So I took the plunge....

I

imported_NT2SHBBY

New member
Weather was nice on Saturday (70 degrees and sunny in NYC), so I decided to detail the Infiniti...





This was my process:



touchup wash with NRWS QD solution (truck was already clean)

clay with Mothers claybar/Showtime QD

Excel MF's to dry

SSR2.5 via PC and Sonus SFX yellow cutting pad (speed set to 3 and bumped to 6)-worked each panel separately and for some time with pressure applied liberally

RMG via hand

845 via hand





now, the Black Obsidian paint looks great in the shade, smooth as glass but I still have noticable scratches/swirling present. I am wondering if I used the wrong pad, too much/too little product, wrong swirl remover, etc...



I am also wondering if Infiniti clear is just hard and I need to use that much more elbow grease/time. I did take my time though (at least I thought so)



after the 3 hours spent, and working with the PC on 6, my hands were SHOT!!!! absolutely took every bit of energy out of me.





I am thinking next time to work product in more now that I got a stool to sitdown on (bought sunday)





Any ideas, comments? :think:
 
Not an expert here, just a guy who is researching PC versus rotary. Your experience of taking along time and being exhausted, is one reason I hear over and over from people who use rotary as one huge benefit of using a rotary - a rotary is quick and doesn't take a lot of energy.



The other reason is that a rotary can get swirls a PC can't get.



I know what most of you will say - a rotary is not for a newbie, too easy to harm paint, ... but I have done my research. Now it's time to buy one and tell you my experience - I might ruin some paint, I don't know. But until you try it - on a junk car preferably - how do you know?



The two things agreed by everyone, whether they use a rotary or not, a rotary:

- is less effort to use

- can get a better surface prep than a PC



Just my two cents worth.
 
thecarguy said:
Not an expert here, just a guy who is researching PC versus rotary. Your experience of taking along time and being exhausted, is one reason I hear over and over from people who use rotary as one huge benefit of using a rotary - a rotary is quick and doesn't take a lot of energy.



The other reason is that a rotary can get swirls a PC can't get.



I know what most of you will say - a rotary is not for a newbie, too easy to harm paint, ... but I have done my research. Now it's time to buy one and tell you my experience - I might ruin some paint, I don't know. But until you try it - on a junk car preferably - how do you know?



The two things agreed by everyone, whether they use a rotary or not, a rotary:

- is less effort to use

- can get a better surface prep than a PC



Just my two cents worth.
Click to expand...





not sure how this was supposed to help me??? :think:
 
I used the caveat about not being an expert so take this for what it's worth, a PC can not get all the swirls that a rotary can - that's the bottom line.
 
I have read and re-read your post. I see no where in the post stating that you had a reduction of swirls.



I would do it again with the same polish and pad. Moving slowly. .5 in to 1 in./second. Use the same speed techique as stated previously.



I would also use another polish like SSR1 with polishing pad to help burnish the paint to clear up the marring that could have occured using the SSR2.5. As always go slow and chech your work often.



I have read from others that one can get a finished surface using SSR2.5. That has not been the case for me. I always follow SSR2.5 with SSR1.
 
cwcad said:
I have read and re-read your post. I see no where in the post stating that you had a reduction of swirls.



I would do it again with the same polish and pad. Moving slowly. .5 in to 1 in./second. Use the same speed techique as stated previously.



I would also use another polish like SSR1 with polishing pad to help burnish the paint to clear up the marring that could have occured using the SSR2.5. As always go slow and chech your work often.



I have read from others that one can get a finished surface using SSR2.5. That has not been the case for me. I always follow SSR2.5 with SSR1.
Click to expand...



sorry..swirls reduced, but still there....still got micromarring, few spider webs-most of those are gone...



So SSR1 huh? what pad to use with this? also are SFX pads supposed to be good? just wondering



thanks
 
Here are some links I researched about rotary versus DA orbital:



http://www.properautocare.com/makhigspeedp3.html



http://www.properautocare.com/reswwaspincl.html



http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=47&page=1

"If you have a small area with deep damage that the PC 7424 cannot remove, you have a couple of choices: you can polish by hand using a heavy rubbing compound, you can wet sand with 1500 to 2000 grit paper, you can switch to a rotary buffer and a cutting polish, or you can live with the improvement you made."



http://www.superiorcarcare.net/professional-polishers.html

"the pros know that the only way to remove scratches, swirls, and oxidation is with a powerful circular polisher."



Granted, I have read that you can create a finish that hides most swirls with a PC.



This link was a huge help to me in understanding the process, pads and chemicals of using a PC - it's a video tutorial by Meguiars:

http://www.guidetodetailing.com/articles.php?articleId=31
 
NT2SHBBY said:
sorry..swirls reduced, but still there....still got micromarring, few spider webs-most of those are gone...



So SSR1 huh? what pad to use with this? also are SFX pads supposed to be good? just wondering



thanks
Click to expand...



I would repeat the process if marrring and scratches are still there. I know that I have often had to repeat the process to get the best paint surface attainable. Then follow up with SSR1 with a polishing pad to clean up the micro marring that can remain after SSR2.5 use.



Have only the Sonus SFX yellow cutting pad in my arsenal. I think it is a very good pad. With the yellow pad as my judge I would say that sonus sell very good pads.
 
cwcad said:
I would repeat the process if marrring and scratches are still there. I know that I have often had to repeat the process to get the best paint surface attainable. Then follow up with SSR1 with a polishing pad to clean up the micro marring that can remain after SSR2.5 use.



Have only the Sonus SFX yellow cutting pad in my arsenal. I think it is a very good pad. With the yellow pad as my judge I would say that sonus sell very good pads.
Click to expand...





interesting..will have to redo the process....I planned on it anyway-I want my Klasse twins and souveran on there..just was too lazy...lol
 
I suspect that the 2.5 leaves some micromarring with a strong pad. Follow up with a milder polish on a milder pad and that might solve your problem.
 
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