Sonax Clay Disc- Experiences?

Striker- Unless you`re planning on doing significant correction anyhow I wouldn`t use that. Eh, guess *I* probably wouldn`t use it period, just too uncontrolled for me.
 
It actually has a hand strap as well.

But the more I think of it the better I like the idea of a nano towel for small jams and something like the new BLACKFIRE mitt.


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I have the Black Fire mitt and it has done a four year never been clayed or polished F-150 crew cab, a trashed Honda mini-van,and a Nissan Murano in good shape. It still looks great and the price was right and well made.

What about marring? the Nissan and Honda were black paint and did not mar. I used ONR for lube on the Ford and Black Fire new formula soap on the Nissan and Honda.
 
So can you use the Blackfire mitt with your was media ? Or do you need a clay lube ?


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I`ve used it both with a clay lube (like a regular clay bar) and have used it during bucket wash using PB Super Slick and Suds.

So can you use the Blackfire mitt with your was media ? Or do you need a clay lube ?


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I would image. If I`m claying, I`ll be polishing soon afterwards so I`m not too concerned with light marring, maybe a consideration if you just wanna clay/LSP it.
And are they both safe to use this way I guess ?


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I’m debating getting the spray lube with it or using the wash media with it.


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That Sonax Clay Disc looks like the surface of my SM Arnold Rubberized Clay Towel..

In my experiences using the SM Arnold Clay Towel with Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lube, on very dirty, washed paint, it takes more effort to get that embedded stuff smooth, than a claybar - but - this towel doesn`t clog up, and rinses out while you are working as long as you keep spraying it.. I imagine this Sonax disc will act the same way..

I have also used my Clay Towel with clean, car wash soap - (after washing the car first) - and a lot of water, and it seemed to work ok with car wash soap too..

The only issue I would have is that this is a round disc that will not fit into tight places or do well on square or rectangular places, etc...

Sonax makes a lot of great things, and have been around several years. A few years ago,, Sonax products were used on the Mercedes Formula-1 cars..

Good luck in your research -
Dan F
 
Didn’t know about sonax being in F1. Neat!

I just ordered a LOT of product from AG and most of them being Sonax.

I however elected to go with a BLACKFIRE Clay Mitt.

Am I okay to wash the car- rinse and then use my wash media to dip the Blackfire mitt in?




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Striker,
That Blackfire Clay Mitt looks exactly like the SM Arnold Mitt even in the same plastic container.. :)

If this is the case and it is the same but with a different name, then it will want to become a little tacky if its too warm.

So that means it might want to stick to paint, so keep the paintwork cool either in the garage or in the shade, and that will help prevent the Mitt from wanting to get "sticky"..
I fold it in half and then half again, and try to get all 4 squares broken in and then change them around as I go..

I read the directions and it says to "break it in" by first using it on all the glass of the vehicle, so don`t forget to do that.
And a great benefit from that is that your glass will be so much cleaner - especially the windshield - and that is always a plus in bad weather, etc..

Yes, you can use good car wash soap and have the hose handy to rinse and keep going across the entire vehicle..

Keep the surface wet and make sure the Clay Mitt is rinsed, which will be really easy since everything just washes off of it; nothing I have ever seen has stuck to it, and had to be removed..

What you might consider doing, is go over a panel, rinse it, dry it, and go over it with your clean, dry, hand and fingers and see if you can feel the surface really smooth... If it is not smooth compared to an adjacent area that has not been gone over, then you need to go over it again, to get it smooth.. You will be able to tell the difference...

I always use back and forth motions, no circular, crazy random directions, just back and forth, like you are sanding the paint or a piece of wood, etc...
Smooth, even, pressure; figure out how much pressure you need to get it smooth and keep that in mind as you go..

The areas that are done will shed water way different than the rest, which is good, and means that paint is really clean....

Keep your soap bucket clean and don`t use the soap if the bucket is full of dirt at the bottom, dump it, rinse it, and make new soap..

Remember, the idea is to clean the paint without scratching it or marring it; if it goes bad, then you may have to consider correcting the parts that have self made defects, if you want to go to that level..

This will be fun and your glass and all the paintwork, etc., will really benefit from this and whatever you do after to it will work much better, because you have removed a lot of embedded gunk that will not come out easily without this step..
Dan F
 
Thanks Dan. That’s a great post.

