SIP/rotary/1500rpms

Carbon Blue

New member
Well I plan on trying out a rotary some time soon on my dads beater van. I was planning on using a 5.5 inch LC orange pad, SIP and 1500 rpms on the makita. Is this too aggressive? Does the average conditioned car only need 1500rpms and a white LC pad? I have normally used 5.5inch orange LC pads on my UDM but now that im stepping up to a rotary maybe an orange pad on a rotary is overkill with SIP?
 
Because of paint hardness that is unknown you will have to give it a shot and see. I was attempting correction work on an Audi and SIP/rotary/1800 wasn't enough.
 
SIP has a bit of a learning curve. Just use a very little bit and work a small area at a time. Start slow to spread, increase to polish and then slow down again with no pressure. Work it till it's nearly completely gone or it WILL HOLOGRAM. Ask me how I know. SIP takes some practice to finish hologram free in full sun. Until you get good you may have to finish up with a finer polish like 106 to remove buffer trails and such.



Patrick
 
Carbon Blue said:
Well I plan on trying out a rotary some time soon on my dads beater van. I was planning on using a 5.5 inch LC orange pad, SIP and 1500 rpms on the makita.

In my limited experience, orange pads don't like to behave as well as white pads do with SIP when using a rotary. I'd much rather use a wool pad than a foam orange LC if the paint needs some decent correction. And if this is your first go around with a rotary I would suggest starting out with something mild until you get the feel of the process.....



Take your time and check your work as you do small sections. Keep a lot of clean MF towels near by and don't expect perfection. I had four cars in the family to practice on and I installed some real nice holograms in all of them. Knowing that you can remove those with a PC or your UDM with the next step will give you confidence in your quest....



Good luck and take your time........:xyxthumbs
 
again thanks for the info everyone. Its just that Iam so used to using orange pads on my UDM and having to do multiple passes to correct some sections. It just seems that a white pad with SIP seems too soft to do any major correcting jobs, but then again Iam using a rotary with a much higher speed vs my UDM. thanks for the info everyone.
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
SIP has a bit of a learning curve. Just use a very little bit and work a small area at a time. Start slow to spread, increase to polish and then slow down again with no pressure. Work it till it's nearly completely gone or it WILL HOLOGRAM. Ask me how I know. SIP takes some practice to finish hologram free in full sun. Until you get good you may have to finish up with a finer polish like 106 to remove buffer trails and such.



Patrick



I resemble these remarks. First time I used SIP with an orange pad and my Flex I had these exact same issues on my dad's Jag XKR. Scared the bejeezus out of me. Went back over the entire car with Micro Polish and it cleaned up nicely.
 
I've found that the CMA pads with the blue foam between the backing and orange foam do really well about not hopping. I don't know if it was alignment of the moons or not though.:D
 
SpoiledMan said:
I've found that the CMA pads with the blue foam between the backing and orange foam do really well about not hopping. I don't know if it was alignment of the moons or not though.:D



what are CMA pads? does AG sell them?
 
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