SIP feedback needed.

Don't worry about that warning. They had the same warning on PO106FF for a while, too. You'll get great results with either MSIP or BSRC, regardless of if you have a ceramiclear clear coat or not.
 
AudiOn19s said:
I've searched and found nothing but good things about SIP..but I'm still having a hard time justifying it.



Can I ask that everyone share their experiences with SIP here...specifically performance vs. other popular polishes.



When out on a Job I currently carry PG, IP, FP, 85RD, SSR2, SSR3, OHC (new), Poli-seal (if you really want to call that a polish) all with me.



I see all of these positive comments and realize I can probably carry SIP in place of a couple of the others listed but I still can't force myself to pull the trigger.



I'm looking for first hand experience here convincing me to get some...for example because it's that much better and will be a time saver over what I'm currently using.



Andy
Click to expand...





As mentioned, not to be used in the sun. Only downside that I could tell.

The stuff is like gold:D
 
DO NOT waste your money on IP if you already have SIP. SIP is a far superior product that does not dust AT ALL with a rotory. In fact, with proper polishing techniques it leaves very little residue whatsoever. Just wipe off with a dry MF and you'll be amazed at what lies beneath. The trick with SIP and an orange pad is to use VERY LITTLE PRODUCT. Like the size of 2 kernels of corn. Then work it in fully until it is absolutely clear. I paid $135 for the 3.02 from England and it was worth every penny. With proper technique I could polish my car about 50 times with one bottle so it is actually quite inexpensive when you think about it. Moreover, there is no need to keep buying more polishes. I am finally done and SIP with a rotory is the answer.



Patrick
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
DO NOT waste your money on IP if you already have SIP. SIP is a far superior product that does not dust AT ALL with a rotory. In fact, with proper polishing techniques it leaves very little residue whatsoever. Just wipe off with a dry MF and you'll be amazed at what lies beneath. The trick with SIP and an orange pad is to use VERY LITTLE PRODUCT. Like the size of 2 kernels of corn. Then work it in fully until it is absolutely clear. I paid $135 for the 3.02 from England and it was worth every penny. With proper technique I could polish my car about 50 times with one bottle so it is actually quite inexpensive when you think about it. Moreover, there is no need to keep buying more polishes. I am finally done and SIP with a rotory is the answer.



Patrick
Click to expand...



+1. Important parts of the post are in bold. :)
 
ptaylor_9849 said:
DO NOT waste your money on IP if you already have SIP. SIP is a far superior product that does not dust AT ALL with a rotory. In fact, with proper polishing techniques it leaves very little residue whatsoever. Just wipe off with a dry MF and you'll be amazed at what lies beneath. The trick with SIP and an orange pad is to use VERY LITTLE PRODUCT. Like the size of 2 kernels of corn. Then work it in fully until it is absolutely clear. I paid $135 for the 3.02 from England and it was worth every penny. With proper technique I could polish my car about 50 times with one bottle so it is actually quite inexpensive when you think about it. Moreover, there is no need to keep buying more polishes. I am finally done and SIP with a rotory is the answer.



Patrick
Click to expand...

Well said Patrick! I am glad to see everything worked out for you on your Vette. I can't wait to see it now. :hifive: Glad you took the ride to my house and learned the right way with the best system possible.



By the way we are all trying to get a local meet together in the near future.
 
On Ryan's advice, I tried SIP with the LC Orange Cutting Pad, and this is the most amazing combination I have ever tried on a rotary ever. It removes marring from hard clearcoats almost instantally. On softer or darker paints, you might want to switch to a softer, less aggressive pad to finish down to perfection, though its almost an optional step.



A couple hints I have used...



I draw my product on the paint then pick it up with the buffer, as such I use a thin, 4 inch strip.



Work the product at slow RPM until it is spread evenly then bring up the RPMS and work until it starts to break down. Make a couple more passes at full speed, then one or two passes over the area with the RPM back down. The finish is amazing, but definetly work it in at a slower rpm first until it spread perfectly even.



Keep your pad clean, as it loads with product, it will become grabby and gummy. Either switch to a new pad or clean it against a terry cloth after each section or two.



Enjoy the best polish known to man.
 
Rydawg, that sounds like fun. Thanks again for sharing your knowlege and polishing technique with me. By the way, if anyone in the New England area is looking for an awesome detailer then look no further than Rydawg in NH. He will make your finish look like showroom condition. Believe me, he's worth the drive.



Patrick
 
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