Rotary Speed Tips Chart

G

gdumond

New member
Was wondering if anyone has seen or come up with a comprehensive speed setting chart for Rotary Polishing?



I am looking for speed settings to correct everything from bird drop staining, light scratch removal, swirl removal, to speed settings for removing wet sanding scratches.



I know it's a bit of a loaded question because a comprehensive chart could include info on how to address single stage versus 2 stage paint and speed settings for foam versus synthetic wool, and maybe even product and pads etc.



Would appreciate any links or feedback. I'm sure there are a lot of other folks especially those that are considering moving up to the world of high speed rotary buffing that could use this info.
 
There is no "comprehensive speed chart" for using a rotary. Just start off slow until you get comfortable with the machine. Use the recommended RPM of what the polish you are using calls for.



eg: 1z Intensive polish (1000rpm), M105 (1500-2000rpm, Optimum Polish II (1000-1400rpm...etc.
 
Maybe I am just being too technical. I am surprised that no one has come up with a speed range for different situations. With all the technical stuff I have previewed on this forum nobody has thought of this?
 
gdumond said:
Maybe I am just being too technical. I am surprised that no one has come up with a speed range for different situations. With all the technical stuff I have previewed on this forum nobody has thought of this?
Click to expand...



Just too many variables to say "use this speed or use that speed". Generally you use higher speeds for defect removal and lower speeds to finish out. However, some compounds don't need high speeds (Meguiars #105) and some finishing polishes do (3M Ultrafina). Just use the speed that does the job you want.
 
As Scott said way too many variable is an understatement.



Even with a perfect chart to tell you how will not make it easier for you to step up to a rotary, it takes practice, trial/error and more practice. The best thing you could do is too hire a pro who is experienced with a rotary to give you hands on training with your particular car and your particular swirls/damage.



Besides the different types/kinds of defects, there's also different types of clear coats, I'm not talking about SS paint vs clear coat but that's one for sure, I'm talking about soft paint, hard paint, super duper soft paint, diamond hard paint and then on top of that are the different kinds of damages such as deep scratches, light scratches, bird drops, sanding marks, water etching, light swirls, heavy swirls, hazing, buffer trails/holograms and all of those damages can be deep, super deep or shallow in the paint.....and that all makes a huge difference on how to remove the damage.



And if that's not enough most people have slightly different techniques when polishing out a car so what might work well for one might now work so well for another.



I could go on and on but I hope you're getting the picture. There's just no way to say if you use this pad, this polish at a set rpm the damage will come out....



I'm sure someone could come up with a very generic chart that might address light swirls on certain kinds of paints but even so what polishes would be used and what pads and such?? and who wants to be responsible when something gets screwed up??



Just way too much to think about.



Josh
 
JoshVette said:
As Scott said way too many variable is an understatement.



Even with a perfect chart to tell you how will not make it easier for you to step up to a rotary, it takes practice, trial/error and more practice. The best thing you could do is too hire a pro who is experienced with a rotary to give you hands on training with your particular car and your particular swirls/damage.



Besides the different types/kinds of defects, there's also different types of clear coats, I'm not talking about SS paint vs clear coat but that's one for sure, I'm talking about soft paint, hard paint, super duper soft paint, diamond hard paint and then on top of that are the different kinds of damages such as deep scratches, light scratches, bird drops, sanding marks, water etching, light swirls, heavy swirls, hazing, buffer trails/holograms and all of those damages can be deep, super deep or shallow in the paint.....and that all makes a huge difference on how to remove the damage.



And if that's not enough most people have slightly different techniques when polishing out a car so what might work well for one might now work so well for another.



I could go on and on but I hope you're getting the picture. There's just no way to say if you use this pad, this polish at a set rpm the damage will come out....



I'm sure someone could come up with a very generic chart that might address light swirls on certain kinds of paints but even so what polishes would be used and what pads and such?? and who wants to be responsible when something gets screwed up??



Just way too much to think about.



Josh
Click to expand...



Your points are well taken guys. Like you said way too many variables! I can really respect those that take up the task of remedying the many challenges you outlined. It's what separates the men from the boys or the amateurs from the pros. The Rotary buffer is not a toy and nothing can substitute experience through trial and error.



Thanks again for the wisdom and the feedback!
 
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