Single stage white questions

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02whitetundra

New member
Like my username, I have a 2002 Toyota Tundra with single stage white paint. I'm having problems keeping the paint "clean". After using KAIO as a paint cleaner, the paint looks great..... for about one week.



My process is usually applying KAIO by D.A. then either using FK1000P or UPGP for the LSP. Later during the week and after an ONR wash, I can clearly see that the single stage paint is basically soaking in all the dirt and in order to remove it, I have to use a paint cleaner such as KAIO. I would assume that using the above LSP's would give the paint a layer of protection. Not so in this case.



For those who have experience with single stage white, what are some good recommendations to keep the paint cleaner for longer than a week??
 
How glossy is the surface?



If it's clean and white, but sort of dull without much shine, it's probably oxidized. An oxidized surface is porous and allows dirt to collect quickly and remained trapped.



A mild cleaner like KAIO can remove the dirt but not enough of the oxidized layer to keep it from happening again.



If this is the case, you'll need to buff it with a much stronger product/process. (Many ss white finishes are very tough and require a very aggressive process to clean up. My truck's white ss paint takes a rotary and a heavy compound to pull defects out of it.)





pc
 
Single stage white, you have soiling deep in the pores of the paint film.

When you do what you have been doing, all you are doing is like when a woman puts on make-up, you are not "cleaning the pores" of the paint.

Once the "make-up" evaporates, the condition is still there.

Single stages will oxidize and that means that the top of the white single stage is "porus" and so the enviormental, the dirt, etc contaminates, with a little moisture, will "go down" into that porisity and all you are doing is wiping some stuff over the top of it.

The FK1000 is one of the strongest protective products you may be able to put on the vehicle, but, got to clean the pores and clay, etc, will not do that.

You may not be aware that you already answered your question when you state that the "single stage paint" is basically soaking all the dirt, etc in.

Oxidation will make that take place.

You need an approved and safe decon system to get the paint's pores actually clean.

Clay won't do that, nor will polishes, etc, takes a safe product system to remove most of the oxidation and the soiling from the pores.

Grumpy
 
Would IronX fit the bill here in your opinion? After the KAIO step, the paint looks clean and appears that no oxidation is present. Maybe I'm wrong and should go on with more of a decontamination step.
 
Nope, while it may do some things, it is not a product that is approved or endorsed by any vehicle manufactuer.

Which would indicate that the use of such may create, in the long term, more problems than which it is promoted to resolve.

Grumpy
 
Need to hit it hard enough to get rid of the dead layer of paint on top. I've found that surprisingly (since it wasn't developed for single stage paints) is that Optimum Hyper Polish and a microfiber pad work very well. Probably need 3-4 pads since they will clog up fast even if you brush them out after each panel. Once you get to the good paint below, it should not oxidize nearly as quickly as it has been. Then you will need to follow up religiously every 3 months.



Might also want to give Toyota an earful about using single stage white paint because they still do.
 
Scottwax said:
Need to hit it hard enough to get rid of the dead layer of paint on top. I've found that surprisingly (since it wasn't developed for single stage paints) is that Optimum Hyper Polish and a microfiber pad work very well. Probably need 3-4 pads since they will clog up fast even if you brush them out after each panel. Once you get to the good paint below, it should not oxidize nearly as quickly as it has been. Then you will need to follow up religiously every 3 months.



Might also want to give Toyota an earful about using single stage white paint because they still do.
Click to expand...



Yeah, MF pads clog up very fast with oxidized SS. I did a red Celica a few months back and couldn't do more than a quarter of a fender before the pad got so clogged it couldn't go any further, but this thing was so oxidized it was bright pink instead of red. Switched to yellow LC and it went much better but still had to switch pads almost every panel.
 
