnaubas can benefit *some* single stage paints, but not all of `em.

I`ve basically always redone Souveran at every wash.

Just FWIW, when my Jag isn`t in mothballs I use Autoglym Super Resin Polish topped with Souveran. Zero issues using the SRP on ss even though it effectively blocks the Souveran from "feeding the paint" (yeah, my ss is the kind where that`s not BS, but I dunno about Striker`s Mustang).
Click to expand...

I believe that this paint loves the oils. When I got it it was home dry and after a correction it felt great with some of the menz fine polishes.

I might give it some p21 and just maintain it with either Megs quick detailer or wax and see


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As much as I like the behavior and self cleaning ability from Sonax PNS and BSD. If I had a classic car with SS paint I would not go that way. As some has mentioned it would maybe not get that crazy water behavior and self cleaning ability on SS paint. Since they are more porous the lotus effect it tries to mimic may not be so great on these paints. Also the looks from PNS and BSD is quite sharp and crisp. And if you like the carnuaba glow look it would be on the other end of that look.

If you want to have a mix of new and old. In that you would have a ceramic coating like with carnuaba. Polish Angel Centurion is a ceramic carnuaba wax and color matched to black paint. It`s claims up to 12 months longevity and maybe on a garage queen and nice weather car. The budget is high on PA products and this 50ml bottles you get 2-3 cars out of. If you is not able to get Centurion the PA Famous Wax is for all colors. And to maintain this high quality finish you have from the Carnuaba Arts line Polish Angel Black Wulfenite. A spray wax that can be used as a drying aid too. This is if the budget is no problem and you want a top notch product.
 
Lots of experience with Sonax Polymer Net Shield when it first came out years ago..
If you prepare the paint really well, it will look fabulous and last a long time, even outside..
It is a little "grabby" when applying, but that is easily dealt with..

If you like the oil-shine of the other products because of that "shine", then this will not be exactly the same..

I believe they said that the Sonax has silicone in it, but I never read conclusive evidence from Sonax that it did.. Perhaps it did, I don`t know and don`t really care to know..

So, to me, it`s a question between durability, the amount of shine, and not so much of it..

If you like to apply products all the time to your vehicle, then by all means go for it..

Regarding your earlier post, using the Lake, Country Hydro-Shred Crimson pad - this would never work.. It is a pad for applying product after all correction, more than anything.. Perhaps it has a tiny but of correction with a very mild polish, in my experiences..

You were correct in then going to Lake Country Cyan (Blue) pad; this pad can do some really good correction with a Rotary and the right technique, compound, or polish..
I sometimes have to put good downward pressure on the work to help me get what I want out of this pad quickly.. All depends on the extent of defects and the price for the work.. But I always give a little more extra, because that is how I am..

its my first choice and it has never let me down.. I love using sometimes just this or perhaps the Tangerine after, to get incredible, glossy, clear, flat, paintwork results, because these pads can actually finish down really well.. All pads of that line finish down really well..
Dan F
 
A little off-topic here: polishing the surface and I just can’t win. Also the more embarrassing and frustrating part is; this is far from my first rodeo.

But I cannot get rid of the super fine marring.

1-menz-2500/3000/3500 with lake country hydro foam pads! I’m pulling my hair here.

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