Safe to level CC on new Toyotas ?

Quote :

Are you sure you even have BC/CC paint? Being a '94 it's possible it's single stage paint.





Absolutely sure that the paint is CC since my pads are always clean . The truck is a dark green color and it would show inmediately . I have done many old cars with single stage paints and is no brainer to know when they are Single stage .



Cheers , Jean Paul
 
My metallic black Southern California driven '04 BMW 330i is kind of a test of "how long will low clear last" but not because I removed the clear (some previous idiot did.) Factory paint levels were around 140 microns new and most of my horizontal surfaces are at 90 microns and around 100 on the verticals. I'm doing what I can, no polishing and I use Optimum Car Wax monthly. So far in 1 1/2 years of owning the car I haven't noticed any deterioration (the hood has always been dull.)
 
I'd just like to see 1st hand what OEM paint looks like when it fails from being too thin. There's alot of theories & opinions about it, but nothing documented thus far. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
 
My 2009 Dodge Ram has the worst OP of any car I have owned. It is so bad that most reflections are washed out.



My plan is to wait until spring, and polish the paint. The OP is something I will have to ignore.
 
Kalon said:
in short layman's terms...what IS orange peel? any example pics?
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look at a reflection in your paint - if it's a factory job, chances are it won't be perfectly clear. Instead, you'll see the reflection, but also "pockmarks", like on the surface of an orange.



e.g., like this



051.jpg




Notice how the image isn't perfectly clear.
 
Just so you guys don't think I am nuts, there are some OEM clearcoats that you can wetsand the orange peel out and buff out, where I work (#1 OEM Motorcycle co) is one. The difference is of course we put a lot more clear on.





Yea I have considered respraying, if I get tim off work I may do that. Most of my hand spraying experience on cars is with SS, but I think I can pull it off.



And the orange peel, it is bad Toyota Yaris is known for some of the worst paint in the industry. I want to try prep,polish,tec with my PC first to see if I can get something I can live with.
 
Also reading some of the threads I can provide some insight, I used to work as a paint chemist for BASF who supplied GM at the time. White BC is high high solids full of TiO2, very hard to apray smooth in a production invironment. The way we deal with it at where I work is several light coats then a lot of clear.



I have always heard the rumor that GM specs some OP to hide dirt and some customers mistakenly think it means more paint=better. Where I work we shoot for the least orange peel possible.



Also it is absolutely true that the ciba UV protectants in the clear are the most expensive portion of any clear, ironically it is also the lowest % by weight in any formulation. This is why you never buy cheap after market clear they cut back there first. Lower mils does equal less sun protection. Test are run at 1.0 mils in florida exposure at most OEMs, some want 1.5 mils, one company 3 mils. Some want no yellowing or oxidation in 5 years, others 7 and so on. You never know. But in every case same clear more thickness = better protection.



And don't think every car makes it out of the assembly plant with a 1 mil of clear over the whole vehicle, mistakes happen alot. You may be lucky and have 3 mils on the hood, or the operator may have been asleep when your car went by and missed two passes leaving 1 mil, inspectors never check the roof.



Thats why I always keep my car out of the summer sun and am considering wet-sanding and clearcoating. But then again its just a Yaris (that I want to drive for 20 years.)
 
dlamerton said:
How bad is the orange peel. Most new cars have it to some extend, perhaps you should consider respraying it?
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The orange peel on the verticles is the worst I have ever seen on a factory paint job.
 
regal said:
Also reading some of the threads I can provide some insight, I used to work as a paint chemist for BASF who supplied GM at the time. White BC is high high solids full of TiO2, very hard to apray smooth in a production invironment. The way we deal with it at where I work is several light coats then a lot of clear.



I have always heard the rumor that GM specs some OP to hide dirt and some customers mistakenly think it means more paint=better. Where I work we shoot for the least orange peel possible.



Also it is absolutely true that the ciba UV protectants in the clear are the most expensive portion of any clear, ironically it is also the lowest % by weight in any formulation. This is why you never buy cheap after market clear they cut back there first. Lower mils does equal less sun protection. Test are run at 1.0 mils in florida exposure at most OEMs, some want 1.5 mils, one company 3 mils. Some want no yellowing or oxidation in 5 years, others 7 and so on. You never know. But in every case same clear more thickness = better protection.



And don't think every car makes it out of the assembly plant with a 1 mil of clear over the whole vehicle, mistakes happen alot. You may be lucky and have 3 mils on the hood, or the operator may have been asleep when your car went by and missed two passes leaving 1 mil, inspectors never check the roof.



Thats why I always keep my car out of the summer sun and am considering wet-sanding and clearcoating. But then again its just a Yaris (that I want to drive for 20 years.)
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My fiancee's '05 Acura RL comes back from the shop today(hail damage). It recieved a full repaint using BASF and the high solids clear. Her paint was very smooth from the factory and when I stopped in and looked at it yesterday it had a lot more orange peel (not real happy about it either). I'm going to be wet sanding it myself, as I didn't want them doing it, but I got the bumper covers, side moldings, and rockers painted out of the deal so I don't mind. ;)



I'll post pics tonight if I can. It will be a few weeks before I can do the sanding though...which sucks becasue it's going to be harder. :(
 
Take it back to the shop and demand a wetsand + reclear. Its the spray-man not the product 99% of the time.
 
regal said:
Take it back to the shop and demand a wetsand + reclear. Its the spray-man not the product 99% of the time.
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I had them add an extra coat for me so I can't ***** too much. I will let them know I'm unhappy with the texture though. My father works there but they have dedicated painters and he only does heavy collision now.



I think there are a lot of variables that add to the orange peel but I'd don't think 99% is the painter. A lot of other factors like the quality of gun, mixing, temp, and of course thickness of the coats...which would be the painter I guess. This is one of the elite shops in the Twin Cities area, so their painter is definitely good.
 
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