Soft black paint!

AtoZDetailing

AtoZDetailing

New member
Ok guys here's the problem. I have a hey black car that has to be polished up. Process was yellow/orange cutting pad and fg400, and black/blue pad and sf4000/4500 to finish. I am by no means new to detailing or paint correction but man...I'm running out of ideas here. This paint WILL NOT finish down. Microfibers are cobra 530's so i don't think it's that. The funny thing is, the paint seems to look a little worst after the finishing polishes than what fg left behind. Any ideas or anyone experience something similar?
 
Try searching here (and maybe autogeek too) for "nissan self-healing clear". I read some posts a while back on how to deal with this super soft clear. Might give you some ideas. Sorry, my memory sucks, or I'd try to share it here and save you the trouble.
 
wdmaccord said:
Try searching here (and maybe autogeek too) for "nissan self-healing clear". I read some posts a while back on how to deal with this super soft clear. Might give you some ideas. Sorry, my memory sucks, or I'd try to share it here and save you the trouble.
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Thanks man, I'll look it up. Another thing is that i know this car was painted 2 years ago using ppg paint. From what I know ppg is usually on the harder side
 
Just read it was repainted

hhmmmmm

Pics of the paint might get more informed help

pics of the car would be appreciated :)
 
Ronkh said:
Just read it was repainted

hhmmmmm

Pics of the paint might get more informed help

pics of the car would be appreciated :)
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I left the the job site for the day but I will get some pics tomorrow. Something doesn't add up though. Even on Porsche paint ff4500 and an lc blue pad will finish down nice. One thing I'm thinking is maybe the environment I'm in? It's at a customers house in his garage so maybe dust is settling on the microfibers? Even though they are kept in a storage bin so maybe not....ugh, frustrating!
 
Need pix, then I can tell you exactly what you need.

Idea #1 - It sounds like the FG is leaving stuff behind an the SF isn't strong enough to cut it out. In other words you need more cut on the finisher but I'm just guessing.

Idea #2 - Are you wiping down with ISO? If so you could be softening the paint even more an thats what could be causing the lines.

How fine are the marks? Spider webbing or swirls and are they linear with the wipe down.

I'd recommend wiping down in an odd shape, then you'll get a good feel if it's the MF. 530 is rough for soft paint though, especially with a fresh spray too.
 
The Driver said:
Need pix, then I can tell you exactly what you need.

It sounds like the FG is leaving stuff behind an the SF isn't strong enough to cut it out. In other words you need more cut on the finisher but I'm just guessing.
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That was my other thought. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. But what explains the finish looking worst after sf4500? I guess it would have to be the microfibers? The only thing left after fg is some light holograms, No major defects.
 
AtoZDetailing said:
That was my other thought. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. But what explains the finish looking worst after sf4500? I guess it would have to be the microfibers? The only thing left after fg is some light holograms, No major defects.
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Try leveling out as I call it, basically pick a middle of the road polish and a middle of the road pad. That will give you the clearest choice of weather you need to cut or finish. I do it alot, especially FG.

SF4500 is different from 4000, I made this mistake once too. 4500 has almost NO cut at all. I use it only for jeweling. 4000 is my final finisher for holograms or micro marring from extreme compounding. Do you have rupes pads?

Note: FG is VERY picky with temps, what are your working temps, do you have an idea of how the paint temps are?
 
The Driver said:
Try leveling out as I call it, basically pick a middle of the road polish and a middle of the road pad. That will give you the clearest choice of weather you need to cut or finish. I do it alot, especially FG.

SF4500 is different from 4000, I made this mistake once too. 4500 has almost NO cut at all. I use it only for jeweling. 4000 is my final finisher for holograms or micro marring from extreme compounding. Do you have rupes pads?

Note: FG is VERY picky with temps, what are your working temps, do you have an idea of how the paint temps are?
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No rupes pads. I have LC pfw all the way down to blue finishing. In terms of temps, The paint defiantly get's warm. I'm using a rotary, steady arm speed and about 1200rpms.

The Driver said:
Well first things are, are the lines left behind circular or linear? Sorry, I'm all over the place.
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They are circular. But I wipe down in a small circular motion

The Driver said:
Need pix, then I can tell you exactly what you need.

Idea #1 - It sounds like the FG is leaving stuff behind an the SF isn't strong enough to cut it out. In other words you need more cut on the finisher but I'm just guessing.

Idea #2 - Are you wiping down with ISO? If so you could be softening the paint even more an thats what could be causing the lines.

How fine are the marks? Spider webbing or swirls and are they linear with the wipe down.

I'd recommend wiping down in an odd shape, then you'll get a good feel if it's the MF. 530 is rough for soft paint though, especially with a fresh spray too.
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I am wiping down with eraser....that makes it MUCH worst. Again, small circular "bites" to wipe off. So the 530s are rough for soft paint? Any recommendation? I was thinking sonus polishing towels. The yellow ones
 
What machine are you using if the the Rupes then it's the throw of the machine. I have been dealing with soft paints left and right.

I just did a black viper GTS and I had to use the flex with a finish pad with Sonax ex 04-06 on speed 3 to cut and finish down close to perfect.
 
AtoZ -

Repainted - how long ago ?? How was it cured ? Was it cured ?

Do you smell the paint when you put your nose right down on it ?

Im a big fan of L/C Purple Foamed Wool - the first design and this with a good compound of any grit, will really work fast on cured new paint, old airplane paint (Imron), and about anything else.

Heck I once used Meguiars 105 and L/C PFW on a severely scratched Lexus Flat Black door and it took out the bad stuff and Meguiars 205 and a L/C flat white pad finished it down to perfectly clear, glossy paint..

Not knowing all the info or much else, Im having to lean toward its not cured yet...
And you are heating it up and making it crazy..

Another reason why I never use microfibers - well I use Rotary Power so microfibers are just not the right media for that anyway..

Good luck !
Dan F
 
Ronkh said:
Black hole
natty's blue or black ice
call it a day
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Good fillers?

Stokdgs said:
AtoZ -

Repainted - how long ago ?? How was it cured ? Was it cured ?

Do you smell the paint when you put your nose right down on it ?

Im a big fan of L/C Purple Foamed Wool - the first design and this with a good compound of any grit, will really work fast on cured new paint, old airplane paint (Imron), and about anything else.

Heck I once used Meguiars 105 and L/C PFW on a severely scratched Lexus Flat Black door and it took out the bad stuff and Meguiars 205 and a L/C flat white pad finished it down to perfectly clear, glossy paint..

Not knowing all the info or much else, Im having to lean toward its not cured yet...
And you are heating it up and making it crazy..

Another reason why I never use microfibers - well I use Rotary Power so microfibers are just not the right media for that anyway..

Good luck !
Dan F
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Hey Dan, car was painted 2 years ago, It's defiantly cured. I cut it with LC orange and fg, it finished out nice with some mino holograms (normal) finished with (or tried finishing) with sf4000 on a white, black, and blue pad. Nothing worked. Seem to be worst then where fg400 left it. I'll try misting my pad with some water as per The Driver mentioned.
What are your thoughts?
 
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