These articles from TOGWT® Autopia Detailing Wiki may provide useful information–



“What will decontamination remove that washing / clay will not? “ - http://www.autopia.org/forum/guide-...-decontamination-remove-washing-will-not.html



“ValuGard Paint Decontamination System� - http://www.autopia.org/forum/autopi...42-valugard-paint-decontamination-system.html





If you have any questions about this article or the techniques used, please let me know or feel free to send me an email
 
I'm doing one next week. A white SS Nissan Tiida. So oxidized that the wash water was running onto the pavement WHITE like milk. I usually use UNO with a PFW or 3D black wool pad, cleaning pads after each pass with compressed air. A couple of passes usually yields excellent results.
 
For me oxidation=wool and a rotary. The wool stays cleaner longer and the "dead" paint is cut thru, not filled with oils from the polish. A quick pass after with a DA and D300 and if you chose, HD polish and I think you'll be amazed at the results.
 
On my single stage white Honda I have found the best combination is Optimum Poli-Seal to clean the paint. Everything else I tried seems to leave difficult to remove residue. Then after IPA wipe down, Opti-Coat. That combination seems to work the best and last the longest.
 
An oxidized surface is porous and allows dirt to collect quickly and remained trapped.
a16.jpg
k3.jpg
 
Alfisti said:
Poli-Seal doesn't really have any cut. How do you deal with REALLY oxidized paint?
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Noting that I haven't dealt with this for quite a while....I'd use one of Meguiar's old-school "Cleaners" (M01/M02/M04), which have chemical cleaners as well as abrasives. Those chemical cleaners can be so potent that you have to be a little careful lest you end up with an uneven appearance. Rotary and wool with such stuff...



Single stage paints just seem to call for the old Meguiar's Mirror Glaze stuff, which was designed for single stage.
 
Accumulator said:
Single stage paints just seem to call for the old Meguiar's Mirror Glaze stuff, which was designed for single stage.
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Definitely not the 80s series stuff though, really disappointed in how ineffective #80 and #82 were on a (at the time) 15 year old Land Bruiser. Thats when I found out how good OHP was at eating oxidation.



#9 actually works well if the oxidation isn't too deep but I didn't have any with me to compare to OHP.
 
Scottwax said:
Definitely not the 80s series stuff though, really disappointed in how ineffective #80 and #82 were on a (at the time) 15 year old Land Bruiser...
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Roger that on the 80s-series stuff and single stage! Between the different abrasives and the different cleaners (or more like..."what cleaners?!?") I wasn't happy with 'em on single stage either.



Thats when I found out how good OHP was at eating oxidation.
Click to expand...



Ah, never tried that! Thanks for mentioning it.



#9 actually works well if the oxidation isn't too deep but I didn't have any with me to compare to OHP.
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Yeah, another good (for what it is) old-school Mirror Glaze product. Does a fair bit of concealing too, at least when used via non-rotary means. Nice stuff on old ss that can't take much correction. I think of it as a "usually better for me" alternative to 3Ms older swirl-removers.
 
Or, just ABC the vehicle and watch the majority of the oxidized paint wash off.

Cut's buff time by 2/3rds.

It works, done it for years, saves a ton of time and heart ache.

Grumpy
 
Ron Ketcham said:
Or, just ABC the vehicle and watch the majority of the oxidized paint wash off.

Cut's buff time by 2/3rds.

It works, done it for years, saves a ton of time and heart ache.

Grumpy
Click to expand...



I recently acquired a red '86 4Runner with some oxidation that I need to address (not too bad). I was wondering about ABC in this role and this project may be the kick in the butt I needed to finally try it.



The removable top is also red and oxidized as well. However, due to the texture of the surface, I don't think polishing is an option. For that piece I just want to remove as much of the oxidation as possible prior to applying an LSP (toying with the idea of applying some Opti-Coat I have on hand).
 
Kean said:
For that piece I just want to remove as much of the oxidation as possible prior to applying an LSP (toying with the idea of applying some Opti-Coat I have on hand).
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To OC it you need to remove ALL the oxidation, not just "as much as possible", otherwise it won't bond.



Also, keep in mind OC is designed for clear-coated paint not SS, so even a perfect SS finish may have unpredictable durability/finish issues.
 
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