So can you actually remove swirls with a PC?

I

imported_DetailGirl1

New member
I did a saturn sc1 this weekend that was swirled I used the rotary but that thing is so hard to use, I went back to the PC. The swirls look like they are almost all gone cept for clear coat pitting which we cant get rid of. So are the PC swirls actually gone?
 
yes you can. the PC is like using your hand.. just much much much more effectively. Using the PC with say DACP and then moving to a lighter polish like 3M SMR or SSR 1 etc, is a very effective way to polish out swirl marks. The rotary IMO just makes things go much quicker, and can get the surface hot enough to work out the deep down swirls and imperfections. hope this helps!



Vernon
 
I've removed rotary swirls by hand and by PC. Real deep swirls will probably take a rotary or at least a Cyclo though.
 
I always get the rotary haze out with the pc, the rotary just tends to jump arund so much for me. It seems i can do as well with a yellow PC pad and some Mezerma or SSR 2.5
 
I've also been able to remove swirls with a PC, though for me, it takes a lot of patience and time. I'm probably not using the best technique, but I have been successful at getting rid of moderate swirls in my paint.
 
DetailGirl said:
Thanks David that post helped me so much!
Click to expand...



Okay, so I was being a bit of a smart arse.



I've been playing around with three different pre-polymer foams for a new line of 6" pads. The benefit of high density pre-polymer foams is that they have the ability to generate heat faster with less linear motion.



Now, you may ask yourself why I'd want to intentionally generate heat. After all who wants a buffer burn? Well, the reason most people have a difficult time removing swirls with a PC is because the pad can't break down the oxides in the polish. If you can't break down the abrasives, you can't "polish out".



To truly remove defects with a PC, you need polishes and pads to be correctly matched. The pad has got to generate enough working energy to make the polish do its job.



db
 
I have removed rotary swirls, nasty marring, bird crap etching, water spot etching, and oxidation with the PC. The right pads and product are only part of it. I crank it up to 6 and apply pressure and move the PC very slowly.





I keep reading about not being able to correct paint with the PC. If this is so how does one explain the hundreds of before and after pics of paint correction with the PC? Why are so many PC's being sold if they don't remove swirls? I can correct some defects by hand, it takes some time but I can do it. The PC is really a very fast hand. I know for a fact that PC's correct paint because I have done it many times since I purchased mine.
 
DavidB said:
Okay, so I was being a bit of a smart arse.



I've been playing around with three different pre-polymer foams for a new line of 6" pads. The benefit of high density pre-polymer foams is that they have the ability to generate heat faster with less linear motion.



Now, you may ask yourself why I'd want to intentionally generate heat. After all who wants a buffer burn? Well, the reason most people have a difficult time removing swirls with a PC is because the pad can't break down the oxides in the polish. If you can't break down the abrasives, you can't "polish out".



To truly remove defects with a PC, you need polishes and pads to be correctly matched. The pad has got to generate enough working energy to make the polish do its job.



db
Click to expand...



Its ok, I had to give it right back at cha!! ;)
 
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