Rv detailing

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columbus6cyl

New member
i am getting ready to do an exterior on a 32 ft winn the guy says it has alot of oxidation and has been in storage for like 2 yrs on it ill be using My Makita to do the buffing what products would work good and pads to ?open up for comments
 
someone once told me to stay away from the makita/rotary on fiberglass....



but use megs 49 boat line, and a burgandy pad....it will cut in no time flat!!!
 
toyotaguy said:
someone once told me to stay away from the makita/rotary on fiberglass....



but use megs 49 boat line, and a burgandy pad....it will cut in no time flat!!!
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I guess I dont understand this? Why does it matter what brand rotary he has?
 
someone told me that I should not use a rotary on a fiberglass RV, that a PC would be better = less chance to burn and ruin it....its not the rotary brand....
 
Michael,



When you deal with older fiberglass that has a lot of oxidation, don't be surprised to find out that the chalky faded dullness will actually begin to reappear within a few weeks and possibly even a few days. Sure you may be able to get the finish to look good, however in most cases it will not last very long before the uv rays of the sun start the oxidation process all over again.



You would be smart to walk away from any fiberglass work when the surface is aged and contains heavy oxidation. That goes for fiberglass boats and fiberglass RV's.
 
toyotaguy said:
someone told me that I should not use a rotary on a fiberglass RV, that a PC would be better = less chance to burn and ruin it....its not the rotary brand....
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Ok, but your definatly going to want to use a rotary still..
 
mirrorfinishman said:
Michael,







You would be smart to walk away from any fiberglass work when the surface is aged and contains heavy oxidation. That goes for fiberglass boats and fiberglass RV's.
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What happened to determining the customer's need and filling it? If a customer wants their aged and heavy oxidized boat or RV detailed and is explained the potential for failure or short term breakdown why walk away? What if they want it cleaned up to sell and any shine is better than none. It kinda sounds like your leaving money on the table and sending false signals to people here that are trying to learn better processes.



There are several products on the market that are designed exactly for this type of application and can be used sucessfully.



This is what I would try:

AM Power Cut Plus used with a yellow sponge brick by hand. It will clean the dead finish and get it ready for polish.

AM GS-1 with a wool cutting pad. It has lots of oil and a very nice amount of cut.

AM BC-2 with a yellow foam light cutting/heavy polishing pad.

Paint Sealant of choice.
 
columbus6cyl said:
Thanks David Any otc stuff i may be able to get that is good
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Sorry - I'm not real familiar with the OTC stuff. PM me if you need further suggestions. I'd be glad to help.
 
You should rethink meguiars 49# with the Burgundy pad that would be your last option as you could end up with excessive swirl marks. I alway start out with the least aggressive and work up from there try meguiars flagship first.

good luck
 
just stating what someone else told me on this forumn....I had great results from #66 and a few (10) orange pads on a 37', then sealed up with 21!!!
 
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