SIP Acting Funny? PICS

thanks for the suggestion SuperBee, looks like purple wool be in the next shopping cart checkout! what size backing plate do you use with the 6.5inch lc purple foam wool SB? AG seems to suggest to use a 6inch BP and was wondering if my 4 3/4inch BP would be ok
 
SuperBee364 said:
How long are you getting with wool, Picus?
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Good question; I am not sure I've ever used SIP with wool. Believe it or not I haven't used a foam wool pad. :nervous2: Like everything, they are kind of hard to find here in Canuckistan. When I use real wool I am normally using HTEC or PG.
 
Got no problems at all with you or your post Superbee, It's just my style to burnish each polish down to 600 to 900 rpm for maximum results

Does it cost time - perhaps but I never get any buffer trails, holograms, swirls or anything and thats what I want.

It probably doesn't suit other people's styles and those who have less time to do their work

I have plenty



Perhaps there is a difference between SIP (US) and PO85RD 3.01 (australia)

Also those who report hopping pads, you may be dealing with sticky clearcoat, common with waterborne paints today



To combat this, I add more parrafin oil and glycerin to the mix)

This means no pad hopping and longer working time



60 seconds, well perhaps it is enough but might leave some holograms but I've gotten used to spending more time.



It's hard to tell if you've overworked it. Still got the oil spreading look.

Start with superbee's advice and you should be fine

If people get the same results with SIP at 60 to 90 seconds as I do with 2.5 to 4 mins of factory standard 85RD then that is fine



I just hate leaving swirls and marring from not breaking it down enough and find that 1 to 2 mins has barely given me time to get to 1500 rpm to 1600 let alone burnish it



During my R&D testing and formulating in the lab, I'll muck around with 85RD 3.01 and see if 60 to 90 seconds gets the job done

Usually when the oily film is cloudy and not transparent, it's not broken down yet



Dave KG from Detailing world spends similar if not same amount of time with Menzerna as I do
 
SVR said:
Got no problems at all with you or your post Superbee, It's just my style to burnish each polish down to 600 to 900 rpm for maximum results

Does it cost time - perhaps but I never get any buffer trails, holograms, swirls or anything and thats what I want.

It probably doesn't suit other people's styles and those who have less time to do their work

I have plenty



Perhaps there is a difference between SIP (US) and PO85RD 3.01 (australia)

Also those who report hopping pads, you may be dealing with sticky clearcoat, common with waterborne paints today



To combat this, I add more parrafin oil and glycerin to the mix)

This means no pad hopping and longer working time



60 seconds, well perhaps it is enough but might leave some holograms but I've gotten used to spending more time.



It's hard to tell if you've overworked it. Still got the oil spreading look.

Start with superbee's advice and you should be fine

If people get the same results with SIP at 60 to 90 seconds as I do with 2.5 to 4 mins of factory standard 85RD then that is fine



I just hate leaving swirls and marring from not breaking it down enough and find that 1 to 2 mins has barely given me time to get to 1500 rpm to 1600 let alone burnish it



During my R&D testing and formulating in the lab, I'll muck around with 85RD 3.01 and see if 60 to 90 seconds gets the job done

Usually when the oily film is cloudy and not transparent, it's not broken down yet



Dave KG from Detailing world spends similar if not same amount of time with Menzerna as I do
Click to expand...



Do you finish up with 106ff? If so doesn't that kill any holograms that SIp might leave?
 
Yeah, but I don't want to leave holograms at any time and I believe that if you burnish each polish down finely, you will achieve a slightly higher gloss



Another thing I just thought off

I use a makita 9227 and start at 600, perhaps those who use a different machine and start at 1000 will get less working time

Also I do not use any pressure when polishing, just the weight of the machine

When we use pressure during the polishing, that will also shorten the working time



I do 20 seconds at 600 to get the lubricants spreading properly, then lift to 900, 1200, 1400, 1500, sometimes up to 1700 and then back to 1200, 1000, 900, 750, 600



Probably do it this way cause I just love polishing.

Can we stop at 900 at the end, most likely. Probably fine but I guess I'm strange and like to be different.



On occasions I actually do some pre sale detailing and just use 85RD and burnish that down finely and leave it at that.



It doesn't mean I'm better than anyone else here. No way at all

Finally, if any of you disagree with my style, any way I work or my opinion on something, go ahead and post

You'll never start an argument with me or vice versa

I'm very humble and just appreciate all of you sharing your knowledge and I respect everyone



Life's too short to argue

As long as we make them cars shiny, thats the goal.
 
Carbon Blue said:
thanks for the suggestion SuperBee, looks like purple wool be in the next shopping cart checkout! what size backing plate do you use with the 6.5inch lc purple foam wool SB? AG seems to suggest to use a 6inch BP and was wondering if my 4 3/4inch BP would be ok
Click to expand...



That's the one that I use.. the one that has the round hole in the middle for centering the LC pads on it.
 
SVR said:
Yeah, but I don't want to leave holograms at any time and I believe that if you burnish each polish down finely, you will achieve a slightly higher gloss



Another thing I just thought off

I use a makita 9227 and start at 600, perhaps those who use a different machine and start at 1000 will get less working time

Also I do not use any pressure when polishing, just the weight of the machine

When we use pressure during the polishing, that will also shorten the working time



I do 20 seconds at 600 to get the lubricants spreading properly, then lift to 900, 1200, 1400, 1500, sometimes up to 1700 and then back to 1200, 1000, 900, 750, 600



Probably do it this way cause I just love polishing.

Can we stop at 900 at the end, most likely. Probably fine but I guess I'm strange and like to be different.



On occasions I actually do some pre sale detailing and just use 85RD and burnish that down finely and leave it at that.



It doesn't mean I'm better than anyone else here. No way at all

Finally, if any of you disagree with my style, any way I work or my opinion on something, go ahead and post

You'll never start an argument with me or vice versa

I'm very humble and just appreciate all of you sharing your knowledge and I respect everyone



Life's too short to argue

As long as we make them cars shiny, thats the goal.
Click to expand...



That sounds like a great polishing technique... I usually do that with finishing polishes, but not so much with either compounds or medium weight polishes. I really liked that method alot with 106ff, which was great to work with, cause you could polish it all day without overworking it. Ultrafina, OTOH, won't really let you do the slow-faster-slow again technique... it just breaks down really fast. SIP with the foamed wool goes quick, too. Adding just a touch of 106 to sip really does help with the working time, which allows it to finish off really nicely.



Anyway, very cool post SVR, always good to chat about differing techniques...Even more fun to try them and go, "Oh, yeah... now I see what he means! That is cool..."
 
Thanks superbee



I gave 85RD a go for 2 to 2.5 mins and the results were fully broken down but not as many marks were removed as doing 3 to 4 mins



I love my purple foamed wool though it always leaves some marring behind

No doubt that SIP and foamed wool has a very short working time



My only concern with foamed wool vs orange foam and SIP is that foamed wool may be too stronger cut than orange



Sure its cooler but wool cuts deeper from my experience
 
I think it's best to work SIP until it goes clear, as long as there's still an oily film, I don't see any harm in working it longer. There's a lot of variables that determines when the polish is broken down and goes clear, eg.: the amount of polish used, type of pad, pressure applied, speed, temperature, humidity etc. So I don't think there's a specific work time, just look for when the polish goes clear, and be careful not to buff dry. That being said 3-4 minutes seems longer than necessary..
 
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