Rotary polishing?

ZL1Mark

ZL1Mark

Allergic to One Product
I think I've become pretty efficient with a DA, so now I'm gonna explore with a rotary. My friend Kevin Brown was kind enough to ship me a makita rotary to borrow for a few days. :bigups :rockon

When using a rotary and a wool pad to remove swirls, do rotary buffer swirls look different than the swirls you're trying to remove? Basically, how do you tell the difference between the defects to removed and the rotary swirls you've instilled?
 
The swirls a rotary with wool install are very fine. Generally much finer than anything that you would be trying to remove. You should be able to see a distinct difference between the two.
 
Using a rotary and wool pad to remove swirls? Are you talking about the swirls caused by improper washing or a tunnel wash or things like that, or are you talking swirls from a hack detailer that dont know how to use a machine? Rotary + wool + compound = swirl marks. Like Garry said, its easy to tell the difference between the two. Halogens and a Brinkman light come in handy for rotary use.
 
Yes, I'm talking about removing defects(swirls, scratches, etc..).

Thanks guys. I have holgens and a brinkmann.

The hack job rotary buffer swirls, don't they look a lot worse than just "fine" swirls?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Yes, I'm talking about removing defects(swirls, scratches, etc..).

Thanks guys. I have holgens and a brinkmann.

The hack job rotary buffer swirls, don't they look a lot worse than just "fine" swirls?
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They should be the same thing or similar. If they were installed by a rotary and a wool pad just like how you would install them why would they be any different. Mark, what are you getting at?

Wool pads leave behind very fine swirls. Unless the wool pad has debris caught in it. In that case they will be very bad swirls.
 
The main differnce between a pro using wool and a hack using wool is a hack is normally in a hurry or just dont know any better, and goes straight to wax after compound.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, guys. I've seen hack jobs with tons of holograms, but on top of the holograms were VERY bad swirls. I suppose those were swirls not from the buffing, rather self induced swirls.
 
Another step such as using 85rd after compounding will certainly help remove any super fine swirl marks.....I use 85rd everytime I do paint corrections.
 
detailchick said:
Are you going to buy another rotary Mark?:)
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Of coarse Mark is going to buy a rotary now too to many people would be disappointed if he didn't . I was thinking of starting a pool on how many machines he buys and sells before his happy with his choice .:yourrock Mark !!! Anyone care to join in for the pool
 
Seems like we're playing a game of musical polishers! Kevin has my Griot's, Mark has Kevin's Makita, etc...

07 z-oh-6 said:
When using a rotary and a wool pad to remove swirls, do rotary buffer swirls look different than the swirls you're trying to remove? Basically, how do you tell the difference between the defects to removed and the rotary swirls you've instilled?
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You should be able to see a difference between the two defects. If done correctly, the defects left by a wool pad are much finer than normal swirls and scratches.

Here's an example:

The Charger I did a while back was attacked by the owner's cat. I had to spot sand this area with 1500 grit discs to level the finish. To test out the difference between my Brinkmann and Fenix TK45, I aggressively polished out the scratches using a W4003 wool pad and old school M105. As one can see, it looks pretty bad, but the defects are at least consistent.

holo.jpg


Here is the finish after one pass using the Meg's DA Microfiber cutting pad and D300:

corrected.jpg


It's every so slightly hazy, but easily corrected.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I think I've become pretty efficient with a DA, so now I'm gonna explore with a rotary. My friend Kevin Brown was kind enough to ship me a makita rotary to borrow for a few days. :bigups :rockon
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I'm in about the same boat as you and recently purchased a FLEX PE14 Rotary Buffer. This is one sweet rotary machine!! As stated above, wool will leave a slight swirl/haze finish. I have been following wool with M105 and an 6" LC orange CCS. Then I finish it down with M205 and an LC white followed by Menz PO85/LC Black CCS at about 600 RPM for final jeweling. As with the DA, RPM (vs. DA OPM), amount of hand pressure, arm speed and type of pad and product are very important. Unlike the DA, the rotary will take some effort to master. Practice & correct discipline and you will be proficient in no time.

Take Care: As you probably know, keep it moving, tape all edges & stay away from any high body line areas.
 
