rotary vs PC???

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Dtail

New member
I've had my PC for about 1/2 a year now and thinking about moving up to a rotary. Will i get better results with a rotary than a PC with compounds and polishes? Everytime i use a compound or polish with my PC, I just couldn't get it to break down properly. How long do you guys usually work the product like SFP, or DACP with a PC? and on what speed? I've used SFP and still need to use SMR 2.0 because SFP still leaves my paint a little hazy especially under sunlight.
 
You will get better results with a rotary when using products with diminishing abrasives because they will do more work before they break down and they will break down even finer than when used with the PC. All of this will happen much quicker too.
I have had the same experience as you when using SFP and even SMR 2.0 ...
Today I use Poorboys SSR 1 to achieve an almost perfect, clear, wet, reflective finish ... even when using the PC ... Set it to max speed and work in a little SSR 1 ... you will not believe your eyes!
 
A rotary will take time getting use to. You need to understand your products that you are using. Using a PC, DACP / SFP should get use to after time, but it shouldnt leave your vehicle hazy, that if you aren't polishing multiple times. You should run 5 and up to fully break down.

I'm guessing your using to high abrasiveness or your not working it right. :dunno
 
A rotary will produce superior results when using abrasives. I tried every cutting pad imaginable with a PC and still couldn't get the abrasives to break down without spending and hour on a panel. Go for it and get the rotary. Keep your PC for finishing and glazes.
 
dtail: how fast you moving the pc? pressure?

at my speeds listed below, i go at a snails pace in the already know pattern ||=//\\=||. And holding the butt end of the PC letting just the weight of the PC do the work. Mind you my face is some 3 inches from where im working to see progress (where it applies: hood panels etc...)

car: audi
color: black
problem: etched waterspots (very bad DEEP etching)

used #83 (dacp) at 3 spread - 5 5.5 to break down.
results: worked but not fast enough for me (bout 10 mins per panel)

went to #84 (cpc) at 3 spread - 4 4.5 to break down.
results: obviously faster (3 -5 mins per panel) i wouldn't chance going any faster.

followed by #9 (sfp) at 3 spread - 4 4.5 to break down.
results: got rid of all hazing caused by #83 -#84

all done with pc and yellow.

if you dont work it too well i noticed you get a gummy type substance/buildup on the outer edge of pads. Working the product longer got rid of most but not all of it. Keep spare toothbrush to scrape pad every so often.

also i noticed if i work it too fast (5 6) i get ALOT of unwanted hazing.


Hope this helps:)
 
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I just got a rotary and as a long time PC user let me tell you - it takes some practice..it's like night and day- I still won't go above 1200 and use only megs yellow and tan pads :) - I've only had it a few weeks and used it a few times but I am getting more confident, till I try it on a verticle surface :lol (have not tried that yet)
 
I have found that with the rotary, the leveling products almost disappear into the paint. With an orbital they tended to stay wet a lot longer, and required extra effort to remove the products. The rotary will also be able to correct problems that an orbital will not. In my opinion, a rotary is not as scary as people make it out to be. Sure it is heavier and more powerful, however, if you use the right products and some common sense things will be just fine.
 
I agree with brwill2004, use good common sense with a rotary. I've used the one I bought for about two weeks now. There was a learning curve, but the benefits are great. With a rotary I think it is extremely important to start with the least aggressive compound to do the job. I also agree with alot of people here that the rotary is not that scary.
 
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