Same pads for PC and rotary?

C

CRXSi90

New member
I'm thinking about jumping straight into the rotary (but not on good cars + paint):shocked with this rotary. Cost is a concern for me, and if I master this, I'll be set for pretty much anything in the future. My car is pretty badly swirled with buffer marks and wet sanding scratches, so I'd be pretty safe on mine; it doesn't have a clear coat on most parts. I'm also hoping for a summer job washing cars at a dealership, and I could use this on their used, chalky cars.

If you have any comments on this, please say so.



My main question at this point is can you use the same pads on a rotary as a orbital? This is advertised as a 6" machine, which is the same as PCs and other quality orbitals. The picture of the Craftsman one has a elastic bonnet thing, not a velcro pad. Is this the same as PCs without the velcro backing plate? Also, do you people think I could convert this into a velcro one by sticking and possibly stitching a velcro panel thing on the backing plate?



Thanks for the help!
 
wow, thanks for the link...I sure like that better than the one I spotted. Could you tell me a little about your backing plate setup, please? Also, just to confirm, your 6" (velcro-backed?) PC pads fit on this 7" rotary?
 
Someone suggested getting a panel from a junk yard to practice on. Sounded like a good idea, so I looked up junkyards. The only one in my area was the local Hyndai Dealership. I nearly pmplol, when I saw that in the Yellow Pages :rofl
 
I know what you are saying, but about half the cars on the lot have been sitting there for a few years, and a lot of them couldn't be hurt much by having a rotary go after them. Besides, what do you think the average person would want to buy, a chalky, dull vehicle that obviously has been sitting and has NO wax protection, or something that is shiny, but may or may not have evidence that a beginner rotaryist has worked on it? I only keep track of the cars I half like on the lot, but there was a white CRX that sat there since I can remember, at least 2 or 3 years, maybe more. It is still sitting there today. Also, an Accord which has been there the last two or three years and is sitting there today. A small investment of a few of these old, chalky cars could yield large returns for them because they wouldn't have to stick their always-busy autobody guy on any rotary project. He does use a rotary, and I would gladly learn from him and practice on spare body pannels (after all, it is a body shop).



That was my view atleast.



When you end up at dealerships, what are you looking at...new pretty stuff or old ugly stuff? I guess I'm the exception...I look at the old stuff and see the possibility!



If there is something that is bad and can't be made worse, you might as well try and make it better.
 
Firstly, the Sears polisher has a 1/2" X 20 Spindle which is smaller than the aftermarket 5/8 universal backing plates(3M or Meguiar's).



http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/...us_aad_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html



As such, you will have a tough time finding a backing plate that will work. You also need a rotary with a variable speed, and trigger control. Most compounds are worked at @1800 rpm and polishes @ 1200-1500 rpm.



The rotary is a difficult tool to use, not to mention becoming proficient with its use. If you decide to try it, go to a salvage yard and get an old hood to practice on. Otherwise, get a PC which is the safest yet does an excellent job!!



** I just read your post just before this one. What harm could a rotary do? It could destroy the paint and fairly quickly I might add!! It can burn through the paint in a matter of seconds!!



Buffer swirls are a disgrace and gives all of the professional detailers a bad rep. Just using a rotary in a haphazrd manner is foolhardy.



If you want a summer job, why not apprentice at a detailing shop? Are you in college?
 
I understand that rotarys aren't easy, but I'm up for the challange. I don't consider myself wreckless, and I am careful, so I think I'm a good candidate for learning rotary!



In regard to "what harm could be done?", there isn't much that would decrease the value more than rust and chalky paint.



To my understanding, following a few basic rules while using a rotary can make or break the experience. Those that I assume are top on the list are 1. keeping the pad flat 2. keeping the pad clean 3. keeping the pad moving

Before I dive in, I'll give the rotary sticky another look, too.



You are absolutely right about buffer swirls disgracing pro-detailers. Last fall, when my car's suspension was getting worked over, the owner of the shop parked my car next to his brake lathe. The car was covered with metal dust, which rusted to the paint when he took it outside. He claimed full responsibility for the problem and sent the car off to a local "autobody shop where he sends a lot of his work". I get the car back; the paint is in realitivly smooth condition. Later, I found out that all the marks left were filled with glaze. They had wetsanded the car to get the metal off, but it seems like it probably wasn't all of it. Next they took their rotary which picked up the remaining metal and dragged it around the paint. To this day, there are some major scratches, whether their from wetsanding or dragging metal around the paint, and abundant buffer swirls!



Now, I didn't think it took a rocket scientist to run a rotary well, just someone who isn't haphazardous, foolhardy, and wreckless.



I'm currently ending my sophomore year of high school. In my area, there aren't many detailing shops, and last summer, the owner of this particular dealership presented the posibility of working there this summer. The atmosphere would be good because I'm already aquainted with most of the people around there (my parents have brought their vehicles there for my entire life). There is also the possibility that I can help them with the knowledge I have learned on Autopia. :) I would bet that most times, the workers they get aren't as educated on this topic as me (although it wouldn't take a whole lot) and are less careful than me.



I could get a job as an apprentice to a detailing shop, but to be put simply, I want to do this! My working there isn't set in stone and the knots aren't tied yet.



One of the largest reasons I want to use a rotary is to fix the marks the geniuses at that one shop put in my car.



Do you think I could learn to use a rotary? Would it be worth my while? It seems there are so few that can use them well.
 
I am sure you are more than able to use the rotary. But it will take years to master them. I have used rotaries for over 12 years and I still have not mastered them to the degree that I want. It is not a "jump into using" kind of tool. It may not be rocket science, but there is a lot that can only be learnt through lots of practice.



If you are truly serious, then go for it!! But, buy a decent one so that you get the most from the experience. A cheapy may cause you more grief than it is worth. Yes they are expensive, but if you buy a good one, they will last for years and years! A cheapy will not!



Welcome to the Rotary club!
 
Thanks for the reply. I doubt I'll be doing much detailing for other people in 12 years, but maybe if I give it a shot every day this summer, I might gain some knowledge. I atleast want to try it at some point. My already-swirled car will certainly be my first victim if I can't find something worse to practice on.



I suppose I could use the rotary of the bodyman where I plan to work. I would think it is a high quality one.



What is your opinion on the one posted by "jimamary"? It seems like a good starting point for me, and there isn't as big of a loss if I decide I can't do it.



Thanks again,

Kev
 
I can not tell too much about that buffer. It is cheap but I still think that you would be better off using the body man's buffer to learn on. Then save your money and buy either the Makita 9227C or the DeWalt DW849.



I am not a Pro Detailer though there are many on here that are. I suggest you read posts from: Mike Phillips, Anthony O., Intel, Showroom Lincoln, and others to learn the most that you can about the rotary.



Good Luck!!
 
Get a 6 inch velcro backing plate for the rotary and a 6" plate for the PC. I've been using the 7.5 " Lake COuntry VC pads on both rotary and PC D.A. and they work very well (got them from CMA). It is nice only having to keep one size pad for both tools.
 
2hotford said:
Oops! Sorry Natty, I should have listed you as one of the Pro's!!!



Sorry Bud!!!



Tim
Click to expand...



LOL, no prob Tim...quite understandable. I don't consider myself to be anywhere near the leaugue the Autopia pros are in so would never dream of being mentioned in the same list. Comparitvely speaking I'm merely an obssesed enthusiast aspiring to do professional quality work and make a few extra $$ in the process.



Just wanted to chime in to let him know about the 7.5 " VC pads and how, in my limited experience they work well with both PC D.A. and rotary.
 
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