Router (wood, not computer) help

K

kompressornsc

New member
Okay, so I'm looking to buy a router. Need to make a few cabinet doors and such-nothing too complicated - basically some roundovers and rabbits ('50's style doors). There seem to be 3 types of routers: fixed, plunge and convertible. I know I want to have a fixed with a table, but it is worth it to go to a convertible? Not sure how much I would need a plunge, but was hoping for some advice if it was worth it.

And brands. I like Craftsman, Delta and PC- for tools. Any suggestions from experience? Would like to spend around $200 for the table & router and then figure out what bits I will need on top of that.

TIA
 
I just picked up a replacement for my first (cheap) router......I too did all the research, etc. I didnt *need* a plunge, I have no problem using a fixed base for hand-held work. But Amazon was having a sale, and Im a sucker for a good tool sale so I ended up with the DeWalt 618B3, which has *3* bases (fixed, plunge, and D-handle). I really like it so far, Ive done pretty much what you were expecting to do (rabbets and dadoes in my case). *Definitely* get a 1/2" collet. Thats why Im replacing my Craftsman already......I shoulda just sprung the extra $$$ to get 1/2" instead of 1/4" way back when.



The D-handle is a nice-to-have, but not a necessity, so you might want to look into a 2-base router. I know PC makes plenty of them. Check Amazon reviews, Google Groups (rec.woodworking is a good source) and also http://www.patwarner.com/ Lotta good hardware reviews and "what router should I buy" kinda stuff. His raves for the DeWalt is what got me looking at it, and I ended up with it (I was originally thinking Bosch or PC, but changed my mind).



BTW, one of the Craftsman 2-base routers is actually a Bosch in disguise. I believe it runs for 179 or 199 on their site, so you could get it from them or get the Bosch equivalent.



As far as a router table.........Ive been wanting one, and the best I could come up with is to use the new router to build one :) (good list of free plans here: http://www.freeww.com/routertables.html) All of the consumer-available ones Ive found (at any decent price point) are missing a lot of things that you can easily build in yourself. The biggest thing missing usually is dust collection. Routers create lots of dust, and I use MDF most of the time so the dust is 10-fold. Build a nice "box" router table with a dust collection port (or even just a port to hook a Shop Vac up to) and at least the dust wont be flying around the shop. The 2-base routers come in handy that way because you can leave one base in the router table permanently, and use the other for hand-held work.



Good luck!

-Chris
 
chris01i30 said:
...BTW, one of the Craftsman 2-base routers is actually a Bosch in disguise. I believe it runs for 179 or 199 on their site, so you could get it from them or get the Bosch equivalent....
Click to expand...
They look better in blue. ;)



I really love my Bosch routers. I chose the Bosch because I wanted the micro-adjustable depth feature. It's amazingly precise. Everything about the Bosch is precise.



I bought mine before they had the plunge base so I actually bought their separate plunge router. The two base kit is a really cost-effective option. (Not that I mind having two great routers.)



The Porter-Cable 690 is also a good unit with swappable bases and has a handle/plunge kit available at a good price. Another good thing about the Porter-Cable is that they are very popular in the wood world so there are lots of aftermarket accessories available for it.



Whatever you do, follow chris01i30's advice; avoid 1/4" routers and get at least a 1/2" unit. The beefier construction pays off in both strength and precision. You can always put a 1/4" collet in it if you ever need to use 1/4" bits. (Well, Festool's 1/4" router is really cool but you probably don't want to go there...)





PC.
 
Oh, and "taking the plunge" depends on the work you want to do. For roundovers and profiles you don't need it. There's obviously no point to it on a table. But it's mandatory for doing fluting, keyholes, pattern cutting or using all those great templates for stuff like European 32mm cabinetry.



If you're on a tight budget you can always get the plunge base later if your unit has swappable bases.





PC.
 
Both Makita and PC make a great kit with both afixed base and a punge base. I have the Makita and love it. Soft start and 2 1/4 HP! Amazon has them for like $199, either way you cann't go wrong. The only reason you would need a more powerful router is if you are doing rasied pannels all the time. And then you would mount it in a table anyway.
 
I sounds like you have not used a router before. (If you have, sorry for the story)



I have Bosch, Makita, Sears and used Dewalt and PC. (I used to work in a hardwood lumber mill and was/am a woodworker. I was because in Laredo, hardwoods are VERY expensive, and I was spoiled from having access to all that top quality lumber :grinno: ).



I favor my Bosch. IF you are going to do any amount of work, buy the higher HP and better brands. Get the larger collet as said above. Like any tool, you usually get what you pay for. The options of having both plunge and fixed bases is a real benefit. Examine the base and make sure it is solid and well finished. You can't believe the pain an out-of-round or poorly fabricated base can cause! :hairpull



Now, assuming you are not experienced with routers, fixed or plunge, routers can be difficult and dangerous if you are not accustomed to using them. They take PRACTICE to get a good clean cut with proper technique and cutting depth. Run the proper feed/rotation to grain direction and make multiple cuts for anything of any depth.

Spend some time on the internet investigating router techniques. And practice on scrap boards for your style of cut.



Never set it down while the bit is still coasting. Always unplug it before working on or adjusting the bit. Wear eye protection. Routers spit shavings and are very powerful. I think I have heard of more injurys from routers than most other tools, esp when mounted in tables. You can't really see the bit when it is at speed and they are completely unforgiving of the smallest mistake. A lot of people get hurt from table saws, but people 'know' they are dangerous so they take extra care. But a router seems like such a small cutting edge and often your fingers are in close proximity to the bit that you often slipup and WHAM!



However, in any case, spend the money to buy a HIGH quality carbide bit with quality bearings. This can save you countless hours sanding, and dollars in replacement stock from ruined/burned projects. The money spent here is well worth the costs. They should have some "heavy" carbide (don't fall for cheap thin carbide tools. They chip in no time and then you have nothing) Treat these like gold. They are if you are doing any amount of woodworking.



One last hint that you don't often see, Don't bottom the bit in the route collet. Many fist timers assume this is best. However, many bits have a fillet at the base and you won't get a true clamp on the shaft. Let it extend a bit and the bit will clamp up tight and not wander.
 
Thanks for the tips guys-now I'm more confused than ever. :D

I've been looking on-line and stuff, and it looks like I'll probably have to spend a bit more than I originally thought. But, I figure it's something I'll have for years, so a few extra bucks up front shouldn't be an issue. I also have a number of storm windows that I need to replace, so maybe I'll spend the money to get a good router and learn to make them myself. They're not too complicated (Prarie style house).

I haven't narrowed down a brand yet, but I know I want the 1/2" collet, convertible and at least 2 hp.

I have used a router a couple of times, and I know it's not as easy as Norm makes it look-figure I'll do a good number of practice pieces. And I know about the bits-Iv'e seen one bit for $40 and I've seen 20 bit kits for $40. I'll spring for the good stuff.
 
For decent priced decent quality bits, check out www.mlcswoodworking.com. The Katana bits are their best, but are pricey. Their standard bits are well worth the price, especially if you arent running a production routing line. Better than most stuff you can find at the big box stores.



-Chris
 
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