Yeah I haven't done anything more than push on it with my finger. It's weird because they started on the outside between the fill door and the fender lip and grew from a pinhead size to nickel size in a matter of weeks. There was no defects visible that would have allowed rust unless it was something inside the fill area that I couldn't see.
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Rust: potency indoor vs outdoor in salted-winters?
- Thread starter BMWWW
- Start date
Ron, thanks for so informative posts!
What would you recommend for a new Toyota 4Runner SUV, especially for a frame? I assume it has some factory 'rust protection' but within 10 month of ownership I can see some surface oxidation on welded frame joints so it makes me worried. Btw, 4runner is garage kept (somewhat heated) and is driven in Pittsburgh area.
What would you recommend for a new Toyota 4Runner SUV, especially for a frame? I assume it has some factory 'rust protection' but within 10 month of ownership I can see some surface oxidation on welded frame joints so it makes me worried. Btw, 4runner is garage kept (somewhat heated) and is driven in Pittsburgh area.
Accumulator
Well-known member
ukie- See how this compares with Ron's reply. And note that I'm starting to think I need to add some kind of "don't try this at home, kids!" disclaimer because of how Ron Ketcham, who has a lot more experience especially with regard to how things "usually turn out with normal people involved", is often :soscared: about what has worked fine for me.
Anyhoo....this is something I did on other vehicles (including my oh-so ratty beater-Blazer, the frame of which was a royal mess)and will be doing on the Tahoe one of these days. Again, this has worked out super for me, and I do mean long-term (the Blazer's current owner says it's still fine). Here's how I do it:
-Clean with degreaser/steam/whatever
-Scrape/wire brush obvious rust that you can get to
-Treat obvious rust with Rust Bullet's Metal Blast (incredible stuff, much better than all the others of its type I've tried)
-Seal with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator or Rust Bullet or POR15 (not a big fan of the latter, and the Rust Encapsulator is the easiest)
-(optional) Paint with something durable
-(kinda optional, but I'd *absolutely*) do this) Coat areas that show with Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust
-Spray/treat electrical grounds/etc. with either ValuGard's rustproofing or Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector
-Spray mechanical stuff like spare tire retaining hardware with the Amsoil
You can do a pretty OK job if you merely clean it up and use the Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. No, it's not the "right way" to do it but it turns out mighty nice most of the time and yeah it stays that way pretty well. But note the disclaimers "most of the time" and "pretty well".
Gotta be careful do do a decent job applying this kind of stuff so you don't leave pockets/etc. that can retain moisture/salt/etc. Gotta keep it clean (just wash it) so you can keep track of how it's holding up, and touch up/etc. as needed (not very often IME). Be prepared to touch it up if your mechanic scrapes stuff up using a lift on the frame (I send pads along).
I really can't say enough good stuff about the Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. It's like a blend of undercoating/rustproofing and paint. I was confident enough in it to recommend the stuff to Brad B for use on his 4Runner, and he was just as satisfied as I thought he would be. It even works pretty well (read "awfully [darn] well!") when you do a crappy prep job. Easy as pie to touch up too, just spray or brush some more on.
Anyhoo....this is something I did on other vehicles (including my oh-so ratty beater-Blazer, the frame of which was a royal mess)and will be doing on the Tahoe one of these days. Again, this has worked out super for me, and I do mean long-term (the Blazer's current owner says it's still fine). Here's how I do it:
-Clean with degreaser/steam/whatever
-Scrape/wire brush obvious rust that you can get to
-Treat obvious rust with Rust Bullet's Metal Blast (incredible stuff, much better than all the others of its type I've tried)
-Seal with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator or Rust Bullet or POR15 (not a big fan of the latter, and the Rust Encapsulator is the easiest)
-(optional) Paint with something durable
-(kinda optional, but I'd *absolutely*) do this) Coat areas that show with Eastwood's Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust
-Spray/treat electrical grounds/etc. with either ValuGard's rustproofing or Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector
-Spray mechanical stuff like spare tire retaining hardware with the Amsoil
You can do a pretty OK job if you merely clean it up and use the Black Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. No, it's not the "right way" to do it but it turns out mighty nice most of the time and yeah it stays that way pretty well. But note the disclaimers "most of the time" and "pretty well".
Gotta be careful do do a decent job applying this kind of stuff so you don't leave pockets/etc. that can retain moisture/salt/etc. Gotta keep it clean (just wash it) so you can keep track of how it's holding up, and touch up/etc. as needed (not very often IME). Be prepared to touch it up if your mechanic scrapes stuff up using a lift on the frame (I send pads along).
I really can't say enough good stuff about the Eastwood Heavy Duty Anti-Rust. It's like a blend of undercoating/rustproofing and paint. I was confident enough in it to recommend the stuff to Brad B for use on his 4Runner, and he was just as satisfied as I thought he would be. It even works pretty well (read "awfully [darn] well!") when you do a crappy prep job. Easy as pie to touch up too, just spray or brush some more on.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Shortly before I retired, about a year, we were approached by the State of Kentucky's School Bus Maintance program regarding servere corrosion concerns they were having.
This corrosion was becoming very expensive, mostly due to the school districts being short of funds and the use of mag cloride on the roads.
We worked with them and developed a program for application of the rust inhibitor and undercoating for both older buses and new ones before they went into service.
AI produced a very instructive 4 color "how to manual" for the school bus industry, showing exactly how to do these various applications on the buses.
The company has now been attending many trade shows/educational of the bus industry to show how they can reduce or elimenate the concern.
Been a few years, but according to Tim, the program has been well received.
If you want one of those "how to manuals", just call Beth at 800-543-7156 for a free copy.
While it is directed at buses, the same application works for other vehicles, plus have her send you the new passenger car/van/SUV/van instruction manual.
May help you as you continue to do the right thing.
Grumpy
This corrosion was becoming very expensive, mostly due to the school districts being short of funds and the use of mag cloride on the roads.
We worked with them and developed a program for application of the rust inhibitor and undercoating for both older buses and new ones before they went into service.
AI produced a very instructive 4 color "how to manual" for the school bus industry, showing exactly how to do these various applications on the buses.
The company has now been attending many trade shows/educational of the bus industry to show how they can reduce or elimenate the concern.
Been a few years, but according to Tim, the program has been well received.
If you want one of those "how to manuals", just call Beth at 800-543-7156 for a free copy.
While it is directed at buses, the same application works for other vehicles, plus have her send you the new passenger car/van/SUV/van instruction manual.
May help you as you continue to do the right thing.
Grumpy
Accumulator
Well-known member
Public Service Announcement: Don't hesitate to call Beth at AI, she's great.
Gotta remember to ask for those the next time I talk with her...thanks for the tip.
Gotta remember to ask for those the next time I talk with her...thanks for the tip.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
Here we go, in the words of Storage War's Dave Hester---Yuuupppp!
Here's a link to an interesting experiment with different rust prevention products. Just something to read if you have extra time.
Accumulator
Well-known member
ukie- I'm pretty sure that's the comparison that got me interested in Rust Bullet. Good stuff but a whole lot more involved than some other approaches due to the need for two coats done the right way.