Severly Messed Up My Black Truck

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pmagill

New member
Hey guys.. I screwed this one up royally..



I just got my pc with some sonus pads... experimented alittle on my old cadillac that is like champagne colored with great results..that was using meguiars pads...today i go after my black truck (2001 Silverado) .. with the sonus pads and Poorboys SSR 2.5.. the swirling was pretty bad so i hit the majority of the truck 2 to 3 times.. that was fine.. i was using the green pad from sonus.. so then i go over it with SSR 1 and the blue pad from sonus and all of a sudden i get the nastying marring i've ever seen.. it looks so bad.. you can see buffer trails and i was working on 5 and med pressure.. i worked it all for a decent amount of time... came of pretty easily and all. the truck looks good in the shade but horrible in the light.. so i tried switching back to the meguiars purple pad with #83 and it isn't even fazing this stuff.. it looks like tiny silver pieces all over my black paint.. how do i get it out?



oh and i tried #7 with a meg yellow pad to no avail
 
Always start low, 1 then work up to 4 to dry haze. Always always, start with the lower polish first. I don't use Poorboys. I use Sonus SFX or 1z.

From my experience I would never go over a car 2 to 3 cars with a polish. Always start on the less abrasive and use the green it's non cutting pad. Then if it doesn't get it all then go to a more cutting polish and use the orange cutting pad and get the areas that didn't come out.

The blue pad is for sealents or waxes. it doesn't have any cutting.

What I think happened you used the wrong pad, to fast so it heated up and you polished to much with one type of polish.

I will link this to somebody with more expertise in Poorboys.



I start with a light polish and do 2x2 area at a time. If some area I still have problems with I go to a cutting polish like Sonus SFX #1. Then I go over the car with a super light polish like SFX-3 or 1z Metallic to restore shine or get some haze out from heavy polish.

If you keep polishing with the same polish it's going to marry worse and remove more of the clear coat maybe paint.
 
Here's some links



Here's what Sonus Pads are used for what:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/son-daspad-kit.html



Awesome easy to use polish. Great directions and great results:

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/sfx.html

Search for my review and others review on it. They tell you how to use it and benefits.



Autopia-carcar.com has great "how to-s" on everything. Always do research.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html



Just trying to help, not insulting. I PM this thread to some people that use Poorboys alot.
 
Hmm, first you should have worked both polishes with the geen pad. I might have even gone over the whole truck with a cutting pad and 2.5 just to make sure everything was out and then followed with the green pad (2.5) and finally the green pad again with #1. Now, to do this you would have needed two green pads. Don't ever use the same pad for varying grades of polish, big mistake.



Before we get into how to fix it, let's look at your process. I see that you used speed 5 which is fine, that's what I use for all my polishing duties. At first I start off a little slow to get the pad loaded and then go to 5. How much product are you using? How big of an area are you working at a time? How long do you work the product before removing it? Answer these and we will go from there.



I will tell you that, you might have to start completely over but before you do, we need to figure out whey this happened as to avoid it from happening again.
 
Just to add to Jason's Questions:

1) It would help if you could post some pictures of the "Tiny Silver Pieces"

2) Explain what you meant that you hit the majority of the truck 2-3 times.

3) How did it look after you removed the SSR2.5 before using the 1.0?

4) I would not have expected to see any marring with 1.0 and the blue pad., howw specifically did you apply and remove it
 
pmagill1421



you can see buffer trails and i was working on 5 and med pressure..
Click to expand...



I'm not sure what you mean by "med pressure", and the reason I say that is I don't really use any pressure. When I have used pressure the Meg's pads seperated on me. However what you say is med pressure might be the same thing as me so no pressure.



you can see buffer trails
Click to expand...

I haven't heard or had any experience getting buffer trails with a PC, with my rotary yes--not my PC. How hard where you pressing?



oh and i tried #7 with a meg yellow pad to no avail
Click to expand...



If I remember correctly #7 is a show car glaze. I tried applying it once with a PC and it gummed up on me. I believe #7 is best applied by hand. #7 has no polishes, so it won't remove anything.



I assuming you are using Microfibers.



JDookie said



I will tell you that, you might have to start completely over but before you do, we need to figure out whey this happened as to avoid it from happening again.
Click to expand...

I agree with that statement.
 
Ok Guys sorry for the lack of info.. (by the way, i think that it's just severe hazing from not working the product enough)

First Wash With Dish Soap, Clay

Wash Again..

SSR 2.5 (Green Pad) - Pressure was me pressing it onto the surface with about 15lbs pressure

Working 2x2 sections give or take a little... i first moved the pad around to smear the product (three nickel to quarter size dabs on the pad in a triangle) then immediately started it at 5. I worked the product first left to right overlapping half way the last pass, then vertical same technique then diagonal the same technique again. If it started dusting by then I would stop and wipe with a sonus MF till it was gone.. This looked good, is some spots there was sever swirling and after applying once, i reapplied the same technique to the same spot.. one one panel i did it three times to each section. The rest of the truck got it twice pretty much.

