Single stage paint

A

ACURA95

New member
Hello fellow autopians,

About two years ago I got a paint job on my black car and its not what I thought it was. After doing alot of research, I realize its single stage paint and doesnt have a clearcoat.



I went to the body shop that did the work and they said they would prorate my old paint job and only charge an adittional $550 to repaint it with a basecoat/clearcoat.



I know most of you have clearcoat finishes and I was wondering you opinion on this. My car is a 95 and was going to keep it a few more years, but I dont know if single stage is good enough so I am looking for opinions from all sides.



TIA
 
most european cars have singlestage finishes and most of todays vehicles are bc/cc. i would say its fine and as long as you detail and keep up with it regularly you should be ok. i dont like the bc/cc paint that s out now and days cause it has too much orange peel even coming from the factory so id stick with it unless you want to fork out the 500 just to redo it
 
I dont really want to fork over the $550 especially because the car is a 95, but I am concerned about eventually removing all of the paint.



I can definitely maintain it every month. I am also considering getting out all of the perfections and getting a clearcoat sprayed on top of it.



Does anyone know when you buff out a single stage paint job, and the paint is removed, if the buffing pad cleans up or is it no good anymore?
 
I actually prefer the look of black SS paint. CC makes the slightest scratch or swirl 100 times more noticeable. They stand out as a white blemish on the black background.



Black is the softest ss color paint and this makes it very easy to remove swirls and minor scratches. It also makes it very easy to cause these blemishes so just an extra bit of care is needed when washing and wiping your paint. Being soft you need less abrasive products to polish out defects.



I'd opt to not have it clear-coated.
 
I believe Toyota and Lexus use single stage on their black cars. I would stick with the single stage unless you really wanted to the look of a two stage paint job.
 
jfe,

what product would you use to remove marring then? I was going to DACP (yellow pad), followed with a white pad then glaze.



Just spoke with cma and the guy there said its going to be near impossible to get the paint to look good.
 
Ben,

I have never been able to get all the marring out after it was painted but I never tried to use a PC when doing so either. Im concerned about using up a set of pads everytime I detail and removing too much paint.



There is a polyeurthane harder/sealer in the paint but they is going to stop the paint transfer.



I'm not disagreeing with you, Im just trying to see it from all angles.



I meant the sealer is not going to stop the paint transfer.
 
ACURA95 said:
jfe,



Just spoke with cma and the guy there said its going to be near impossible to get the paint to look good.
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Why is that? I don't get it. If the paint job is a quality one, save your $$. It's a diiferent look to a BC/CC. Not better or worse but just different. Also it's all paint that you can polish and work with, right down to the primer. Today's single stage urethanes are quite impressive. As mentioned above, if you care for it the right way it should last you quite a bit of time. What was the original paint job BTW?



Here's my 1988 single stage 16 year old paint, except for the nose.



bmw.jpg
 
Your car does look nice, It was factor untill abot two years ago and has been single stage ever since. As foar as quality goes, I dont think its the best quality dupont paint. I truthfully dont maintain it the way I should because its so much work by hand being a black car.



When I simply used the megs basic three step system on a couple of test spots, it looked pretty good but still marred. I did this by hand ofcourse.



Nick,

Do you use an orbital on your car, and if so do you have alot of trouble with buffing pads when you remove the paint
 
ACURA95 said:
Nick,

Do you use an orbital on your car, and if so do you have alot of trouble with buffing pads when you remove the paint
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I mostly used a PC , and more recently the Cyclo. A rotary is pulled out for deeper scrathes. You should be fine with a PC. The only thing with the pads is that the paint sheds onto them and they require some extra cleaning. Keep in mind that CC is basically paint without the pigment. Black and red cars were often done in SS in the past whereas other colors were BC/CC
 
NickC said:
The only thing with the pads is that the paint sheds onto them and they require some extra cleaning. Keep in mind that CC is basically paint without the pigment. Black and red cars were often done in SS in the past whereas other colors were BC/CC
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Thanks, Im really starting to feel better about having no CC.

Are you able to reuse the pads several times and which pads do you use? Also how often do you polish, and wax your car? I was told you have to polish and wax every month. Is this true?



Do you recommend different products than what I listed above?



Sorry for asking so many questions, still learning.



TIA
 
ACURA95 said:
Are you able to reuse the pads several times and which pads do you use? Also how often do you polish, and wax your car? I was told you have to polish and wax every month. Is this true?



Do you recommend different products than what I listed above?



Sorry for asking so many questions, still learning.



TIA
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Sure you can use the pads several times. I've used the LC pads with the PC. Yellow, orange, and white. I just ordered the Sonus pads to try out. You polish as needed. On average that could be 1-2 times a year. In terms of waxing, it depends how durable your wax is, as well as the conditions the car is exposed to. Keep an eye on the beading or just throw on a coat after washing every 4-6 weeks. I don't know the condition of your paint but the DACP should be a good starting point if your paint hasn't been cared for in some time. Then move to something less aggressive such Menzerna IP and FP, or VM.
 
I have 14 year old Crimson Red MR2 with ss paint. I removed the swirls with Megs #9. I wouldn't use #83 as it will haze. Once I had removed the swirls I maintain it with this set. There are a number of great products from other manufacturers that will work well also.



Gold Class Wash

MPPC

#7

#26 or NXT



You can judge for yourself on how it is looking below.



Yes, your pads will pick up the paint color and it will not fully wash out but that doesn't hurt the pad. You can use the pads on any other car without problem.



559MR2_Hood2.jpg


559MR2_Front.jpg


559Rear_quarter2.JPG
 
I heard alot of good things about #16. I called meguiars and they said Dacp with a yellow pad should work well and if it hazes, your working the product too much.



Do you think its necessary to use Dacp, #82, and then #16, maybe some nxt wax in there.



Can you just skip the 82 and go right to #16. I have to order some products and dont want to leave anything out.



TIA
 
WoW!! Jfe- it looks awesome, very reflective.



I might need something a little more aggressive however because my paint hasnt been maintained in quite sometime.



I wish I had a camera so I could show you what I was talking about. Im going to see if I can borrow my friends tonight and post some pics.
 
ACURA95 said:
I heard alot of good things about #16. I called meguiars and they said Dacp with a yellow pad should work well and if it hazes, your working the product too much.



Do you think its necessary to use Dacp, #82, and then #16, maybe some nxt wax in there.



Can you just skip the 82 and go right to #16. I have to order some products and dont want to leave anything out.



TIA
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I think you're gonna need the #82 after the #83. Getting #83 just right on ss black will be tricky.



As I just finished ranting about on another thread, Meg's phone reps are, to put it politely, not reliable sources of accurate information. You want to work DACP/#83 until it's basically gone, turned to powder. It's far more likely to haze from *not being worked long ENOUGH*.



If you just stay ahead of the game, not waiting until your ss paint really *needs* waxed, it'll hold up fine. Just be careful about how you wash/dry it, and be sorta conservative about removing marring, and you'll be fine. Don't worry about how awful your pads might look with all the black paint transferring to them, it's really not a problem.
 
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