Scratch removal woes - are we too demanding?

T

t0pher

New member
So I bought a brand new 2005 G35X in a metallic dark grey. At delivery, it had two very minor scratches in the hood (only in clear, not down to the color) and one deeper on the fender (into the color.) Dealer agreed they would cover repairing them. This was the last one in regional inventory in the color I wanted and the deal on the car was very good, so I chose to take it and have them fix it.



Anyway, it goes to a body shop, who proceeds to sand and polish the hood scratches out and re-paint the fender. It comes back with part of the scratches still visible (they did not polish low enough on the hood,) minor swirls from polishing, and the fender has 4 small boogers in the clear coat. The new paint also looks a bit more orange-peely than the door.



I feel like this is always the case. I feel like I am the only one that can see the scratches and the dust. How can a reputable shop let this kind of work out of their shop? I just love cars - but this is their job! Can't they see the boogers and swirl marks?



Now - I need your advice: Should I let them continue to polish the hood out or should I demand new clearcoat? I am worried about final thickness after sanding it down so much. Also, can new clearcoat be applied over factory paint?



On the fender, how are they going to get to boogers out? Sand and polish? Again, how much of the protective clear are they taking off and should I be worried about having thin spots?



Thanks for your advice! Help me through my pain!



//Topher
 
t0pher- Welcome to Autopia!



Getting repairs done right is tough...my S8 never did get fixed perfectly after the deer incident and after four tries I decided to live with it :rolleyes: The shop I patronize is highly regarded and they really do try to satisfy me...but they still mess up.



The level of orangepeel should match the texture on the rest of the car. Period. That's something you can fairly demand.



Reclearing a panel of factory paint isn't normally done and I wouldn't advise it.



The imperfections in the repaint might be fixable and they can blend in new repairs with what they've already done if they have to (if they take off a lot of clear). Yeah, they'll probably have to sand them out. Hope they do better with their sanding scratches than they did on the other ones.



I wouldn't expect them to get the scratches out, that's not something paint/body shops generally do very well. It's always a risk to remove such marring since, as you're aware, it involves taking off clear.



The real lesson here is that if you're after a basically perfect new car, only accept one that doesn't have flaws. I've turned down hard-to-find models before, and I was glad I waited until I got the right one (and of course I then hit a deer with it anyhow :o ).
 
I'll agree with Accumulator on this one. I've been spending each weekend taking out scratches that the bodyshop at the dealership but in both on the panels they painted and everywhere else since getting the car back a few weeks ago.



Autobody and paint techs are more focused on what they do (repairing and painting panels) than getting each and every finish showroom perfect.



Also most shop managers don't want the final finish to take anymore time than neccessary to get that car out of the bay. Time is money so they are more concerned with getting as many cars done in a day at maybe 90% than getting less out at 100%.



Find a good custom paint shop though and all that changes. Esp ones that work on show cars. But you'll pay alot more for the work.
 
I hear you on the fact that I should not have taken this one. I needed the car and got impatient. Figured the promise of repair was enough. Lesson learned and now I'm dealing with it.



Well, it's going back next week. They are going to do it until it is right or the dealership gets me a new car. The dealer's paying for it so it's on them.



The peel on the fender is a bit more than the door. But they have to take the boogers out of the fender anyway so they can polish that all day I guess.



As for the hood - I'm torn...repaint or finish sanding/polishing the scratch out. What do you think? Will the clear hold up or be too thin?



Finally, any amazing detailers in the Philadelphia, PA area that I can turn to for a final polish to really get the inevetible swirls out? PMs would be welcome.



Thanks in advance,



//Topher
 
Clear Coat can be applied over properly prepped OEM paint.



The only way to tell if the Clear Coat is too thin is with a paint meter (they range anywhere from 300 to 800 dollars USD). Typically you want about 7 mils total.



Swirls will come out if handled properly. Some may take a rotary polisher and a medium cut pad but they will come out. That will need to be followed by another session with just a polishing pad to remove the swirls you induced taking out the original marring.



It's a process, you start with the proper pad/polish compound to get the job done, but if that is more than a polishing pad then you'll need to "step" back down through the "cut's" of pads to smooth everything out.



That's where I think bodyshops get it wrong. They start out with a wool pad and a compound after wetsanding but never go back over the finish with anything other than one foam pad and that's a maybe. If they wetstanded with say starting with 1200 and ended with 2000 or 2500 they would have less to buff out.



Bottom line is this, you paid for a brand new car with no defects. If they repair the defects that means to the condition that the factory shipped it not to their liking.



Should they be unwilling or unable to do so you have the option of asking the sales manager either reimburst you or deduct from the cost of the vehicle the costs to have the repair done somewhere else.



They are going to hope you just go away, it's up to you how hard you stick to your guns.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top