ScottHD ceramic coating test 2 year update thoughts?

If I put a real durable coating on a car, I`d expect it to hold up as a stand alone. Sure anyone can claim 5 or 7 years durability with yearly boosters and SIO2 washes.
 
It tells me what to use on my `73 Nova sitting on jackstands in my backyard if I lived in Texas (I believe that`s where he is located). Probably doesn`t tell me what would work best on my `73 Nova sitting on jackstands in my backyard in Buffalo, NY though.
You`re in Buffalo? Where about`s? I`m in Amherst right across from the Northtown Toyota dealership
 
Pretty sure I wouldn`t want to go 5~7 years on a coating even if they did last that long. Any vehicle at that point would be in need of a good polishing.

However, I am getting 2~3 years easily without boosters, toppers, or special soaps. Makes it really easy to set up a rotation where I don`t have to do more than one family car a year, not to mention the easy of cleaning the rest of the time.
 
If I put a real durable coating on a car, I`d expect it to hold up as a stand alone. Sure anyone can claim 5 or 7 years durability with yearly boosters and SIO2 washes.

But you will notice when the coating fails regardless of toppers. By adding toppers you are not adding same kind of protection and will see the failure.

The topper is mainly to protect the coating from what it not does well. Adds to the looks (gloss , depth) too.

People always talk about masking the coating..... no matter what I topped with I got CQUK3 beading from my car.


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But you will notice when the coating fails regardless of toppers. By adding toppers you are not adding same kind of protection and will see the failure.

The topper is mainly to protect the coating from what it not does well. Adds to the looks (gloss , depth) too.

People always talk about masking the coating..... no matter what I topped with I got CQUK3 beading from my car.


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I know I am generalising but the more I test, the more I find that toppers just struggle to bond to the underlying coating. At least that has repeatedly been my experience using coatings from Gtechniq, Gyeon and CarPro which have all had distinctive water behaviour.

My latest dabbling was using NV`s boost as a QD over CarPro SiC - left to cure for 4 hours and hosed down the panel, clear to see that particular section was down on hydrophobics, which makes sense as it isn`t as hydrophobic as the underlying SiC. One wash later - I noticed the snow foam `clung` to that area where I had applied Boost and when I rinsed the SiC beading had returned, foamed it and there was no `cling`... just to note that I have had the same experience with Cosmic/High Gloss. With Boost, I find that acceptable but not for products of the type and price bracket as Cosmic/HG. Durability can be nearly doubled when applying them to bare paint - I used to blame my wash chemicals for stripping LSPs, in reality I strongly believe that they struggle to adhere to the extent that they`ll last next to no time at all.

Toppers are really only `required` where you have an ageing coating, or you`ve chosen a coating that significantly lacks characteristics the topper brings. Of course topping has that fun factor which many crave, IMO though if you choose a top top coating applying a topper can do nothing but detract from it.
 
I know I am generalising but the more I test, the more I find that toppers just struggle to bond to the underlying coating. At least that has repeatedly been my experience using coatings from Gtechniq, Gyeon and CarPro which have all had distinctive water behaviour.

My latest dabbling was using NV`s boost as a QD over CarPro SiC - left to cure for 4 hours and hosed down the panel, clear to see that particular section was down on hydrophobics, which makes sense as it isn`t as hydrophobic as the underlying SiC. One wash later - I noticed the snow foam `clung` to that area where I had applied Boost and when I rinsed the SiC beading had returned, foamed it and there was no `cling`... just to note that I have had the same experience with Cosmic/High Gloss. With Boost, I find that acceptable but not for products of the type and price bracket as Cosmic/HG. Durability can be nearly doubled when applying them to bare paint - I used to blame my wash chemicals for stripping LSPs, in reality I strongly believe that they struggle to adhere to the extent that they`ll last next to no time at all.

Toppers are really only `required` where you have an ageing coating, or you`ve chosen a coating that significantly lacks characteristics the topper brings. Of course topping has that fun factor which many crave, IMO though if you choose a top top coating applying a topper can do nothing but detract from it.

You overthink this stuff man. But so do i. :)

I`m very happy with Nv EVO though. I applied it outside on my roof and doors its really nice and dark. Beads like crazy. I`d be happy if it lasts a year.

I have so extra time now maybe i will finish the bonnet. I done a quick polish with gyeon primer and topped with high gloss the next day over a month ago. Still solid looking and great beads.
 
I know I am generalising but the more I test, the more I find that toppers just struggle to bond to the underlying coating. At least that has repeatedly been my experience using coatings from Gtechniq, Gyeon and CarPro which have all had distinctive water behaviour.

My latest dabbling was using NV`s boost as a QD over CarPro SiC - left to cure for 4 hours and hosed down the panel, clear to see that particular section was down on hydrophobics, which makes sense as it isn`t as hydrophobic as the underlying SiC. One wash later - I noticed the snow foam `clung` to that area where I had applied Boost and when I rinsed the SiC beading had returned, foamed it and there was no `cling`... just to note that I have had the same experience with Cosmic/High Gloss. With Boost, I find that acceptable but not for products of the type and price bracket as Cosmic/HG. Durability can be nearly doubled when applying them to bare paint - I used to blame my wash chemicals for stripping LSPs, in reality I strongly believe that they struggle to adhere to the extent that they`ll last next to no time at all.

Toppers are really only `required` where you have an ageing coating, or you`ve chosen a coating that significantly lacks characteristics the topper brings. Of course topping has that fun factor which many crave, IMO though if you choose a top top coating applying a topper can do nothing but detract from it.

Boost was designed to wash off at the next wash. Collect the contamination and wash off.


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Boost was designed to wash off at the next wash. Collect the contamination and wash off.


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Boost was a bad example because I know that`s what it`s designed to do and it`s exactly why I bought it, but it doesn`t do that on my wife`s car which is partly protected. I`ve found boost to last up to 4 weeks on hers applied the exact same way.

Had the same experience with Cosmic, high gloss, Kk overcoat which last much much better on a non coated car. Those products are not marketed to wash off like boost.

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Actually I`m in NE Ohio, kinda Cleveland. I sometimes use Buffalo as a similar climate example, a city without the negative connotations of the Cleveland Browns and a river that caught fire numerous times.

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/hist...ozen-times-no-one-cared-until-1969-180972444/

My wife`s cousin is in the similar area as you, outside Cleveland. We took his son to Bills game 5-6 years ago. He made the comment that the Bills and Browns both had the same problem. Neither was good at scoring touchdowns. We had a good laugh out of that.

Buffalo has it`s own negative connotations. But you`re right. Our water has never caught fire.
 
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