should i bump it a level on abrasiveness?
- Thread starter Asonyexec
- Start date
Thomas Dekany
New member
I have only used LC pads and their white polishing pad (light cutting) with #80 will do the trick. Use the orange pad or sonus green before you spend more money.
togwt
The Old Grey Whistle Test
Quote: You know, Eliot's idea never occurred to me - increase the aggressiveness of the pad what a simple fix and no need to buy more product. I will certainly try switching pads first.
~One manâ€â„¢s opinion / observations~
Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:
Always start with the least abrasive combination, if that combination of foam pad and polish doesnâ€â„¢t remove the surface imperfections, proceed using the same grade of polish but change to a more aggressive foam pad. Once you are satisfied that the surface imperfections have been removed, proceed by using the least abrasive polish / foam pad combination to remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢.
If none of these combinations remove the surface imperfections, and only if necessary â€Ëœstep-upâ€â„¢ to a more abrasive polish using the same foam pads It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.
The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product.
The abrading ability of these compounds can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability)
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
~One manâ€â„¢s opinion / observations~
Machine Polish / Foam Pad Combinations:
Always start with the least abrasive combination, if that combination of foam pad and polish doesnâ€â„¢t remove the surface imperfections, proceed using the same grade of polish but change to a more aggressive foam pad. Once you are satisfied that the surface imperfections have been removed, proceed by using the least abrasive polish / foam pad combination to remove the â€Ëœcompounding hazeâ€â„¢.
If none of these combinations remove the surface imperfections, and only if necessary â€Ëœstep-upâ€â„¢ to a more abrasive polish using the same foam pads It is preferable to polish 2-3 times to restore the paint film surface than to use an unnecessarily abrasive machine polish / foam pad combination.
The use of abrasive type polish / cleaners should always be restricted to specific problems. Most original paint finishes are tougher on the outer surface than the layers underneath. The outer layers should be preserved as far as possible. Always use the least aggressive product first, evaluate the surface, then only if necessary `step-up' to a more abrasive product.
The abrading ability of these compounds can be changed by their application method (i.e. machine or hand application, speed and/or pressure used, using wet or dry and/or type of foam (different foam compositions have a differing abrading ability)
~Hope this helps~
Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
thedarksyde
New member
Where can I purchase PI III RC and MG, I do not see it available at Auto Geek or Autopia.
Eliot Ness
Active member
thedarksyde said:
Here is a link from 3M that will locate a dealer in your area, I tried it and it showed the usual stores that I deal with locally for 3M detailing supplies.
http://selector.3m.com/aad_wtb/ss.asp?FAM=distributors
There are also on-line vendors that sell the 3M line if you do a Google search.
Mr Ness -
I think I will take your advice and give the 3M PI III mach glaze a try. I don't think my paint is in bad enough shape to warrant the use of a rubbing compund.
I know you said the car can be sealed or waxed right after the 3M mach glaze application but would it be a waste of time to follow up with the 3M finishing glaze? I have AIO in my stock pile of product if that is a better option.
Thanks
I think I will take your advice and give the 3M PI III mach glaze a try. I don't think my paint is in bad enough shape to warrant the use of a rubbing compund.
I know you said the car can be sealed or waxed right after the 3M mach glaze application but would it be a waste of time to follow up with the 3M finishing glaze? I have AIO in my stock pile of product if that is a better option.
Thanks
Eliot Ness
Active member
Asonyexec said:
I wouldnâ€â„¢t use Finishing Glaze. FG is made to put on fresh paint for some protection while it allows the paint to cure. According to the 3M Rep who does demo's it's good for about 3 or 4 washes.
Iâ€â„¢ve always been able to go straight to a sealer/wax after MG, and since MG has no fillers it will leave your finish clean and ready for your LSP. While I donâ€â„¢t think AIO is necessary, it is a good prep for almost anything you want to top it with, goes on/off pretty easy with a polish pad, and will clean up any product residue you may have missed.