I’ve got two cars I’m definitely going to be spending some time on.

First is a 2 year old Accord that my father bought brand new and I started off that car right out of the gate (decon and sealed with Collinite) first time as soon as he bought it and the second time I think a year later. Perhaps 6 months later.

The second car is my 1990 Mustang with single stage paint that’s black. This car will receive a light correction being SS and black but seeing as it doesn’t see any rain and always garaged, I can’t see it needing the clay mitt?

I also have a Trans Am that sees even less use then the Mustang and is also black (in cursed) so I’m not sure if I’ll give that car a go or not.
 
Thanks Dan. That’s a great post.

I’ve got two cars I’m definitely going to be spending some time on.

First is a 2 year old Accord that my father bought brand new and I started off that car right out of the gate (decon and sealed with Collinite) first time as soon as he bought it and the second time I think a year later. Perhaps 6 months later.

The second car is my 1990 Mustang with single stage paint that’s black. This car will receive a light correction being SS and black but seeing as it doesn’t see any rain and always garaged, I can’t see it needing the clay mitt?

I also have a Trans Am that sees even less use then the Mustang and is also black (in cursed) so I’m not sure if I’ll give that car a go or not.

Striker --

You are welcome, I am glad to help !

The Accord will be a great car to learn on.. The paint is always the same, and it does get dirty and will feel rough on top even after the wash.
Then you will come along with the Clay Mitt after,and take that roughness off.. :)

The others - well all I can tell you about black cars is that I have had several and still have one today, and have Detailed many, many, more.. One year, I Detailed 17 black cars in a row..

Just keep your work on them, if you decide to use the Clay Mitt on them, consistent, even, again like you are lightly sanding the paint in straight lines..

Dont dig into the paint , but keep even pressure across it.. You can even hear the sound of the mitt or claybar going across a rough surface, and then as you keep doing it, the sound goes away, and you can be pretty sure, that spot is now smooth..

On all black paint, I always keep them really wet to help me not make more work for myself.. Its a balance, between getting it really smooth and not going to far that you accidently marr it a little, but you will be able to find that balance, if you pay attention to what is going on and never get distracted while doing this part..

Those are some nice black beauties you have !!!!

Dan F
 
Thanks man. Yea they’re pretty. The mustang wears its original 1990 paint that everyone thinks is in great shape except me lol. I will get the whole car repainted in the future. The Trans Am is a whole different animal. That car just sits. So I doubt I’ll be putting the mitt to that thing.


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Dan one more thing- I’m in need of having my three go to polishing compounds from menzerna.

What three do you gravitate to?

AG only sells two in their kit. I always like to finish black off with a 85RD or whatever the new equivalent is.


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Dan one more thing- I’m in need of having my three go to polishing compounds from menzerna.

What three do you gravitate to?

AG only sells two in their kit. I always like to finish black off with a 85RD or whatever the new equivalent is.


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Striker --
I still have old bottles of Menzerna SIP (Super Intensive Polish), Power Finish (PO 203S), Micro Polish ( PO85RD), and Super Finish (PO 106FA).. :)

I have 4 of the newest Menzerna Line - 2500 (Medium Cut Polish) Cut=5, Gloss=7, 3000 (Final Finish) Cut=3, Gloss=9, 3500 (Super Finish) Cut=3, Gloss=10, 3800 (Super Finish Plus) Cut=2, Gloss=10..

If I had your vehicles and the paint was in really good condition, no swirls, defects, etc., just wanting to keep them at that highest level, the last 3 - 3000Final Finish, 3500Super Finish, and 3800Super Finish Plus would be good choices...

I still need 2500 Medium Cut Polish for those dirty, neglected, german cars that come by occasionally.. :)

There are so many products out there from so many people - even more every year now...

I tend to trust those that have the longest history and especially those that seriously manufacture these products for things like industrial use, etc... They have way more skin in the game to want to goof that up and lose their butts with lousy products, etc...

Another couple of great products I have used over the years has been Optimum Hyper-Polish, Optimum Finish, and Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish..

And as you already know, the pads used change all the variables up and down the scale as well...
Dan F
 
Don’t mean to nitpick your suggestions but.....

For me to maintain my two black summer toys.

Which of those three Menzernas should I go with ? I’m also guessing they finish with a white pad?


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