Some "how to"s; how to use #83, the Menzernas, and how to make the PC do rotary work

The most common mistake with a wax is that the user uses too much; the reverse is true with a polish. A common mistake with DACP is using too little, or working too large an area (which works out to the same thing). Put a nice sized star of product on the pad, or a nice spiral. Spread it arond, and use speed 4. When you start, it should be about this thick:



It took me a while to figure this out as well. But once I

started applying the polishes more liberally, I found that

my results were much more better. The one difference

for me, is that I still tend to work the menzernas' closer

to the point of dusting as oppossed to stopping at the

translucent stage. On dark paints, it's easy for me to see

where I need to stop, but on whites and very light colors,

it is a little more complicated. When I can barely see any

of the product residue with a spotlight, that's where I

pretty much stop.
 
This is the beauty of Autopia, sharing the tips unselfishly!



Did I get it right? #80 in some parts of the car and Menzerna polish in some? Is it not creating inconsistency? What about appearance?
 
Excellent write up! Much appreciated. One question: Do you flucuate(sp) your PC speeds at any point during your polishing? You stated you worked the product at speed 4, just wondering do you basically stay at that speed or increase it as you work the product in? I'm still working on finding that happy medium w/ DACP.
 
tripper_11 said:
This is the beauty of Autopia, sharing the tips unselfishly!



Did I get it right? #80 in some parts of the car and Menzerna polish in some? Is it not creating inconsistency? What about appearance?
Click to expand...



I'm not recommending that, I only wanted to compare the two products. IMO, the #80 is a little bit more user friendly.



We're only removing paint here, so however you do it, if it is even, no marring and a high level of gloss, then it will look the same. This comes down to which product is easier for YOU to use; and certainly the choice FOR YOU might be the SSRs! But if you already have this product and are having trouble with it, then trying again is cheaper than purchasing a different product.





Tom
 
...very informative.....another big thank you. I was not clear about PC speed. You said to use 4 while spreading the product (#83 for me). Do you keep it at 4 or go to 5-6 when working the polish?



Thanks again.
 
Mosca said:
I'm not recommending that, I only wanted to compare the two products. IMO, the #80 is a little bit more user friendly.



We're only removing paint here, so however you do it, if it is even, no marring and a high level of gloss, then it will look the same. This comes down to which product is easier for YOU to use; and certainly the choice FOR YOU might be the SSRs! But if you already have this product and are having trouble with it, then trying again is cheaper than purchasing a different product.





Tom
Click to expand...



Thanks for the clarification.:bow



And wait you're wrong with the SSR for me! I'm a big fan of #80!I just can't seem satisfied with #83 alone, I always do the #80. But after you've shared this info, I've got to do some experiment again re the two.:D :D :D :xyxthumbs
 
Thank you for posting this information and your insightsâ€Â¦/



JonM
 
Awesome write up Mosca:bow :xyxthumbs



This even helps me out even though I'm not a noob myself. I'm printing this article out to use for reference next time I do some polishing and waxing. Thank you:up AR
 
Tom, a really big 'thank you' for this tutorial.



Recently, I was getting frustrated with IP because of dusting and couldn't work out why. I was getting close to switching camps. Having a couple of (agonising) months off from detailing, due to shifting our business location, I found IP problematic.



When I first started to use it I had no problems..in fact I liked it because of the lack of dusting. Then when i went back to it...dust everywhere!



After reading this thread, I realised what I've been doing...I've been sub-consciously reducing the amount on the pad. Duhh!



Thanks for saving my (Menzerna) butt! :bow



Paul
 
"so do you remove the IP right away like the FP ??"



Yes, as soon as its gone oily and translucent it comes off.
 
What are the 80 and 83 referred to? Just looked on the meguiars site and did a search and got nothing that made sense to how it's used here? polishes? waxes?



After the menzerna and glaze...what was the protectant layer?



Sorry for the noob questions
 
Tom,

what a wonderful write up. Thank you for the tutorial. It has clarified aspects of these products that sometimes left me scratching my head. Thanks again.

Ben
 
I'm attempting this process today on my black 98 cobra.

I'm having trouble when I try to remove the product. I'm only working the product for 2-3 minutes tops. Then using a mf towel to remove. After a couple of good wipes, it becomes very hard to get the rest of the product off. I'm having to wipe very hard (to the point where mf towel is making squeeky noises) to get it off. I can imagine that I'm doing more harm than good by having to run so hard. Any ideas? Think I'm working the product too long, or not using enough? Seems if I work the product till it just goes translucent, that's too long. Thanks for the advice!
 
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