Soft Honda paint + KSG... F#^$ me

kenleekenlee

New member
I don't usually post on forums - I like to read instead - but I just have to say that I've had it with KSG on my RSX.



The paint is so soft, a child's laughter would put swirls in it. My process is usually Menz IP on a white pad and FPII on a grey pad. KAIO with a blue pad and ...Perfect! Until it's KSG time.



I use KSG with a primed red applicator pad. Suuuper thin - just like everyone says to. Multiple layers, a few hours apart w/ buffing the residue in between layers.



Pull all that hard work out into the sun... and I want to cry every time. They're not _horrible_ by any means, but we all know that anything less than perfect is a terrible waste of time. Perhaps my technique needs some revision, but it's my assumption that red pad + extremely light pressure + good MFs =(or should=) very few if any swirls. I think KSG simply requires too much contact with the paint in my situation.



Regardless, I'm looking for something else to provide some long-term protection. It doesn't have to have the endless durability of KSG, but it would be nice to not have to reapply every few weeks - did I mention how soft the paint is? Also, it seems that pretty much _anything_ will be easier to use than KSG, am I right? I can't imagine anything requiring more effort than KSG...



Any recommendations?



TIA



Ken
 
I also have an Acura TSX and i really hate how soft is the paint.....You should try FK1000P.Easy to apply, easy to remove, great durability...
 
Duragloss #105. Appy it over Duragloos #601. In my experience, you don't hardly need much pressure at all to remove it and it lasts a very long time.
 
pampos said:
I also have an Acura TSX and i really hate how soft is the paint.....You should try FK1000P.Easy to apply, easy to remove, great durability...



Another vote for 1000P here. Well, that and UPGP. If you have problems swirling the paint when you apply and remove 1000P, give UPGP a shot. It's a really good choice for soft paint, as you don't have to rub off the film after application. The application process itself is very gentle, too.
 
I think in your situation a few layers of optiseal or upgp would be best.



Since they are wipe on walk away products you will spend less time in contact with the paint
 
Dsoto87 said:
I think in your situation a few layers of optiseal or upgp would be best.



Since they are wipe on walk away products you will spend less time in contact with the paint



+1 for minimal paint contact.
 
I have soft black honda paint as well and have never had an issue with klasse. The only trick that i have learned is after it sets, don't just keep rubbing hard to get it off. I usually just wipe the bulk of it off with a microfiber then mist some water on it and the remaining klasse will come off with ease. I put 7+ coats and did not cause any damage.
 
I am a fan of Opti-Seal for really soft paint... Reason being that you spray it on, spread softly with a damp applicator and then it flash drys with no need to remove a "residue." You may get "streaks" but you can easily remove them with a QD.



So it's one less step where you could induce swirls/scratches into the paint.
 
just a thought, check it in the sun after the KAIO

KAIO is a chemical cleaner and maybe the polish is hidding the defects

then the KAIO is removing the fillers.....
 
i too have a black rsx and the paint, although so pretty, is soft as hell



as others have said, i think ultima's sealant is what you want



mist on a soft mf applicator, spread and call it a day
 
Zaino Z8 is probably the best option for a sealant that requires minimal contact. Just enough of a brush with a towel to spread it around. Less buffing than some quick detailers. A very similar option is Duragloss AW. You could switch from KAIO to DG 501 (better than 105 IMO) and top with AW. That would be very durable and require less buffing on the paint.
 
BigJimZ28 said:
just a thought, check it in the sun after the KAIO....



That's what I was thinking too. Funny that you could do the KAIO step but not the KSG one...and I'd be wondering about the MF too.



Plus, I can't get a properly (well, my version of "properly") thin application of KSG via machine, I *always* end up applying a whole lot more than I do by hand.



I dunno...I put it on so thin I can't really see it, let it set up overnight, fog the surface with my breath, and it buffs off with hardly any contact pressure at all :nixweiss



Q regarding the FK1000P suggestions: yeah, I like it too and it comes off easily. But don't you find that it takes a bit more application effort/force than a liquid like KSG? I mean..the FK1000P is a pretty hard paste and getting it a) onto the applicator and b) from the applicator to the paint... well, it takes a bit of doing compared to wiping on KSG (and yeah, I'm using FK425 with my FK1000P to help the process along).



Not like I've ever had a problem with it, but then I don't work on the softest paints in the world either. I kinda feel like I'm being more aggressive putting the FK1000P on than I am during any part of the KSG process, not that I've ever really thought about it before. Guess I'd be leaning towards the wipe-on-walk-away stuff too if I had paint that soft.
 
JW AJT! This stuff looks just as good as KSG, or even better and has excellent durability. And it can be used over AIO. I've been using it on my silver car for a year or so now and have been impressed. I also throw a coat of DWG between layers of AJT for even more slickness and shine.



WERKSTAT Detailing: Acrylic Jett Trigger
 
TnM6i said:
JW AJT! This stuff looks just as good as KSG, or even better and has excellent durability. And it can be used over AIO. I've been using it on my silver car for a year or so now and have been impressed. I also throw a coat of DWG between layers of AJT for even more slickness and shine.



WERKSTAT Detailing: Acrylic Jett Trigger



Agreed, but throw in some prime while you're at it. It's better than KAIO IMO.
 
IMHO, Wolfgang 3.0 is the easiest product to apply/remove. If you use a LC CCS Gold pad, applying it is very very fast. Let it sit for 20 min and then remove, it's a breeze.
 
I own a NBP TL-S and can keep it virtually swirl free all year long...it can be done! I too vote for Optiseal.



I would put money on it that your MF is the culprit. I went through a few different brands before I found one that was safe on this Honda paint. Eurow Shag MF towels are your friend! You also need to make sure you're caring for your MF properly as well.



Good luck!
 
Wow, excellent responses, everyone!



Re: Application of KAIO - The swirls do not match the motion of the UDM, and there appear to be no swirls after the very light buffing of the residue.



For KSG, I dilute it 1:1 with distilled water and use it in a spray bottle. It's easier to keep the usage down and with the wide spray pattern, I find it's easier to get complete coverage than with a drop of KSG on the pad. Yes, I realize that this may prolong the cure time, but I think a few hours in a hot garage should suffice. By the way, the KSG is applied by hand with a red Euro CCS pad (supposedly one of the softest).



My MFs are some old orange and grey Vrooms. The light swirling still happened when these were new, though.



I guess from here I'll try OptiSeal (I was kind of leaning towards a WOWA product). Also, some new MFs will probably be on order soon. Any deals on either product?
 
kenleekenlee- Well, the additional info sure makes it seem like you're narrowing the variables. I suppose the KAIO does buff off a little easier than the KSG, but I'd never suspected it'd be a significant diff :nixweiss



Actually, when I've let the KAIO really *dry* it was a lot harder to buff off than KSG is for me :think:



Eh...see how newer/softer/better MFs work out.
 
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