Sell Me on FK 1000p

N

nonwelder

New member
I'm really looking for something durable to go on the Jetta. I use Meg's for the most part, both on my car and the side jobs I do. However, I've not found them to have an LSP that really sticks our in terms of durability. I like #20, but it's still not where I want it to be.



I thought about Opti Coat, but I'm not sold. So...maybe 1000p? I'm concerned about the ease of use. I like easy. So, sell me. What do you like about it? What don't you like? Why should I just jump and buy it?



Car will be properly polished in the spring and I want something good looking and durable. This is about the most cost effective option I have found, but I need a push to go for it...



Thanks.
 
You should really do opti coat, but if you go fk1000, USE A PC OR FLEX 3401 TO APPLY. This is the key:



Work it in like you were polishing, meaning go slow, let the clear absorb as much as it needs. 20 minutes later the product will come off as easy as anything you have ever tried.



You are welcome! :D:D:D:D:D
 
thomasdekany said:
You should really do opti coat, but if you go fk1000, USE A PC OR FLEX 3401 TO APPLY. This is the key:



Work it in like you were polishing, meaning go slow, let the clear absorb as much as it needs. 20 minutes later the product will come off as easy as anything you have ever tried.



You are welcome! :D:D:D:D:D
Click to expand...



I wanna try that.
 
I can't comment on the FK1000, however, just a few random thoughts. I tried the FK2180, and while it looks nice and protects nicely, it is not durable....meaning, it only lasts a couple on months. If you are looking for something durable, provides an amazing appearance (especially on metallics), goes on easy and comes off easier, look into the Autoglym Super Resin Polish/Extra Gloss Protection. I tried it for the first time last year, and as much as I would hate to admit that I have been neglecting my car slightly by only washing it (had not had much time to polish/wax my own due to being too busy at work and detailing others vehicles), I am very surprised to say that the SRP/EGP still beads like mad after...oh....maybe 8-9 months; and this is with a proper wash every other week. Just a thought....but I have found myself using this more and more.
 
Thomas...I really want to try OC 2.0, but I am rather intimidated. :) I am NEVER imtimidated by a product, but maybe with this being a permanent coating, it scares me.



If someone can calm my fears, I would LOVE to try it, as I have some "customers" that would probably benefit from the product as well. For me, it would make my life easier. With lots of driving/roadtrips, I have a feeling it would greatly reduce my cleaning time by making it much easier to remove all of that junk.
 
The look isn't what *everybody* will like on every paint. It definitely has a "signature look" that some might find, uhm...polarizing. That said, I didn't think I liked it on GM Carbon Metallic, but after a while it grew on me, and all the compliments sure didn't hurt! Still, it might not be the best black/red/etc. LSP.



Sure does shed dirt well, easy to wash without needing to "scrub".



I prefer to do FK1000P by hand (as opposed to machine), but that's just me.



I find it easy enough, but then I generally find most LSPs to be OK. It's Accumulator-proof, never had any problems *except* when I tried to layer it too quickly (more on that follows below).



It's not trim-friendly, but it's not terrible in that regard either, and I've even *used it* on trim, but you gotta go about that just right or it'll bite ya.



It *can* leave product residue behind, especially if you don't go thin thin thin on the application. Around PPF/emblems/etc. it can be a hassle in that regard, but again, nothing that's turned me off the stuff. Application technique can matter a lot (move "away from edges" rather than "towards or against them".



On the layering, while experts have said you can do the layers pretty quickly, I've experienced pseudo-holograms when I didn't wait long enough. And yeah...I've considered all the pertinent variables ;) So I wait until the next wash and do the next layer then. Four to six seems optimal, but two is plenty. For some reason a single application never lasts all that long for me, it's like it somehow *needs* that second one for some reason; the second one makes it last a lot longer than "twice as long as one".
 
I guess Acc covered most bases. I have used FK1000p on vw metalic, a light one though (wheat beige).



I say try it for a very simple reason. It is a classic. Product of the year on estimed forums etc.



Is it the easiest to apply and take off? In my experience not really (compared to OS for example). However, Thoma's approach definitely worths a try.

Is it looking good? It did on *my* colour, with great flake pop and the well documented 'second clear coat' effect evident.

Does it last long? It did for me 4+ months as a substrate for my wax.



Go ahead and try it. Added bonus its use on wheels.
 
Check out my first impressions of 1000p.



I really do think this is an excellent product, and you can't beat the price. Two coats provides very durable protection, at least that has been my experience. And it looks exceptional on my glacier blue CR-V. I applied 1000p to my black S2K this winter (on top of DG501). It looked good but not great on solid black (BWD is my preferred sealant on my S2K), but the protection is still going strong.





FK 1000p does have a signature look. You'll see what I mean after a couple of days. It looks like a layer of clearcoat has been added to the paint.



It's easy to apply and remove. No problems (except initially when I misted the applicator with FK 425).
 
I've tried and tried FK1000P and still just think it is an OK product. I wouldn't buy it again. It goes on and off easy enough, but I have actually had *dusting* with it, leaving white stuff down in crevices, and I have had it stain trim. One of my cars has trim around everything on the car and so it just isn't practical. Durability - strange here. With one coat, it lasts like 4 weeks or something for me. Deformed beading from the start. Something about a second coat really makes a difference with this product, way more so than any other wax I've used. Put a second coat on it and you will get nice tight beading with significantly improved durability. But, two coats of FK1000P still don't last any longer than one coat of collinite 476S, and I have to be careful of trim when applying. The "high temp" properties also have not created any more durability for me in the summer heat as compared to 476. Looks - eh. I think it leaves the car basically looking as-is, a just polished look. Kind of vanilla for me, but that could vary greatly depending on paint color and flek for other cars.



Positives - It is super cheap and I'm convinced one tin is a lifetime supply.
 
extrabolts- Interesting :think: I sure won't :argue with ya, hey experiences simply differ, but having switched from 476S to FK1000P on the Yukon XLD I used to have....well, as I said, interesting how our experiences differed :nixweiss



But I sure do agree with how that second coat makes a huge diff. Odd about your beading with just the one coat though...
 
My S2K and CR-V both have one coat of DG 501 topped with one coat of FK 1000p. I have not noticed deformed beading. What I do not know at this point is whether this combo, particularly on the CR-V (which gets a lot more mileage), will last as long as two coats of 1000p did last winter.
 
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