SSR 1 (Orange Pad) - Barely any pressure, just running it over the surface

I think I started to get tired at this point but the truck was looking pretty good (no direct sunlight)... So I started using less product working more like 3x3 sections.. Same technique but the product wouldn't dust after maybe two routines so i stopped and wiped it off with a seperate sonus MF. Moved to next section and repeat.

Meguiars #26 (New 100% cotton Terry Applicator)

Super light coat of this. Didn't leave it for long cause I had to leave soon. Wiped it off..

The Real Trouble Starts

Went to Leave, pulled it out into the sun, and there were horizontal buffing marks.. I got pissed but had to leave.. I washed all the pads in Der Wunder Wasche and set them out.. Got home pulled the Orange Pad out (slightly damp, blew it out with the air compressor, and spun some more water out on the PC) Went back to truck with SSR1 (pressure was more than 15lbs).. Didn't remove the wax, no wash... (i think that was a big mistake)... Started working it with the same technique but it would not dust for anything..

Got some micro marring and haziness. I switched to a Meg's Yellow Pad with #7 (now I know it was a mistake), no change, switch to Megs Purple pad with #83 (Good Amount of Pressure) Couldn't get it to dust (pad very very slight damp). This is were the haziness got bad. I stopped cause I figured I had done enough damage.. I think It all needs to be redone. Stripped and rebuffed. But I only have the pads mentioned (Megs Yellow (#7), Megs Purple (#83), Sonus Green (SSR 2.5) Sonus Blue (#7) Sonus Orange(SSR1) I don't have a picture and I'm leaving for vegas at 3:30 a.m. but I think i need to wait for the pads to completely dry, go back with SSR1 and work it till it dusts. I will have access to internet in vegas and I'm taking all my supplies with me in case I have time (visiting in laws till tuesday)... Please reply with some help .. Thanks for any tips



Product: Those listed above and

Poorboys QD, Poorboys Spray And Wipe

Meg #83, #7, #26
 
In order to fix the entire truck we must first find a regimen that will repair a single spot (1'x1'). When I have a problem like this with black, I first tape off this size of an area. Then I start with the mildest polish I have and a sponge pad. By hand I try to correct the surface marring. If this mild polish does work I move up the scale and again try to rectify the marring but this time it is a 2-step process (slightly harsher polish followed by milder polish). At this point you should see some type of response by hand correction. As you discover the regimen that is corrected by hand application of polish (e.i. Meg LC, IP, and FP) you can adapt these regimen to the PC. I rarely use a PC cutting pad because of its marring potential especially on black vehicles. I prefer to use polishing pads, differing polish abrasivenesses and pressure variation. A PC is just a automated hand applicator.

Your problem can be corrected by yourself. It just will take time to find the correct polish sequence and application pressure variations.

You might want to invest in some better lighting so that the bright sunlight revelations do not happen again. If not, do a section and evaluate under a many lighting situations as possible before proceeding to do the entire vehicle.

Hope this helps.
 
You are right about working the SSRs with dry pads. They will not break down properly if your pads are damp; I've even experienced breakdown issues due to very high humidity. As blkZ28Conv suggrested try working a small area first to get it right so you can take the least aggressive approach to getting the car right.



I agree with you that SSR 1 with a dry pad would remove probably the hazing too. If the hazing remains, I'd try SSR 2.5 then go back over it with SSR 1.
 
Are you trying to correct the problem with a cutting pad and #7?



Go back to SSR2.5 and a polishing pad on a small area and see what that does. I think you will just have to start all over, and 15lbs of pressure is too much. Push down on the PC when running until it bogs, slowly ease up until it stops bogging and that is the correct amount of pressure.
 
Menzerna polishes perform better with dampened pads, that's why I like them. You can even extend that polish with water if you need too, real cool stuff. Too may people don't use rotary's because they are afraid of them. If you keep the speed low 2-4 and don't apply much pressure, rotary's cut with more persision IMO. Stop what you are doing and go pay a pro, you are in over your head, and if your not careful you will be repainting. After a pro fixes this you can learn on something else. Don't feel bad black paint takes a lot of experience. It is the wrong color for your first total polishing experience, black will show every mistake. After you hire a pro ask him if you can watch. Tell him all you want is the paint correction because it sounds like you like to detail cars, and i'm sure you can do all the sealant stuff yourself. It probably wouldnt cost more than a hundred or two tops. Better than taking a chance with 3 thousand dollar paint job on a realitively new truck. If your going to try it yourself, all I have to say is good luck bud maybe it will turn out good your third try.
 
Sorry for not replying for a long time. I was out of town for a few days and all.. Anyways, I went back and bought hand applicating foam pads and went over the truck one section at a time with SSR 2.5... then did the whole truck with SSR1 after that... twice in some places.. I'd say 95% of the damage is gone now.. Only one panel that was already severly damaged (from a detailer who said he had all kinds of experienced when all he did was leave horrible swirls in a body panel)... i also fired up the PC again with better but not good results.. I am going to keep practicing on our old 90 cadillac till I perfect the PC. ..



Anyways, I glazed with #7 and Waxed with #26 ... it now looks better than it ever has.. then i drove it 250 miles in the rain so its filthy but i'm sure the shine is still under there somewhere...



Moral of this story, dont learn on black... thanks for all your help..
 
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