Mark,
Im not sure I would use wool pads to remove swirls in the first place.

Serious defects, hammered paint, really scratched paint - yes, wool and Rotary Power would be my first choice, but for just swirls that came from washing, or even another Rotary, I would be using foam and a compound on a Rotary.

My best advice to anyone using a Rotary for the first time - keep it moving.. You dont need blazing speeds with most compound products sold today.

Wool, wool blends, etc., all cut very, very, fast, and faster speeds with an agressive compound, (Meguiars 105, Optimum, pressure, and you might be moving through microns of material quickly.

Another good reason to have a paint thickness meter - to know what you have to start with, and then after compounding, see how much you removed..

I only use wool on a Rotary on extremely hammered, scratched, swirled from the car wash a million times, type paintwork.

I DO always use Rotary Power on every Detail though, and used correctly with care, don't have a whole lot of swirling going on anyway, so the last stage with a DA if necessary is really just to further improve the gloss.

Good luck with your Rotary !
Dan F
 
mark, i would get a rotary i guarantee that you will come to a certain paint that will need something with more power then a da...also will run into paint defects that will need a rotary. they are not hard at all to get the hang of..heck im a beginner with a rotary(used one a few times so i had some training from my father who was a detailer for 20 years or so...hes a oldschool guy who only uses wool however) for me with the rotary i bought(harbor freight makita clone) i can leave no holograms after i do a few steps. with a wool pad you will always have holograms thats just the nature of wool. foam pads is what will remove those holograms as long as you use the correct product/pad combo..see you have it made you already have a da just in case after using the rotary and have swirls you can correct them with not much effort..me i dont have the money right at this moment to get a da so i had to learn how to make the rotary work..i still have a good bit of learning to do but my results so far have been fantastic. just be aware foam pads vs wool pads the foam creates more heat so you will want to adjust technique. heck my dad cant even use foam pads he says they hop too much but its funny because now im giving him tips on how to use the foams on the rotary. this probably dont make much sense but im not a writer lol. all in all i would get a rotary with a 5" BP and some 6.5" pads (im using 8-9") and i really need to get some smaller pads for the smaller curved areas...good luck with the rotary and you will find while there heavier and more bulky then the PC they correct fast and can leave a higher gloss...i also found from my use that my sm arnold pads while being good pads you have less surface contact, so even though its a 8-9" pad the surface contact is about 6.5" as its a curved edge pad which works good if your "edging" but found that smaller areas the pad can hit stuff and deteriorate the foam on the edge...really want to get me some totally flat pads as the flat pad that came with polisher is easier to control then the curved edge pads...if all else see if anyone from the forums is in your area and see if they have a rotary you could use to see how well you like it...again good luck with your rotary research and hope to see you add one to your arsenal!.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I think I've become pretty efficient with a DA, so now I'm gonna explore with a rotary. My friend Kevin Brown was kind enough to ship me a makita rotary to borrow for a few days. :bigups :rockon

When using a rotary and a wool pad to remove swirls, do rotary buffer swirls look different than the swirls you're trying to remove? Basically, how do you tell the difference between the defects to removed and the rotary swirls you've instilled?
Click to expand...

Wow Mark, are you getting serious about detailing?:D
 
Wow, thanks for all the information everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm glad Kevin Brown allowed me to borrow his rotary before I go out a buy one! :laughing:

I REALLY like the Meg's MF system, but with the slow arm movement, pressure needed, and to constantly clean the pads, it takes more time than I would like to tackle serious defects. This is where the rotary could possibly step in, to shorten buffing time.

Speaking of the Makita rotRY KB is sending me, can someone break down the RPM's, or are the listed on the speed dial?

Thanks!
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Speaking of the Makita rotRY KB is sending me, can someone break down the RPM's, or are the listed on the speed dial?
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There is a speed chart on the unit right above the dial selector. I have gotten so used to the drone of the machine that I hardly ever look at it anymore... It's usually within the 1200-1500 (speed 3) range.
 
Dasher said:
There is a speed chart on the unit right above the dial selector. I have gotten so used to the drone of the machine that I hardly ever look at it anymore... It's usually within the 1200-1500 (speed 3) range.
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:bigups
 
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