Rust specks on paint

K

Krodad

New member
I just did my first hand wash of the "spring" on my white truck...also used the new foam gun...WOW I like that sucker!

Once the layer of road grime was gone, I noticed, for the first time ever, what looked like rust spots on the paint. This is not rust on the body, but just like what you might find if someone was doing some grinding near the vehicle and shot the paint with the steel sparks. Thing is, I did not do anything like this, and they were ALL OVER the entire lower 1/3 of the truck. This is a brand new truck and I went ape doodoo over this discovery.

What could possibly cause this, and do you think clay would be able to remove? I was able to get most of it with a lot of elbow grease and a fingernail, but there is still some left.

I will be using the brand new, never opened PC soon as I get the PB products in and the edge2000 pads. I was trying to avoid forking out what seems like a lot of dough for clay (I know, I bought the PC so what am I whining about?) but I'll get some if it's going to take me to the next level.
 
I think it is safe to say its just some rail dust in the paint. claying the vehicle should remove these specs. make sure to remove them prior to buffing.

Greg
 
Clay might do the trick but a more permanent fix would be a 3 step decontamination wash such as Valugard's ( Autoint) ABC system or the similar one from Finish Kare.
 
Bill D said:
Clay might do the trick but a more permanent fix would be a 3 step decontamination wash such as Valugard's ( Autoint) ABC system or the similar one from Finish Kare.
Click to expand...

Ditto, a fallout wash will work better then the clay in this matter. Automagic makes a good one. You can also go to your local chemicle supplier and talk to him about mixing something up.

Many dealerships wash every car before its delivered to the customer with a fallout wash.
 
My daughter had the exact spots on her 2002 Dodge Neon. I used an entire ClayBar and then followed up with a polish and sealant,so far so good..
 
Jngrbrdman said:
I don't know that I'd call anything a 'permanent' fix. No matter what you use the spots are going to come back. And while an ABC process would work as well, for a beginner detailer I would say a clay bar is probably a better suggestion.

edit: Here is a thread on how to use clay to remove the dots.
Click to expand...


I would have to agree with you. I've been detailing for a couple of years now and just did an ABC wash last weekend. If wasn't that difficult or anything, but if you don't know what you're doing, it could be very dangerous to your finish. I would suggest that you just stick with the clay now.
 
Thanks for all the feedback!!

My truck is a white Toyota Tundra, and it has no clearcoat. Don't know why for sure, must be an issue of clarity or something.

Would this change the opinion on using the decontamination system from Finish Kare? I kind of like the idea, though the claims they make about the different steps making the specks "pop" out at one point seem a little far fetched.

I would assume one of the biggest concerns is to get all these specks out of there before I start using the PC and turning it into a swirl machine(?)
 
The rust spots are just signs of metal in the paint. They stain the paint and that is how you typically see it. It isn't always metal that causes the need for clay though. Anyway, polishing before you get those out would basically just knock the top off the contamination. It would be like knocking the top off a sliver in your finger. The sliver is still going to fester and cause problems even though you can't feel it on the surface. What those acid baths do is disolve deeper into the paint than what clay might be able to do. Depending on how new your 'new' truck is, there may be benefit in doing a thorough job with an acid bath type product. Typically clay will do the job just fine though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top