Sanded Jetta 4Fender...

Ryan

New member
This week I had some time and found a fender at the local VW Body Shop. It is a good panel to learn how to maneuver around the corners. My reason for doing this was not how to better handle the buffer but, how to sand/detail the orange peeal out of the finish. The panel was in decent conditions and had a few major "wounds".

The easy part was sanding and took about 20 minutes. It looked like this:

4Fender2.jpg




The purpose of this excercise was to understand what it takes to level the paint to an orange peel free finish. Man, was I ever in for a surprise in what it actually takes to attain a perfect, glass-like finish.

To just begin to bring the shine back I started with a synthetic wool bonnet and some Hi-Temp 1000 leveler. I felt comfortable after about 2 applications. I was wrong about that. As a matter of fact, it took another 3 applications with the wool bonnet and leveler plus, another application of another synthetic compound and a foam cutting pad to remove the wool cutting pads extreme marring. Once the compounding was complete I moved on to IP polish and green pads, followed by a thick coat of glaze and Collinite wax.



4Fender1.jpg




4Fender3.jpg




The results are obvious. My problem is that the amount of polishing it took to muscle the swirls out of the finish is excessive. I started out with almost 7 mm of film build and ended up with between 4-5 mm. I burned right through 2-3 mm of clear coat! :scared



I mean, is it possible to remove orange peel with a machine rather than sanding? I have the idea that it may ultimately be safer and possibly more efficient if the process is done entirely with a foam cutting pad and a good compound. This way deep tracers (sanding marks) are not unecessarily introduced into the finish that need to be muscled out.



Please share any tricks. I'd like to use them for a dark green Passat hood waiting at VW.
 
I have very little knowlege of this subject but have recently been doing some wetsanding on an `87 truck. No clearcoat. I worked with 2000 grit sandpaper only. I suspect it is better to spend more time sanding with a finer grit rather than get more aggressive. After sanding to a uniform dullness, I buffed with a 100% wool 3M compounding pad at 1400 rpm with Meguiar`s Compound power Cleaner. It cleared it up immediately to a nice gloss. I followed with DACP on the PC set at 5 with a yellow Lake Country cutting pad. Improved the gloss to a point it was hard to believe it could get any better. followed with a white Lake Country polishing pad set at 5 using 3M Perfect It III Machine Glaze. It got better! Absolutely no sanding marks or swirls.
 
Ryan, what grit paper did you use? Also, this might be a dumb question but how do you know how thick your clearcoat is and how much was removed?? Just curious. Thanks.
 
I used 2000 grit Nikken and a MarHyde paint thickness gauge. Anything that was removed was definitely clear.
 
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