Seeking Advice: Sealer over Wax

A

acbent

New member
Hi All,



New to these forums. I just discovered this site literally hours after applying a coat of wax to my new car. Should have done research first of course. From my reading I gather that a sealant such as Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze can be applied and then a carnauba wax can be put over top. I expect that the other way around would be counter productive or worse, a bad move all together.

Any suggestions? Should I wait several weeks for the carnauba wax to wear off first, or find a wax remover then apply the sealant and then the wax? Or, can I actually put the sealant right over the wax?



Any and all viewpoints appreciated.



Thanks! Great site.



Regards,



Adam
 
1.) Welcome

2.) there is nothing wrong with using just a wax

3.) if you spend some time here reading, you will learn that the prep(wash/how you wash, clay, polish) is way more important then your LSP(wax/sealant)

4.) KSG will not bond over a wax, you will need KAIO also(if you did not but any yet IMO ther are better choices)
 
1) relax

2) never put a sealant on top of wax - there will almost always be a bonding problem.

3) you 'can' put a pure 'nuba wax (most have cleaners and can't layer well over anything) over a sealant but really should ask why.
 
Hi BigJim,



Thanks for the quick response. I'd certainly be open to your suggestions for other products. The reason I was inclined towards the sealer is the longevity. I do enjoy washing and waxing my car but must confess any vehicle that I own won't be able to expect more than about 3 waxes a year as I live in the Maritime Provinces and the weather sucks here for too much of the year. I gather that a sealant can last upwards of a year as opposed to the wax at a few months. I guess that's why I was leaning that way.

That said, by all means, please feel free to give me your completely unabridged version on paint finishes and protectant. I'd greatly appreciate it.



Regards,



Adam
 
acbent said:
From my reading I gather that a sealant such as Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze can be applied and then a carnauba wax can be put over top.

I expect that the other way around would be counter productive or worse, a bad move all together.
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If you want to use a sealant/wax combo, you want to apply the sealant first. 99% of sealants will not bond to carnauba wax.



acbent said:
Any suggestions? Should I wait several weeks for the carnauba wax to wear off first, or find a wax remover then apply the sealant and then the wax? Or, can I actually put the sealant right over the wax?
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Don't put the sealant over the wax. I agree with BigJim, just stick with the wax for now. Once you notice beading or slickness to start wearing off and you want to go to a sealant, remove the wax with a paint cleaner or All in One product. Before applying the sealant and or wax, give your car a good claying if you haven't done so recently (or ever). If you are not sure what claying is, look at the How To section of the site.





acbent said:
Any and all viewpoints appreciated.
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Just keep reading on here. For starters, read pretty much all of the How To articles. They will give you a good knowledge base so more of these threads make sense.
 
Im going to DISAGREE about using a sealant over a wax. Im such a pain but thats why i love post! :chuckle:



You can apply SOME sealants over waxes, these would include Opti-Seal and mini spray sealants such as a Meguiars UQD.



But traditional sealants such as KSG are a no-no.



Geoff
 
steelwind101 said:
Im going to DISAGREE about using a sealant over a wax. Im such a pain but thats why i love post! :chuckle:



You can apply SOME sealants over waxes, these would include Opti-Seal and mini spray sealants such as a Meguiars UQD.



But traditional sealants such as KSG are a no-no.



Geoff
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How do you know when a sealant is not bonding over a wax? Does the sealant just roll off the paint? J/J I just applied a sealant over a nuba within a week and its beading like a champ.
 
Hi Gents,



Thanks for the responses and useful information. I posted a reply earlier and it said it had to be reviewed by a moderator or something. It hasn't showed up yet.



Thanks.



Adam
 
Legacy99 said:
How do you know when a sealant is not bonding over a wax? Does the sealant just roll off the paint? J/J I just applied a sealant over a nuba within a week and its beading like a champ.
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Hi!



Yup you probably got some good bonding. Often one of two things happen, you get a slight haze finish where full bonding hasnt taken place and the sealant just sits there partially clinging to surface.



Proper bonding doesnt take place the sealant wears off very quickly.



It doesnt bond at all, all of the sealant flashes and is wiped off instead of just the excess.



But i have used, and recommended on here and other places (with compliments) that you can apply OptiSeal over a low durability wax such as Souveran. It will hardly change the looks of the wax but it will provide beading and protection for 3.5-3 months.



Geoff
 
Good Day,



I happened to be in a local hardware store and picked up a bottle of Nu Finish to give it a try. Some of you detailing gurus are probably cringing right now! LOL. Anyway, I tried it on a small 'out of the way place' place on the car. It's hard to tell how it's working but the water beads very nicely, but of course that could be due to the wax I recently put on. Just as my reading indicated, the finish was not quite as deep and glossy as the wax - it was slightly flatter looking with not as much depth - but it did bead up nicely. I'm going to try putting another coat of carnuba over that and see if I can get that deep gloss back. What it boils down to basically is that about 6 months out of the year here we can't wax cars - outdoors that is and I don't have access to a garage unfortunately. I'm looking for a product or combination of products that will offer the best and longest lasting paint protection against salt, slush and sand - things we have plenty of in the Maritime Provinces.

This vehicle isn't much - it's just a 2008 Hyundai Accent GL Sport, but I want to keep it in tip top shape. I'm a firm believer in Rust Check as I've been doing it to my cars for the past 15 years or so. I'm confident in Rust Checks ability to do its job, just need the ultimate combination of paint protection - one that can stand up to repeated washings as I take my car to the spray bay sometimes a couple times a week in the winter.

In fact, I'd even be happy with a product that would work more on the protection side in lieu of the glossy, shiny look if such a product existed. I can have my deep liquid, gloss shine in the summer.

Also, I know that it is recommended to remove your alloy wheels in the winter in favor of steel wheels and winter tires. The alloy wheels I have are painted and I suspect clear coated. I'm wondering if there is any product that could fully protect them against oxidation in this harsh environment or if I ought to actually get steel wheels and tuck the alloy ones away for the winter.

I appreciate the advice so far guys, but welcome more if you have any to give.



Thanks,



Adam
 
acbent said:
..............about 6 months out of the year here we can't wax cars - outdoors that is and I don't have access to a garage unfortunately. I'm looking for a product or combination of products that will offer the best and longest lasting paint protection against salt, slush and sand - things we have plenty of in the Maritime Provinces...............
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I would go with Collinite 476 or 885 paste wax. The following place offers free shipping:



Collinite waxes from MacTec | car waxes, boat wax, and detailing supplies



The 476 and 885 are the exact same wax, just in different containers. Put on at least 2 coats and you'll have a decent chance of making it almost 6 months. In your situation I might be inclined to layer a few coats of sealant as a base before applying the Collinite. As far as sealants go it's hard to beat the Zaino (Z-5 or Z-2) durability or one of the new WOWA sealants like UPGP:



Ultima Paint Care Sampler Kit



It's hard to beat the sampler price of $40 for the above.



For best results on whatever you use clay and polish (if needed) before application. A good AIO like Z-AIO or KAIO would clean things up nicely for you and leave a good base.
 
I just bought a new toyota and washed it and waxed it w/ P21S carnuba-wax.

I was not planning on doing any thing else but waxing the car from time to time. After reading a fews post I decided to buy some Klasse Gloss Sealant Glaze from Autopia.

My question is what if I clay bar the car, would that remove the wax? Then I could apply the Klasse? Is there an easier way to remove the wax? Other than wait 2-3 months? Any input would be appreciated.
 
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